Switching to Mobil 1.....what to do?

I think it's a bit late to switch. It's recommended to switch to synthetic very early in your car's life - anywhere between 6k and 15k miles.

The deposits by the dino oil on your engine now actually seal it from leaking. If you switch now, those deposits will quickly clean out and your engine will leak and burn oil like there's no tomorrow :/

------------------

I think most brand-name conventional oils are pretty much the same.

------------------

30k is stretching it... you can try but don't be surprised if you have to switch back to dino oil.

------------------

Man, my 'lude burns oil quite a bit... then again I VTEC quite a bit.

But my friend's '99 Civic EX with 30k kilometers was spewing out oil like there's no tomorrow when he switched.

------------------

Yup, I kinda figure there's something wrong with it. He only gets 3-400km on a tank of gas too. Honda keeps denying there's anything wrong - I think he's going to demand arbitration.

------------------

ok so if there ends up being leaking problems from the switch, what parts will actually leak and can it be easily resolved?

And how did you guys flush out your engine or if you haven't done it but still know how, well how do you do it?
Thanks

btw this should be FAQ'd sometime

------------------
95 Prelude VTEC

If the car has been properly maintained (regular oil changes) you should be perfectly safe switching to a synthetic at 70K miles. It's engines that have been abused and/or have high mileage (100-120K+) that you have to worry about. Even then, it's only a CHANCE they might leak. Synthetic oils have come along way in preventing leaks in the last 10+ years.

Leaks, however rare, usually occur around the pan, main seals, etc ...

**NEVER** use an engine flush. These things are almost guaranteed engine-killers. Many places don't even sell these anymore.

I don't recommend ANY of the synthetic blends on the market. They usually have only 10-15% synthetic in them ... at 50% of the price of synthetic.

Your oil consumption should go down noticeably if you switch from dead-dino juice to synthetic oil.

--- Bror Jace

Bror Jace: what do you think of this way of "flushing" the engine, it is a quote from another thread..?

"There are two non standard engine flushes that most peeps do. For the record this is not in any Honda / Acura approved manual or procedure proformed by any authorized dealer. But this isn't about authorized or standard to do's... it's about personal preference and ensuring your peace of mind for your little baby..
Moving on..

The first procedure is to remove / drain the old oil after it has been warmed up, but leaving the old oil filter in place. From there you will pour in 2-3 bottles of the cheapest aszz oil you can find... Like those $0.69 Walmart specials... You will pour in this cheap oil into the crank case and let run for about 5-10 minutes.. When that is done, you simply drain the entire contents of the oil and remove the old filter...

This will hopefully remove all sludge / varnish / and other debris from the engine and the oil pan...

The other non standard procedure is the same as the above... But instead of using the cheap oil, you will pour in ATF fluid into the crankcase and let it run for the same amount of time.. This technique will remove most of the gunk from the engine and it's associated parts.."

Please keep in mind that the last procedure must not be done while the car is being reved... Extreme smoke may be apparent and this is normal as the carbon build-up is simply being burned and debris dislodged..



------------------
95 Prelude VTEC