turn signals fuse?
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Do you have a manual or a HELMS? Refer to that. Or IM Ludatic.
you could try fuse #13 in the dash, but that fuse protects the "switch" so i'm not sure if that's your problem
there's also #39 under the hood, but it's a relay specifically for ur turn signal/hazards
what did you do recently that would cause them to go out?
there's also #39 under the hood, but it's a relay specifically for ur turn signal/hazards
what did you do recently that would cause them to go out?
Ludatic, there's another relay for them under the hood? I didn't see any mention of it in the Helms (only the under-dash relay), but I'll take a look.
bingker - could you describe more precisely what's happening with yours, and what you've tried?
My turn signals also aren't working - and I'm extremely frustrated & currently out of ideas on what to try.
The low-down . . . .
Blinkers went hyper-fast two or three times (like a bulb was out) before they stopped working entirely. Hazards still work, and the bulbs are good. I've inspected the relevant under-dash wiring harnesses, replaced the under-dash turn-signal/hazard relay, and replaced the turn-signal combination switch.
Still not working. Any ideas? I'm extremely tired of pissing people off & causing near-accidents. And I've really got to get them working in order to pass inspection this month.
bingker - could you describe more precisely what's happening with yours, and what you've tried?
My turn signals also aren't working - and I'm extremely frustrated & currently out of ideas on what to try.
The low-down . . . .
Blinkers went hyper-fast two or three times (like a bulb was out) before they stopped working entirely. Hazards still work, and the bulbs are good. I've inspected the relevant under-dash wiring harnesses, replaced the under-dash turn-signal/hazard relay, and replaced the turn-signal combination switch.
Still not working. Any ideas? I'm extremely tired of pissing people off & causing near-accidents. And I've really got to get them working in order to pass inspection this month.
Yup in section 23, page 42 in the helms, it's fuse/relay #39, 10A, Turn signal/Hazard relay
under the hood.
give that a try maybe
edit: looking at the diagram in the helms, it looks as though it's just a 10a fuse. there's a relay under the dash, but the one under the hood is a fuse, so that should be an easy replacement :bigthumb: hopefully that solves the problem
under the hood.
give that a try maybe
edit: looking at the diagram in the helms, it looks as though it's just a 10a fuse. there's a relay under the dash, but the one under the hood is a fuse, so that should be an easy replacement :bigthumb: hopefully that solves the problem
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Only other part I can see in the wiring diagram is the turn signal light diode. That + combination switch + relay + bulbs + wiring is the entire circuit from fuse box to ground. Have you verified that you get voltage at the appropriate relay pin when you hit the turn signal?Daemione said:
Relay connector:
1 2 3
4 5 6
Pin 1 should be battery voltage (minus 1 diode drop) when you have the right signal on. Pin 5 should be hot with left signal on. Pin 3 is hot at all times and pin 4 is ground (check these to verify correct orientation with my diagram). Don't forget to have the ignition on before you check.
I blew a 10Amp hazard fuse under the hood when I wired the sidemarkers straight to the turn signals. Instead, now I have a pair of relays (one per side) that make it work.
The only problem is now my blinkers blink about twice as fast. (clickclickclickclick instead of click---click---click---click). Not sure why.
Also, I think I need another pair of relays because right now my blinkers only blink when I turn on the sidemarkers. (they are using the sidemarker power)
The only problem is now my blinkers blink about twice as fast. (clickclickclickclick instead of click---click---click---click). Not sure why.
Also, I think I need another pair of relays because right now my blinkers only blink when I turn on the sidemarkers. (they are using the sidemarker power)
Huh. Yeah - check it all out & let me know what you find. I'm still stumped. Although it's become less of a priority for me until I can actually get the car running again (in the middle of a timing belt swap).
I spoke briefly to a mechanic who seemed to know what he was talking about - he asked if I had checked the "flashers" . . . . not really sure what he meant by it. He said it's something different than the relay, fuses, & bulbs (since those are all fine in my case). I have yet to consult Dr. Helms about it's whereabouts.
I spoke briefly to a mechanic who seemed to know what he was talking about - he asked if I had checked the "flashers" . . . . not really sure what he meant by it. He said it's something different than the relay, fuses, & bulbs (since those are all fine in my case). I have yet to consult Dr. Helms about it's whereabouts.
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Helms Service Manual shows the diode as being integral to the switch but the Helms Electrical Troubleshooting Manual shows it as a separate component & I'm pretty sure the Service Manual is wrong in this case.
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The wire circled red should be hot (from under-dash fuse 13) when the ignition is at ON or START. The wire is green with red stripe. It goes straight to the diode which I am 99% sure is the item circled white. It is wrapped up with the wiring. The other end of the diode comes out with a red wire (no stripe) that should go to the combination light switch.
Troubleshooting: The connector for the combination light switch should have only one wire that is red with no stripe. That wire should be hot when the ignition is ON. If not, check the wire circled red above with the ignition ON. If there is voltage on the green/red wire but not on the red wire, then the diode is bad and you aren't getting voltage to the turn signal switch.
Hope this helps.
The wire circled red should be hot (from under-dash fuse 13) when the ignition is at ON or START. The wire is green with red stripe. It goes straight to the diode which I am 99% sure is the item circled white. It is wrapped up with the wiring. The other end of the diode comes out with a red wire (no stripe) that should go to the combination light switch.
Troubleshooting: The connector for the combination light switch should have only one wire that is red with no stripe. That wire should be hot when the ignition is ON. If not, check the wire circled red above with the ignition ON. If there is voltage on the green/red wire but not on the red wire, then the diode is bad and you aren't getting voltage to the turn signal switch.
Hope this helps.
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^^ That would be my guess. Those diagrams are sure difficult to be sure about sometimes (at least for me). Be sure the diode is really your problem first of course. If you do the troubleshooting I listed earlier and it appears to be the diode, as a final check you could take out the diode & put a jumper wire where it was and make sure your turn signals work then. Don't leave it that way though because the diode provides isolation between the hazard light circuit (hot at all times) and the fuse 13 circuit (hot with ignition ON or START). You'd have the clock turning on (as well as your brake light and oil light if the car was off) everytime you turned on the hazards, if the turn signal was also switched on. And possibly other badness.
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After pondering through dinner (BBQ hamburgers, mmmmmm) about what could cause the diode to possibly go bad, I feel I should add one more thing. Honda probably didn't use a high-current capacity diode since all that wire needs to do is energize the flasher coil (milliamps of current) and high-power diodes are expensive. IF that is the case, then any short circuit after the diode would cause the diode to burn out long before the 15 amps needed to blow fuse 13. So if your diode does turn out to be bad, it may possibly have been burned out from a short circuit somewhere. If your hazards work OK, then the only place I can see that a short could still exist would be on the red wire connecting the diode to the combination light switch. So check that wire for any continuity to ground before you put a new diode in there. Since you replaced the switch, I wouldn't expect any problems there.
Well, that was it . . . .
It appears I'm a victim of shoddy wiring on the alarm install/uninstall (alarm that the original owner put in crapped out so I had someone else take it out for me).
Looks like they were looking for an ignition source & tapped into that wire at first, then found a better one afterwards or something - anyway, the half-ass splice job had broken off inside the yards of electrical tape they used to cover it all up.
Unfortunately, it looks like the diode is fried as well, which leads me to believe they frigged it up & then spliced it direct to get around it (without telling me).
Anyway, good to have this stupid problem figured out. Does anyone know what that part consists of when you buy it? Is it just the fuse-like insert, or the entire plastic housing wired up to splice in? Hopefully the latter - the original wire broke off too close to the housing, so I can't reuse it. I suppose I can solder directly to the fuse, but . . . .
Thanks for your help, crash.
It appears I'm a victim of shoddy wiring on the alarm install/uninstall (alarm that the original owner put in crapped out so I had someone else take it out for me).
Looks like they were looking for an ignition source & tapped into that wire at first, then found a better one afterwards or something - anyway, the half-ass splice job had broken off inside the yards of electrical tape they used to cover it all up.
Unfortunately, it looks like the diode is fried as well, which leads me to believe they frigged it up & then spliced it direct to get around it (without telling me).
Anyway, good to have this stupid problem figured out. Does anyone know what that part consists of when you buy it? Is it just the fuse-like insert, or the entire plastic housing wired up to splice in? Hopefully the latter - the original wire broke off too close to the housing, so I can't reuse it. I suppose I can solder directly to the fuse, but . . . .
Thanks for your help, crash.
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