Honda Prelude Online banner

Status
Not open for further replies.
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Okay, there is a GB going on now for the kit, and it comes with the following items..

High Carbon Cast-Steel Turbo Manifold
Mandrel Bent downpipe w/ Closed Loop Wastegate Discharge
Bead-Rolled intercooler Piping
Turbocharger Intake System
All necessary Hardware and Fitting
T4/T3 Hybrid Turbocharger
Turbonetics Deltagate External Wastegate
Large Front-Mount intercoooler
HKS Racing Bypass Valve
K&N Air Filter
3D Map Additional Injector Controller
440cc Lucas fuel Injectors
2 Bar MAP Sensor
MSD Boost Timing Master
or R-Ideal Head Gasket

Now I would get the R-Ideal head gasket over the MSD BTM(I have the Jacob's electronic ICE PAK already).

I also would most likely tell them to keep the injectors and opt for a set of RC ones(which ones I am not sure though- any suggestions?)

What about that HKS BOV- is there a better one?

Anything else(trying to keep in mind that this has to be essentially the same "bolt-on" no cutting/major rewelding)? Thanks!

Also, what gauges and timers are good?

------------------
"If ya SMELLLLLLLLL what the SPOCK is cookin!"

"Live Long & Prosper and God save the Lude!"

2000 base 5-speed(red)
*AEM CAI; *DC Sports 4-2-1 SS; *Apexi RS Cat-back; *RC Eng. T.B.(64 mm); *Apexi V-AFC; *Unorthodox Racing Pulley Set; Jacobs Elect. ICE-PAK; *Neuspeed Front STB; *DC Sports RLTB; *ST Rear Sway; Tein HA's; Ingalls F & #R(x 2) Camber kits; *P.R. VS-04 17"'s; *Dunlop SP 9000's; *ACT clutch; *JUN Flywheel; Quaife LSD; *JDM Fogs; *OEM kit & *spoiler, Neuspeed SS adapter; *Matrix pedals; MOMO shift knob+boot, *clear sides and fronts, Ultra-Lite tach; A/F and Oil Press gauges; JDM side markers; Indiglo emblems

* = On/Installed/Done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Okay, speaking of that R-Ideal header gasket, I found out it will be $300 minimum to pull the head in order to install it(but it seems like a much better overall option in terms of both safety and performance over boost retardation). So would it be a good idea to do any type of head work or part strengthening? I know that PortFlow makes good springs & retainers, but I don't know if this will help for Turbo applications. If it does, then I might as well with the head off(kind of like installing a fly and clutch at the same time). Anyone?

Also, will my clutch be enough(I have the ACT HD PP with the Street disc)? It has like 3,000 miles max on it.

------------------
"If ya SMELLLLLLLLL what the SPOCK is cookin!"

"Live Long & Prosper and God save the Lude!"

2000 base 5-speed(red)
*AEM CAI; *DC Sports 4-2-1 SS; *Apexi RS Cat-back; *RC Eng. T.B.(64 mm); *Apexi V-AFC; *Unorthodox Racing Pulley Set; Jacobs Elect. ICE-PAK; *Neuspeed Front STB; *DC Sports RLTB; *ST Rear Sway; Tein HA's; Ingalls F & #R(x 2) Camber kits; *P.R. VS-04 17"'s; *Dunlop SP 9000's; *ACT clutch; *JUN Flywheel; Quaife LSD; *JDM Fogs; *OEM kit & *spoiler, Neuspeed SS adapter; *Matrix pedals; MOMO shift knob+boot, *clear sides and fronts, Ultra-Lite tach; A/F and Oil Press gauges; JDM side markers; Indiglo emblems

* = On/Installed/Done
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Well, that guy selling them on the GBC isn't offering the Tial wastegates with his buy, only the Delta's for $3500 shipped. So Tial is good huh?

Also, (I know I'm asking a lot), even with the system in "open dump" setup, would my emissions be any different than "closed"? I mean, with it in the open setup does ALL the exhaust go out there and none out the cat>exhaust or what(I don't think we in WI have to worry about CARB stuff)?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
trust me and get the J&S and stay w/ your stock compression....

my engine hasn't blown up yet. proper install is KEY. and knowing your limits. 7psi is your limit w/ the ultra j&s and everything running correctly.

dont' do the head gasket unless you got the $

Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Okay, but what if you have the $$ for the head gasket, and feel it is worth the extra $300 install charge to insure better power and safety, then wouldn't it be a good investment, I mean, that J&S costs $550 anyway, and that's about the same as the header gasket + new PortFlow's.

Speaking of which, I thought the kit produces up to 9 psi. Why is yours only 7?

Now, what does it FEEL like to drive with the Fmax? Is there a lot of lag, when do you feel the power most, can it plaster you to the back of your seat off-the-line, or does it come on later in the powerband? Thanks, never been in a Turbo Lude(only a VR-4, and man did that ***** PULL off the line!)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
I read your other post in the other thread Tim on the J&S, good info thanks, i'm not goin turbo now so i haven't researched it much but I don't think that JRSC will ever come out hehe. So how much boost can the stock internals handle?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
906 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I appreciate all your help! Can you give me a description of the FMax driving experience(if you already didn't answer my latest ?'s in the HA.net post). Also, where did you buy it, how much. Did you install it- if not about how many hours? Also, was there a lot of tuning to do after install(like fuel corrections and stuff)? I have the Apex VAFC, which I hope will help out if I go turbo. Do I need to upgrade my fuel pump, or get an adjustable fuel pressure regulator(would they help?) What about fuel rails?

Did you use the injectors that came in the kit? I was planning on ordering from RC Engineering, since they are the best in the bus. for that sort of work, but if the ones in the kit work, might as well use them.

Also, I have the ICE PAK ignition, and was planning on getting their version of the BTM module with knock sensor and rev limiter too just to be on the safe side(I really would like to stay away from retardation).

Thanks for any help you can offer me, and if nothing much, at least tell me how much fun it is, and how it makes the acceleration different that NA(seat of pants description is fine, don't need numbers)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
i run the drag kit so i don't use the additional injectors. The drag kit uses an fpr for fuel issues, the fmax uses the injectors. You won't need an fpr for your kit.

my install took me a long time, me and my mechanic spent HOURS on the install and since the car was at a shop we had a much easier time. I hear the fitment of f=max is pretty good and for an experienced person it should take a weekend or two. The hardest part is the oil pan. take your time on that and don't screw it up
. Also get one of the efi systems check valves so you don't throw an ecu code.

Get a boost and a/f gauge or egt gauge. A fuel pressure gauge never hurt either. i use a boost and a/f gauge, but plan on getting a fuel pressure gauge.


If you get the head gasket to lower your compression you can of course raise the boost a little.

on stock compression of 10:1, which is really high for Forced Induction already, 7psi is about the safe limit for a daily driver.

The wastegate spring regulates the boost. My tial wastegate has a .3 bar spring (~4psi) and my boost controller ups it to 7psi if i want to.

Our high compression motors usually have some detonation at 7psi w/ no timing devices. the J&S IS NOT JUST A timing reducer, it will SAVE YOUR ENGINE if things go wrong. Mind you its not idiot proof. The j&S listens for knock and will retard when it hears it up to 20degrees. Your btm can't react to knock. The ultra j&s combines two great things.....listening for knock, and reducing timing before knock can be heard, or passive and active safety respectively.

You see, the head gasket is a great idea, but i think it gives ppl the mentality that "oh i can boost higher" and well, high boost for prolonged periods of time will damge something. F-max claims 10psi on a stock bottom end w/ head gasket, but i bet it won't last that long. You could try, but don't complain when something gives out.

its all relative to tuning of course. There are ppl that can run massive amounts of boost (10psi+) on FULL STAND ALONE dfi's. With our stock ecu's its not gonna happen.


hope this helps....even dirty lude has his j&s on at 4psi..heh heh....

sell your btm and get $200 for it, and get the J&S ultra. The feeling of 7psi @ 3500rpms is awesome. the noise, combined w/ the massive hp and torque rush are something to be felt. All traction lost in 1st gear, and you can feel the tires slip at the top of 2nd. o yea, get a new clutch, my stock ones dead


the jsrc's are less prone to blowing up because ppl can't change their boost on the fly.

sometimes i think my motor is invincible and think that it can take a quick burst of 15psi
, but nope, gotta control myself, heh heh.


Tim

p.s. a new fuel pump would help you out a lot since you're asking for a lot of fuel at 7psi. I and many others use the bosch/endyn modified fuel pump. it's great.

happy boosting!


[This message has been edited by Pure Lude (edited February 13, 2001).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
yuo can check out some pics of my setup at www.rspec.net/purelude . i'm always happy to help you guys out and sometimes my typing sounds down right mean
but i only mean the best. Most of my opinions come from other turbo owners, and my own personal experiences, that have turned these opinions into stone
. Dang, never thought i'd be talking like that at the age of 18. sheesh.

Tim


[This message has been edited by Pure Lude (edited February 13, 2001).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
How about upgrading the turbo to the ball bearing one? As for the installation of the FMAX kit, was it necessary to mess around with the oil pan? I know you have to drill into the oil pan for the Drag kit, but I'm not too sure about the RevHard and the FMAX one. Hm... isn't $3500 still a bit pricey for a FMAX kit? As for the ecu throwing codes, I heard that the check valve that the Drag comes with just melts away.
Pure Lude, did you ever have any problem with the car overheating? Did it ever make your rev limiter go down? That's what happened to somebody I talked to with the drag kit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
the turbo gets oil from a tapped oil sending source on the engine near the oil filter, and must send the oil back to the pan via a drilled hole. The pan must be removed and the connection welded together to ensure no leakage.

My turbo's running great and i have had no problems after the install. Just started it up and been happy since. The only problem i have had since is that i didn't tighten all conenctions and so a line popped off, but nothing bad happened. And my stock clutch is dying. hehe. My car hasn't over heated that i know of. THat reminds me.....

get some red line water wetter too. And you may want to try to wire both fans to stay on. haven't done this yet, but i think i will soon.

as for the checkvalve, its a billet machined piece that is away from most of the heat, so it shouldn't melt away. that would really suck because there are so many rubber vacuum hoses near the throttle body that could go too. If you look at my pics, the spark plug valve cover is painted in NON heat resistant automotive paint. It still looks good the day i painted it.


Tim
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
23 Posts
BTW, Spocko, weren't all out JRSC?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
697 Posts
Hey Pure Lude, I saw your pictures, you are running with stock ignition, do you have any problem with that turbo setup? Is it necessary to upgrade the stock lude ignition?

------------------
-- No Tune, No Life --
Michael Li
-- 1997 Prelude 5spd--
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
951 Posts
Spocko, many would consider the wastegate the first upgrade. What you could do is go with the deltagate to start with, then if you see boost creep you should replace it immediately.

BTW, boost creep is when the wastegate cannot hold the boost at the level you've set it at (usually at high rpm's). For instance, you set it at 7psi and see it run up to 11psi at 7k rpm's. Obviously this is bad. Nothing else is necessarily wrong with the fmax kit, although I don't like the manifold design. If the piping design of the Drag weren't so bad it'd be a better kit.

[This message has been edited by baked (edited February 14, 2001).]
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,530 Posts
I have a few friends with the revhard and drag kits and a couple of them have already seen boost creep with the DELTAGATE wastegate so I would honestly upgrade the wastegate (to Tial) as soon as you buy the kit.

At importparts.com they will upgrade the wastegate automatically to a Tial for a couple hundred bucks more on the DRAG kit. But it seems like you are leaning towards the Fmax. I think if you do upgrade to Tial though you have to get a different manifold since the flanges are different on the wastegates.

I am obviously no expert though


------------------
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,136 Posts
spocko,

importparts will match the group buy price for the f-max kit. i recommend them , they are a great company to work with, and ben (the guy that handles most sales) is also great w/ customer service. He'll treat you right, like he did me and a lot of others.


mike --
my stock ignition is fine on 7psi. Some ppl say i need it, others say i don't. I guess its a matter of opinion and taste. Kinda like if magnecore wires are better than stock wires.

Tim
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top