[Tola]

Can someone try to explain what it sounds like when the engine is pinging? I've never heard an engine ping before.

My car has been running pretty crappy. It lags alot. It sounds and feels like you're trying to accelerate from a dead stop in any gear other than 1st. Like a low rumbling sound. When the RPM is higher, I still get the low rumbling sound, except it's a little louder. Could my car possibly be knocking or pinging??

Would running very rich cause my car to lag or sound like this? My mpg is pretty bad. I only get 19-20 mpg, never had anything better than that. I get alot of carbon buildup on my exhaust.

 

[overdose]

I heard some hardcore knocking in my h23 when I had three spun bearings (YES THE DAMN THING STILL RAN WHEN IT WAS TAKEN OUT AND DID RUN FOR 300 MILES LIKE THIS!), but the knocking was my crankshaft making imperfect circles around the bearings, it sounded like a bassy tapping inside the lower end of my motor that resonated underneath the car at around 2600-2800rpms, while driving/under load it sounded like someone hitting a hollow wooden door pretty hard over and over and over, but for your problem it's probably somethin simple, need more information, what engine, how many miles, when was the last time you changed plugs/wires/cap/rotor/fuel filter, check engine light? misfiring?

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On the prowl for some booty and blowin VTEC dust in the direction of the busters

 

[KQ]

you might need to do a valve adjustment

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KQ
98 Pearl White SH
92 Baby Blue S (sold)

 

[overdose]

heh I don't think even the most out of adjustment valves could ever yield that type of performance/mpg loss, maybe you have some BROKEN valves, now that would be a problem, just post more info we'll troubleshoot it, valve adjustments just synchronize the valve movement so they clack less and so you decrease your chances of one going to far out and breaking, why doesn't honda use valvetrains that don't require adjustment anyway?

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On the prowl for some booty and blowin VTEC dust in the direction of the busters

 

[Pure Lude]

1. Large metallic pinging (very fast)
or
2. a coin in a can that you shake fast
or
3. something similar to that.

not all detonation is audible of course.

 

[Tola]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by overdose:
heh I don't think even the most out of adjustment valves could ever yield that type of performance/mpg loss, maybe you have some BROKEN valves, now that would be a problem, just post more info we'll troubleshoot it, valve adjustments just synchronize the valve movement so they clack less and so you decrease your chances of one going to far out and breaking, why doesn't honda use valvetrains that don't require adjustment anyway?

</font>

Thanks for the help so far. I thought it may be my valve too, but it's weird that sometimes it runs and pulls perfectly fine then 1 minute later it would lag like hell, then it would go back to running fine. If it was my valves, I would think that it would ALWAYS lag.

I've changed my fuel filter, plugs, wires, cap, rotor, PCV valve, oil, took off the EGR (it was tripping the code). My car is a 94 VTEC with 111k miles.

I don't think I have any broken valves because I've tried adjusting my valves before and it was fine. I didn't have the tappet tool and a box end wrench didnt work too well for me, so I just the cover back on and ordered the tool yesterday.

Someone suggested that it might be the O2 sensor. If it was any sensors, wouldn't it trip a code? Could the O2 sensor be dirty and cause the ECU run rich? I've used a bottle of FI cleaner, shouldn't that already clean out the sensor? If I take off the actual sensor, what can I use to clean it?

Also, someone else suggested that it may be the throttle posistioning sensor (this might explain why it feels like I'm letting off the throttle when I'm actually flooring it). Has anyone taken off this sensor? It looks like a PITA to take off and it looks like it's stuck onto the intake manifold. Thanks.

 

[marcucci]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Tola:
took off the EGR (it was tripping the code).
</font>

If this is still off, it may be the problem. Still have a check engine light? You're likely running in limp mode.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">

Someone suggested that it might be the O2 sensor. If it was any sensors, wouldn't it trip a code? Could the O2 sensor be dirty and cause the ECU run rich? I've used a bottle of FI cleaner, shouldn't that already clean out the sensor? If I take off the actual sensor, what can I use to clean it?
</font>

The computer only knows if the sensor is dead, or reporting something very unreasonable. You could very well have a fouled sensor causing you to run rich and the computer never know or care. I don't think generally speaking you can clean the O2 and improve things- just buy a new one. Shouldn't be more than $50. I suspect the real prob, though, is the EGR. I'd also suggest if you didn't use NGK plugs, you do. Most neighborhood shops will give you the wrong gap on theplug (unless you gapped them yourself).

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">
Also, someone else suggested that it may be the throttle posistioning sensor (this might explain why it feels like I'm letting off the throttle when I'm actually flooring it). Has anyone taken off this sensor? It looks like a PITA to take off and it looks like it's stuck onto the intake manifold. Thanks.</font>

It doesn't come off, it's permanently attached the to the TB. I've NEVER seen one of these fail on a Honda. I highly doubt it's the problem. If you have a digital multimeter you can test it. Otherwise you can't and I suggest you don't even bother with it.

If your EGR is still disconnected and throwing a code, you need to fix that. Put it back to stock or defeat the lift valve, but either way, you need to do something.

 

[Tola]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
If your EGR is still disconnected and throwing a code, you need to fix that. Put it back to stock or defeat the lift valve, but either way, you need to do something. </font>

It is not my EGR, with it off, the car still lags occasionally. I tried cleaning it and putting it back on, still lags occasionally, but the CEL isn't on anymore. I feel absolutely no difference in "limp mode"

I think it's my oxygen sensor more than anything else. Where exactly are the O2 sensors? I'm also gonna go ahead a change the plugs to a set of NGK, I'm running on those $2 Bosch now. The previous owner was running on Bosch and I liked it also, so I got another set. I'm going to take a look at the O2 sensor first. Thanks for the help.

 

[Joon525]

I have to reply to your email when I get home......I didn't forget Tola

 

[Tola]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joon525:
I have to reply to your email when I get home......I didn't forget Tola</font>

Nevermind Joon. It's alright, I found the answer I was looking for. Thanks anyways.

 

[Dr. James]

Here is my suggestions. When the car starts to hesitate and surge, when all other things are working, I.E. no CE lights, you have fresh plugs, fuel filter, cap, rotor button, wires, etc. Then I would certianly look into getting a new 02 Sensor as well as a new Cat Convertor. When they get plugged they can cause a surge and lunge feeling in the car. If the car blows excessive amounts of unburned Hydrocarbons, this is also a good indicator of the Cat and O2 sensor being fouled. I had the same problem in my first 94 Vtec. I spent about 4 months trying to figure out the problem. Turned out to be the above. The O2 sensor can still be fouled and not trip the CE light. Get it from Honda, don't buy a autoparts store unit, they are generally more expensive and don't last as long. For example, the local AutoZone sells the O2 for our cars for 210 bucks, the Honda dealer sells them for 138 bucks. You can pick it up online at www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for cheaper. And as for the Cat, get either a universal replacement or a high flow unit. The stock Honda one is like 200-300 bucks. This should cure your problems.