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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Ultimate H22a Swap Faq

H22a Swap!!! Here you swappers/wanabee swappers go.

Tools, you need a complete set of metric sockets, Swivel socket, 4inch extension, 10 inch extension. A set of metric monkey wrenches.Needle nose pliers ,Skrewdrivers, Flathead and Standard, also a nice thick flathead for prying. Prybar can help. Hammer, rubber mallet can help. Torque Wrench. Jack Stands, Engine Hoist, Jack, Drain Pan. Some paper towels.

You may want to Get a Spray Degreaser and spray it on the engine before you work on it, hose it off.
Any bolt you remove try to put it back in the hole it came out of so you dont forget where it goes later.
Get some disposable rubber gloves, they will keep your hands decent.

*1*Start off by removing the Battery.(2 treminals)
*2*Remove the bolt that mounts the Battery cables to the battery tray.(one Bolt)
*3*Remove battery Tray. (4 bolts on top(RED)2 underneth(copper)
*4*Remove the ground wire on the transmission(one Bolt, black wire)
*5*Remove the 2 wires on the starter, one is bolt and the other is a crimp connector.
*6*Remove the starter(2 bolts)
*7*Remove Intake(1 skrew on top)
*8*Remove Airbox(2 bolts, one in back one in front)
*9*Remove Intake Secondaries(not sure i dont have one)
*10*Disconnect wire harness(Disconnect them from the mount first, then pull apart)(there are like 6 different connectors)
*11*Disconnect the Black wire from the Under hood Fuse box.(1 skrew/bolt)
*12*Remove connectors on all visible sensors.( you might wana label them so its easier to put back on, They only go on one way, unless you get really creative)Remove the connectors on your injectors, just use a skrewdriver to unhook the clips.
*13*Remove the Ground Wire on the block, it's right under the Vtec pressure switch.(One bolt)
**Remove the 3 hydrolic lines on the transmission( you need to remove the cotter pins, try not to ruin them or your gona need a trip to the auto parts store. There will be 2 washers on both, dont lose them!!! The 3rd is just a bolt, dont press the clutch when the 3rd is disconnected caus you will lose your Clutch Fluid)(The clutch will need to be bleeded when you put the new engine in.
*14*Remove the speed sensor, (1 bolt, it is hidden under the Throttle Body, there is a sensor connected to it)
*15*Bleed the Fuel system then remove the fuel line from the fuel Rail. (One bolt, dont lose the washers.)
*16*Remove Vaccume lines on Throttle body, leave them connected to anything that is not directly connected to the engine.( You may wana Label them so you can return them to the correct places, if there connected wrong your car will not idle correctly) (Just use a pair of needle nose pliers and gently rotate the lines back in fourth till they become loose)
*17*Remove the power steering pump, do NOT remove the Fluid hoses.(2 bolts, set it to the side, but do not disconnect it completely)
*18*Disconnect the Alternator Wires(One Green Connector, one nut)
*19*Remove the Alternator (2 bolts)
*20*Disconnect the 2 Connectors on the 2 sides of the Radiator(bottom on both sides)
*21*Jack up your car and put it on jack stands.( put the jack stands on the spot behind the wheels where the lip sticks out)
*22*Drain your Coolant into your drain pan( Turn the knob under the radiator, Remove the cap to decrease pressure, Make sure the car is cold)
*23*Drain your Engine OIL(Bolt on the bottom of the oil pan)
*24*Drain your transmission Fluid(bolt on ther bottom of your transmission, use the extention with no socket)
*25*Remove all coolant hoses( more coolant WILL come out so beware)(use a pair of pliers and squeese the clamps, be carefull that they dont snap on you)ouch!! haha
*26*Remove all hoses connected to the engine.
*27*Disconnect the O2 sensor on the downpipe(on the manifold of a SOHC)(monkey Wrench)
*28*Dont forget the brake line that connects to the Throttle Body.
*29*There will be a sensor under the car, (Powersteering) Dont forget it.
*29 1/2* Remove the 3 nuts on your downpipe where it connects with your header/manifold.
*30*There is a coolant line on the back of the engine, you need to be under the car to get it.(Dont Forget it)
Now the messy part
*31*Remove the tires
*32*Remove the Big ASS bolt on the end of the Cvs, your prolly going to have to buy a socket/wrench to fit it.
*33*Pull the bolt on the bottom of the A Arm holding the Shock on.(you need 2 17mm sockets, or a socket and a Wrench)
*34*Remove the one Bolt on the shock. Pull that Y off completely, you will need to compress the shock a little.(Good luck with Stock Suspension, i have not messed with the stock so it may be more complicated/dangerous)
*35*Remove the front sway bars(2 bolts on each A arm.)
*36*Remove the bolt on the back of the A arm(the whole thing will drop down)
*37*Remove the CV from the transmission(Its a pain, dont pull it, you need to pry it out)
*38*Connect the lift to the engine, Lift it till the chain is tight.
*39*Remove all of the motor mounts, ALL bolts, its much easier and you need to remove the anyway to swap the mounts. There are 4 mounts, on on each side. The rear one is a pain You can disconnect it from the frame and pull it off completely later.
*40*Start to pull the engine slowly, the transmission will be a pain to angle out. make sure you dont forget to disconnect anything.

More to come, Corrections needed. Additions Welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
Parts swapping.!!
*1* When both engines are out you need a to swap a few parts.
First of all you need to swap the Fuel rail for your usdm one. You can use the rail from the VTEC, SI or S engines. They are all the same. There are 3 nuts you have to remove. You will prolly need a swivel to get to them. Be carefull caus fuel will come out.(SO DON’T SMOKE WHILE YOU DO THIS!!!) Use the jdm injectors because they are bigger then any of the US ones. You can Send them out to be blueprinted but none of mine have been a problem. I don’t know about 5th gen ludes but with the 4th gen you can use your stock resistor box. It is in the driver side of the back of your engine bay.
*2*You can use the jdm distributor. All you have to do is remove the internal COIL, there are 2 wire connected to the COIL. The one with 2 connectors you keep and just tie the extra connector off. Make sure its not grounding out or you will fry your distrib.(I learnt that the hard way) Remove the second wire. If your carefull you can take a wire from an extra harness and use the same crimp connector. You need to connect that wire to the open connector, punch a hole in the rubber seal, and wire it into the open spot on the wire harness. Connect the extrenal coil and a external coil cap to the distrib and your set.
*3* You are supposed to swap the crank pully. The belts do not match up between the USDM and JDM. The US has one more row on the alt and AC. I didn’t want to swap the Crank pully this time because its actually balanced to the crank and I have had bad experiences with my rod bearings. The Belts still fit and should not have a problem.(don’t take my advice on that tho)
*4*Connect your Flywheel /clutch and pressure plate. YOU need to use the correct Torque specs or you will break off your bolts. Connect your transmission. Doing it yourself I suggest you use your engine lift to assist you lining it up. There are a few bolts on the transmission. Really easy. Disconnect them and pull it apart. There is a Flywheel shield that has 3 bolts on it. You need to remove these to remove your transmission.
*5* Exaust, you need to figure out what your gona do with your exaust. If you have a S or an SI you exaust will NOT bolt up. If you have a vtec downpipe you can weld you S or SI flange to yout Vtec downpipe and your troubles are over. Or you can buy an aftermarket exaust that bolts up.
*6* There is a water temp Sensor at the front of your block. It is not on the JDM. So swap it from whatever engine you have. Easy 2 bolts and a rubber gasket.
*7* Timing belt. I didn’t do it. SO I don’t know!
*8* Add your extra wires to your harness. Vtec wire, Vtec pressure switch, Knock sensors

More to come, Corrections needed. Additions Welcome
 

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Correction, Second Post, First Line... "so" probably should be "to"

;) Looking good.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
yea, you may wana do a write up about how to swap the distrib sensors here. Caus i dont know anything about that.

Hey if you swapped the Ecu would it fix that problem?
With using the JDM distrib?
 

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X01VTEC said:


woo hoo, gimme my valve cover...

not all 4th gens are the same us with the damn 96 makes it difficult if youre putting in a older motor
I hate to sound like a complete jack ass, but how much different is the 96 from the 95 & below??? I thought I had it all figured out, but if the latter 4th gens are really that much different, I'm going back to Honda school. I'm only asking for when my stock 96 H23 blows after I go turbo (b/c we all know that it will go boom...Hondas like to do that, no matter what, under boost).

J
 

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[SUB[EX] said:
the Ecu would it fix that problem?
With using the JDM distrib?
im going to be using the jdm ecu from the same year as my jdm motor, and i guess you can use everything as it came with the jdm, but youre still going to have to modify the harness to use the sensors in the distributor and/or ignition coil, if youre putting this in a 96
 

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SLICK96 said:


I hate to sound like a complete jack ass, but how much different is the 96 from the 95 & below??? I thought I had it all figured out, but if the latter 4th gens are really that much different, I'm going back to Honda school. I'm only asking for when my stock 96 H23 blows after I go turbo (b/c we all know that it will go boom...Hondas like to do that, no matter what, under boost).

J
just the wiring mostly and a couple sensors, that part of it is more like the 5th gen i believe
 

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Discussion Starter #13
That makes sense.
ok, so its just the wiring harness that you have to change.

What else is wired differently between the 95 and 96?
I
think im going to start building wiring harness's. So if anyone needs one just email me.
 

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[SUB[EX] said:
That makes sense.
ok, so its just the wiring harness that you have to change.

What else is wired differently between the 95 and 96?
I
think im going to start building wiring harness's. So if anyone needs one just email me.
I just might have to buy one from you in a few months. I know that doesn't help you now, but I'll definately look you up when I need one.

J
 

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[SUB[EX] said:
where are the sensors in the distributor?
All i see is 3(or was it 4) magnets and a shaft.
there are just 3, there is just one sensor in the obdII distributor


i just got off work so im about to head to to try and finish my baby tonight, or atleast get the motor in so all i have to do tomorrow is put in the fluids... when i get back ill do a short write up on the wiring for the sensors. sunday i could probably make a diagram and post it
 

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[SUB[EX] said:
That makes sense.
ok, so its just the wiring harness that you have to change.

What else is wired differently between the 95 and 96?
I
think im going to start building wiring harness's. So if anyone needs one just email me.

the 95-96 is different as far as i can tell by just the colors of wires and the fact that the 2 sensors at the crank in the 96 are in the distributor on earlier models.

also there is a second coolant sensor on the 96, the earlier models may have this but the JDM does not, so i just used mine off my old motor
 

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Discussion Starter #18
*6* There is a water temp Sensor at the front of your block. It is not on the JDM. So swap it from whatever engine you have. Easy 2 bolts and a rubber gasket

yea i got that one. I am really confused with these sensors, what do they look like?
 

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Dude, even w/ stock rims, your car looks DOPE w/ that body kit... and I HATE body kits... maybe it's about that time...

J
 

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[SUB[EX] said:
[Byea i got that one. I am really confused with these sensors, what do they look like? [/B]
if youre talking about the sensors in the distributor, they kinda look like small boxes, i think they are magnets.

on the obdII cars the sesors at the crank also look like magnets but are small and round like a dime. they go behind the timing gear. this gear is different from the obdI gear.
 
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