[ThatPreludeGuy]

OK so the dealer had a auto-tensioner in stock, however the TSB lists a different part# so they have to wait for that to come in. Next they changed the fuel filter that my other dealership tried to tell me some crap about having bent fuel lines. They heard the creak in the windsheild but couldn't find it for anything. He's (service manager) is going to have them take down the headliner, recheck the sunroof, and do the headliner "fix" when I bring it back for the tensioner.

Now for the metal he says it sounds like a "normal" occurance to him and for me to take Marucci's advice and try to strain some of the metal or whatever it is out of the oil. He put it on the RO that this was a concern during warranty so if something happens further down the road I'll be covered with it.

Not an awful trip to the dealer if you ask me except I have to go back which sucks.

Oh he also said I have part of a crossmember hitting the transmission due to being lowered? Anyone know what part could be touching my trans?

 

[marcucci]

On ours there is a crossmember that *bolts* to the engine as support. I don't think the tow hook piece comes close enough to hit, and the only other piece would be the subframe (your alignment would be all whacked if that were it). It wouldn't be the first time, though, that someone's bottomed hard enough to damage something.

As for the metal bits, I DO suggest running car normally and then at the next change *carefully* screening with a large piece of cheesecloth nylon mesh, pantyhose, or something. Actual cheesecloth may tear under the force of the oil, so I'd suggest something more durable (small enough to catch the bits). Be prepared to make a big mess. You also may want to do it at the dealer or in front of him, otherwise it may be hard to get them to believe you.

Good luck on that one... I hope it's all in your mind : )

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
On ours there is a crossmember that *bolts* to the engine as support. I don't think the tow hook piece comes close enough to hit</font>

Well I did whack a raised manhole a while back and literally RIPPED the front central jacking point OFF the car. I guess I could've bent the cross member pretty good when that happened.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
As for the metal bits, I DO suggest running car normally and then at the next change *carefully* screening with a large piece of cheesecloth nylon mesh, pantyhose, or something. Actual cheesecloth may tear under the force of the oil, so I'd suggest something more durable (small enough to catch the bits). Be prepared to make a big mess. You also may want to do it at the dealer or in front of him, otherwise it may be hard to get them to believe you.

Good luck on that one... I hope it's all in your mind

</font>

Well I hope so too! The dealer seemed pretty cool with it and after I had about 20 blow ups with them and the regional office when I hydro-locked my motor he doesn't need me breathing fire at him again. I want to check out the rubbing under the car and see what that's about though. I think the panty hose thing would probably work best for straining the oil for metal.

I'll keep everyone posted!

 

[ImagePree]

g'luck man!!

i have the spoon magnetic drain plug in right now, and the last time i changed my, there were some bits of metal stuck to it... *shrugs* i will check more carefully at the next oil change, which shouldn't be too far away.

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by imagepree:
g'luck man!!

i have the spoon magnetic drain plug in right now, and the last time i changed my, there were some bits of metal stuck to it... *shrugs* i will check more carefully at the next oil change, which shouldn't be too far away.</font>

See, thanks I'd liek to see what you pull off yours compared to what I was finding. My dealer said he would expect to find stuff clear to 60-70k miles. I think that was smoke he was blowing my arse!

 

[marcucci]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by THATPRELUDEGUY:
Well I did whack a raised manhole a while back and literally RIPPED the front central jacking point OFF the car. I guess I could've bent the cross member pretty good when that happened.
</font>

Uhhh... things are little more clear, now. You also hydrolocked? Christ... you've probably f'd something up good, especially if you impacted the manhole like that.

I would screen the oil- if that turns up more metal, I'd either sell the car ASAP or if for some reason you really want to keep it, pull and tear down the engine and rebuild.

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
Uhhh... things are little more clear, now. You also hydrolocked? Christ... you've probably f'd something up good, especially if you impacted the manhole like that.

I would screen the oil- if that turns up more metal, I'd either sell the car ASAP or if for some reason you really want to keep it, pull and tear down the engine and rebuild. </font>

No I have a NEW motor from the hydrolock inccidnet. My car has 34K on it but the motor only has 23K. The raised manhole was something I hit when I first had my TEIN's in, I was MUCH lower then I should've been and basically the manhole took the tow hook part off the cross-member and dented the factory downpipe somewhat. I looked hi and lo and couldn't find any other damage caused by that. However it could've pushed that cross-member up a bit to knock on the trans.

 

[marcucci]

And no other "events" like that one? What have your oil changes been at? What oil and filters do you use?

I'm at a loss to explain what could be happening. Did they rebuild the engine, replace with new, or replace with a rebuilt?

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
And no other "events" like that one? What have your oil changes been at? What oil and filters do you use?

I'm at a loss to explain what could be happening. Did they rebuild the engine, replace with new, or replace with a rebuilt? </font>

No, no other events like either at all. The oil is changed at ever 3k at the VERY most 4k but that's once in a blue moon I go that far. I run Mobil 1 10W30 and OEM Honda filers since the first oil change.

As for the motor is was a brand new head and a brand new short block. The motors don't come to the states assembled so that's as close to new as I could get.

When I hydrolocked the motor I did it good! There wasn't a major part that wasn't wiped out. I cracked the block, bent two rods, broke one piston and ruined two others. The valves where bent to the point where they trashed the cams as well as F-ing up the castings of the head themselves. It was a mess!!!

 

[marcucci]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by THATPRELUDEGUY:
- snip -When I hydrolocked the motor I did it good! There wasn't a major part that wasn't wiped out. I cracked the block, bent two rods, broke one piston and ruined two others. The valves where bent to the point where they trashed the cams as well as F-ing up the castings of the head themselves. It was a mess!!!</font>

Sweeeeeet! I mean, uh, oh, sorry to hear that. Seriously, I don't see how the oil or changes could have affected anything. I also HIGHLY doubt there was anything in the engine when it was shipped over. The only problem I can see would have been in the installation or final assembly. Not sure even what that would be, all the major potential problems that would involve bearings or pistons or rings should have already been taken care of.

No odd noises or anything? Sounds fine?runs fine?

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by marcucci:
Sweeeeeet! I mean, uh, oh, sorry to hear that. Seriously, I don't see how the oil or changes could have affected anything. I also HIGHLY doubt there was anything in the engine when it was shipped over. The only problem I can see would have been in the installation or final assembly. Not sure even what that would be, all the major potential problems that would involve bearings or pistons or rings should have already been taken care of.

No odd noises or anything? Sounds fine?runs fine?</font>

Yeah I wish I brought my digital camera the day they showed me some of the parts...OHHHH BOYYYYYY!!!

Anyway the car runs fine and the only odd noise was the timing belt auto tensioner. It pulls strong doesn't make any weird noises at idle or under load..etc....

I'll keep and eye on it and pray it's fine

 

[98SS]

THATPRELUDEGUY,
found your thread.
Well I have to get the tensioner replaced.
Since you said there are two part # for this tensioner. Can you check for me to see what's the new Part number and what's the old part number? I don't want to make a mistake and put the old one in. If you have the TSB# for this that would be great as well. Please help me out. Thanks.

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

I don't have the TSB but I'm sure someone else might have it. As for the service record I already looked for it for Joon525 when he had his done but I never found it.

 

[bgod]

which dealer is this, paramus honda, dc honda in tenafly??

 

[ThatPreludeGuy]

which dealer is this, paramus honda, dc honda in tenafly??

I actually take my car to Sussex Honda for service. I trust their work and I bought my car there. It's a long ride but I don't really like the other two dealers.

 

[LuDeS]

I actually take my car to Sussex Honda for service. I trust their work and I bought my car there. It's a long ride but I don't really like the other two dealers.

paramus honda is garbage... they are shady...

I trust Mahwah honda and Wayne honda... great customer service... :bigthumb:

 

[Joon525]

I don't have the TSB but I'm sure someone else might have it. As for the service record I already looked for it for Joon525 when he had his done but I never found it.

Yeah, some help you are! (jk)

98SS:I have my receipt at home but you don't need me to get it for you to find the part numbers. I got them from running a search on this site.