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you can do EEEEET!
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when i can get NGK's for less than $10.


What makes your product better than NGK?
 

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I want to know if these plugs come in various heat ranges for my supercharged engine. I now require one heat range colder for my engine. If there is something structurally different about them that takes away the worry of pre-detonation from a spark plug that gets too hot, I would consider them.
 

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I want to know if these plugs come in various heat ranges for my supercharged engine. I now require one heat range colder for my engine. If there is something structurally different about them that takes away the worry of pre-detonation from a spark plug that gets too hot, I would consider them.
I know you wont believe me but you are better off running copper plugs and changing them out every 3-4k over the fancy crap. FI cars do much better with coppers, Iridium and Platinum plugs are better off for stock or mild NA cars for longevity. You're also better off changing plugs on a FI car more frequently because you'll be forced to check them at closer intervals.

I picked up a few hp switching from Iridiums to Copper, I'm back to the Iridiums because the only coppers I can get in my heat range and application are non resistor.

$100+ for a set of plugs is like 10-12 sets of coppers.
 

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I never said I didn't believe you, I ran coppers throughout the whole tuning process (NGK ZFR7F-11 to be specific) because they were cheap and I needed so many of them replaced. I got burned on my first set of $45 plugs (denso iridiums) when it was too early in the tuning process and Honda Bob put them in and subsequently fouled them in like 10 minutes.

But I had ordered another set well before the dyno day and when it came time to dyno tune we were nearing the end of our gains we could make until it was time to check the plugs and we ended up just slapping in the iridiums I had there and sure enough, it made 1 more horsepower than the coppers (which still looked in great condition I might add). So I figured after the tuning session I may as well keep them in, and I still have them in to this day. I am at the 4,000 mile mark I believe, since the tuning session and it still runs hard.

However, I'm always pulling for that last bit of horsepower and I believe in the concept behind these pulse plugs, but I just wanted them to explain if their plugs are conceptually the same as a regular spark plug when put into a FI environment concerning heat ranges and everything. If they could prove better, I would order a set just to test them out (and probably dyno test them all for you). But I won't destroy my engine (potentionally) if the heat ranges aren't compatible.
 

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I'm white
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^1 more hp?

Really? I mean I don't do anything and dyno numbers fluctuate more.

If you really are just doing it for the numbers...well you're driving the wrong car.
 

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Now before you all jump on the bandwagon, I know about the fluctuations of the dyno and how one run doesn't necessarily equal the other, even if all parameters stay the same. But if I had the plugs, why not use them? And if I saw a gain, regardless of how small, why yank it out and put in copper plugs right away?

The point is they didn't lose horsepower. And the point is, they didn't fail because they were too brittle. I could leave them in for however long it would take to convince somebody that they are okay to run in FI, but that is pointless right now. I probably won't buy these plugs again due to cost, but if somebody has them or is contemplating on buying them for their own reasons, I have just given you proof that they're okay to run.

However, these pulsestar plugs would be of some interest because the name of the game is extracting every last horsepower and shedding every last pound. I also want the best fuel economy I can get too, and nobody has given any straight answers about what these plugs can really do in our cars.
 

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Well if you were running the NGK Iridiums I'd say leave them be but the Denso's have failed for a bunch of FI people. If they fail do you really want parts of them falling into your motor? Some ceramic or the electrode scoring the piston wall is going to mean a tear down, why take that chance?
 

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But if I had the plugs, why not use them? And if I saw a gain, regardless of how small, why yank it out and put in copper plugs right away?
Well mainly because you would be spending alot more just for nothing. You say you realize the differences but yet you still believe in that 1 hp gain. Kind of hypocritical don't you think? Again, if you want every last hp, you went the wrong route with your FI build.

However, these pulsestar plugs would be of some interest because the name of the game is extracting every last horsepower and shedding every last pound. I also want the best fuel economy I can get too, and nobody has given any straight answers about what these plugs can really do in our cars.
Shedding every last pound??? You put more with those door sills than the weight difference in between plugs.... Your logic is stupid. If that was the name of the game, you have failed again.

Here's a straight answer, you won't notice the difference between the sparkplugs. I guarantee you won't improve 1/4 times or fuel economy or less weight.
 

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Hey Petern, once again you come bumbling in here, mouth wide open trying to spew a bunch of stuff but you've missed the target even with your shotgun blast, buddy.

First off, what's your deal with saying my logic is hypocritical? I already had the iridium spark plugs, so I'm gonna use them. Secondly, I saw a difference on the dyno, so the plugs stayed in. If they didn't show loss, no harm in keeping them in. I haven't even seen any problems in the ceramics or electrode or any part of it anyway. Secondly, you accuse me of if I wanted every last HP, I chose the wrong route, hell no I didn't. I chose the route I wanted because it's what I wanted. I made that clear months ago in my build thread. Now it's my goal to get every last HP out of this setup, not too hard to understand there. Just like N/A guys wanna go get every last HP out of their setups too, why not just go FI?

What the **** is your deal with the door sills? Get off it already. I reduce weight where it matters and I can add where I want. The door sills are nothing to this car, but I'm sure you bringing it up made you feel cooler for saying it. I bet the weight of the sound deadening/tar I'll scrape out of my trunk this weekend will equal or exceed the weight of the door sills.

And last of all, I did all I could at the current moment to get back some fuel economy, which I've been recording as low as 17.2mpg. With the exhaust finally fixed, the new wheels without spacers wobbling around and a new alignment, I've noticed substantially better, but now it's time to go that little extra mile. If spark plugs can do it, I'm there. I can see a sparkplug helping on that where other "miracle" inventions are just a bogus claim, like the tornado and the magnetized clamps that go around your fuel line.

All I wanted was some information on what Pulsestar could say about gains with their sparkplugs or what anybody else thought about them that had them. But I forgot that dumbass opinions rule the day around here.
 

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1. Spending the money on these won't make themselves up anytime soon for the extra gain in hp and gas mileage. You were willing to put in these rather than more economical coppers. But then you say why yank these out and put in coppers???

2. I don't go around saying i want the lowest possible weight and then adding things that don't help. Plus, you know that you asked for it making that thread about your door sills. Sorry you worded it incorrectly and it hit off wrong.

3. Again, I don't go around with a FI setup and really worry about fuel economy. Sure everyone wants some better fuel economy, but this really isn't the way around it. 17.2 isn't too bad but then again a 400 hp 5.7l vette gets better gas mileage.

4. Go ahead and make fun of my z3 fenders. It could be because they kind of come stock on the car...
 

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I know he has Z3 fenders, it's all in my dry sense of humor... I would probably want to do a similar joke if he had a lamborgini and I were to make a stab at his lambo doors and so on. It's not really an insult, but you picked the quote out of my information line and I thought it would only be proper to keep the tradition alive.

Weight loss on the vehicle will continue, I think the next biggest chunk of weight coming up next that might make a difference is replacing the sunroof with a carbon fiber sunroof panel.

I also think the biggest thing I could do for weight elimination would be to get rid of all the Type SH tranny assembly and swap in a regular base with an LSD. Followed by removal of the balance shafts all in one fell swoop.
 

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Well some of us explained what makes more sense both in terms of reliability, cost effectiveness, and power and you discarded it because it doesn't fit with what you assume to be true. I'll bet every dyno has a margin of error over 1% meaning that you didn't prove any hp loss or gain with your current plugs. There how however been proven failures of those plugs causing damage to lower ends which you choose to ignore.

How cant you see why that would entice some of us to get on you?
 

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Little late to the party and it seems like the thread has gotten off topic a bit...


I'm the rep here for Pulstar. If you have any questions shoot them my way. I am working on getting you all a promo code.

As far as heat ranges go, we cover the following. If the engine is running any plug within that range then Pulstar is available. If you're needing a colder plug still we will have a racing temperature BE1c out later this year.

NGK: 5-7
Denso: 22-16
Champion: 7-12
Bosch: 5-8
 

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for hondas i wouldnt bother with these.... but for my STi i will install them when its time to drop my engine so i can change my plugs
 
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