[H22Apowered]

I have 70,000 miles right now. What should you do when switching to Mobil 1? Are you supossed to flush the engine and get out any crud and grime that builds up from convential oil deposits? What are the things needed to be done when going from normal oil --> synthetic?


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95 Prelude VTEC

 

[spite]

I think it's a bit late to switch. It's recommended to switch to synthetic very early in your car's life - anywhere between 6k and 15k miles.

The deposits by the dino oil on your engine now actually seal it from leaking. If you switch now, those deposits will quickly clean out and your engine will leak and burn oil like there's no tomorrow :/

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[H22Apowered]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by spite:
I think it's a bit late to switch. It's recommended to switch to synthetic very early in your car's life - anywhere between 6k and 15k miles.

The deposits by the dino oil on your engine now actually seal it from leaking. If you switch now, those deposits will quickly clean out and your engine will leak and burn oil like there's no tomorrow :/

</font>

That actually makes sense. But the people on honda-tech I asked didn't mention it. I'll see what they have to say also.

What is the best convential oil to use? Anyone else have anything to add too?

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95 Prelude VTEC

 

[spite]

I think most brand-name conventional oils are pretty much the same.

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[2kLuder]

I was planning to change on my next visit. 30,000. Too late?? :Sad:

 

[spite]

30k is stretching it... you can try but don't be surprised if you have to switch back to dino oil.

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[Gabe]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by spite:
30k is stretching it... you can try but don't be surprised if you have to switch back to dino oil.
</font>

I don't know about that. The problem is that conventional oil leaves deposits, like spite said, that starve some parts (valve seals, etc.) of oil and they dry out. When synthetic oil is used it cleans out these deposits and sometimes if the seals are dried out enough they can leak. But it ususally takes a long time for these seals to get to the point where they leak oil if you switch.

Many people I have talked to on the net say they have switched after 100K and do not leak. One of my friends switched at 70K on his 96 Si and never leaked. Both of you should be fine. I switched at 34K and have never had a problem. The oil level on my dipstick never changes.

Gabe

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97 Prelude
see it here:Hondaprelude.com

 

[spite]

Man, my 'lude burns oil quite a bit... then again I VTEC quite a bit.

But my friend's '99 Civic EX with 30k kilometers was spewing out oil like there's no tomorrow when he switched.

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[Gabe]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by spite:
Man, my 'lude burns oil quite a bit... then again I VTEC quite a bit.
</font>

I hit VTEC at least once a day and usually a lot more than that. No oil problems whatsoever. There has to be something else wrong with your friends EX if it's loosing that much oil.

Gabe

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97 Prelude
see it here:Hondaprelude.com

 

[71dsp]

I just bought a 90 Integra with 119k miles. I just put in the new Mobil 1 synthetic blend, and I haven't had any problems. It's only been 300 or so miles, but so far, no leaks. I probably won't use 100% synthetic because of the cost, but the synthetic blend is only $2.30 a quart. If you're worried about 100% synthetics, try the Mobil 1 synthetic blend.

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

 

[spite]

Yup, I kinda figure there's something wrong with it. He only gets 3-400km on a tank of gas too. Honda keeps denying there's anything wrong - I think he's going to demand arbitration.

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[H22Apowered]

ok so if there ends up being leaking problems from the switch, what parts will actually leak and can it be easily resolved?

And how did you guys flush out your engine or if you haven't done it but still know how, well how do you do it?
Thanks

btw this should be FAQ'd sometime

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95 Prelude VTEC

 

[nmehta211]

Just started synthetic at 58k, driven 1000 miles and no problems with leaking or anything.

But it is sad to see that I spent 26 bucks on an oil change that I did myself. oh well, at least it is top quality.

Neel

 

[not rice]

i switched to synthetic at 67k. im now at 76k and ive had no problems...so imo i wouldnt worry about it, H22A.

later

 

[Bror Jace]

If the car has been properly maintained (regular oil changes) you should be perfectly safe switching to a synthetic at 70K miles. It's engines that have been abused and/or have high mileage (100-120K+) that you have to worry about. Even then, it's only a CHANCE they might leak. Synthetic oils have come along way in preventing leaks in the last 10+ years.

Leaks, however rare, usually occur around the pan, main seals, etc ...

**NEVER** use an engine flush. These things are almost guaranteed engine-killers. Many places don't even sell these anymore.

I don't recommend ANY of the synthetic blends on the market. They usually have only 10-15% synthetic in them ... at 50% of the price of synthetic.

Your oil consumption should go down noticeably if you switch from dead-dino juice to synthetic oil.

--- Bror Jace

 

[H22Apowered]

Bror Jace: what do you think of this way of "flushing" the engine, it is a quote from another thread..?

"There are two non standard engine flushes that most peeps do. For the record this is not in any Honda / Acura approved manual or procedure proformed by any authorized dealer. But this isn't about authorized or standard to do's... it's about personal preference and ensuring your peace of mind for your little baby..
Moving on..

The first procedure is to remove / drain the old oil after it has been warmed up, but leaving the old oil filter in place. From there you will pour in 2-3 bottles of the cheapest aszz oil you can find... Like those $0.69 Walmart specials... You will pour in this cheap oil into the crank case and let run for about 5-10 minutes.. When that is done, you simply drain the entire contents of the oil and remove the old filter...

This will hopefully remove all sludge / varnish / and other debris from the engine and the oil pan...

The other non standard procedure is the same as the above... But instead of using the cheap oil, you will pour in ATF fluid into the crankcase and let it run for the same amount of time.. This technique will remove most of the gunk from the engine and it's associated parts.."

Please keep in mind that the last procedure must not be done while the car is being reved... Extreme smoke may be apparent and this is normal as the carbon build-up is simply being burned and debris dislodged..



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95 Prelude VTEC