I use Photopoint it's much more reliable then something like Geocities.
Are the collars longer?
And is the knock only from the passenger side rear still?
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KrautLude:
I got my new collars yesterday and installed them, and took some pics with my digicam while I was at it. I'll post a detailed procedure when I have time (How do the rest of you post pics? Photopoint.com/etc.?)
The short of it is, the new collars ARE different, Matt Hyder was on the right track with his fix, and I DO still have some knock (though it is less than before). Details to come....
Kraut</font>
This is strange....I thought that they would've been longer to tell you the truth. *scratches head* Hmmmmmmmm...<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KrautLude:
The new collars are exactly 2mm SHORTER than the stock collars and are made of a slightly different material.</font>
I thought the same thing. I'll have to look at the design over again and maybe it'll make sense that way.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joon525:
This is strange....I thought that they would've been longer to tell you the truth. *scratches head* Hmmmmmmmm...
Edit...........My reason is this......in that TSB they claimed that the probable cause was that the collars compressed over time.....which lead me to believe that a longer and stronger one would be the fix. Strange.
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Actually the tsb claims that the "upper spacers" compress over time; I'm not sure that means the collars. The collars do have a seam down them which I suppose could compress over time (my stock ones did not look "compressed" in this fashion).<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joon525:
This is strange....I thought that they would've been longer to tell you the truth. *scratches head* Hmmmmmmmm...
Edit...........My reason is this......in that TSB they claimed that the probable cause was that the collars compressed over time.....which lead me to believe that a longer and stronger one would be the fix. Strange.
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I thought something similar. But now I think the metal/metal contact occurs during a wiggling or side-to-side motion of the shock shaft, not a vertical motion. This is why the bushing comes into play as it is there to absorb all such lateral motion yet also ensure vibration of the shock shaft isn't transmitted directly to the body (bushings are rarely used anywhere in suspensions except for comfort/noise concerns; ideally everything would be welded to everything else<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joon525:
Yeah I see what you are saying........I just thought of it this way....if you heard a metal on metal "banging" noise, it can only mean that there's space between the 2 pieces. Hence if you made the collar longer it would eliminate this noise by taking up the space that was available for the 2 parts to travel in. See what I mean?
Don't get me wrong though......your explanation DOES indeed make sense to me...I'm wondering what what happen if you did the collar swap AND the washer trick???
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You gave me an idea.....what if we got a silicon tube that was the same length of the collar and had an ID the same as that stem that comes out of the shock and an OD the same as the ID of the collar, and then placed this over that stem and IN the collar so as to act as a cushion between the two?<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KrautLude:
I thought something similar. But now I think the metal/metal contact occurs during a wiggling or side-to-side motion of the shock shaft, not a vertical motion. </font>
I think Spoon makes bushings for our car...that guy with the nordic mist 5th gen with the white TE37's has them.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by KrautLude:
Unfortunately I don't know of anyone who sells these bushings in a different material....</font>
Perfect.....you wanna help me put in my rear sway bar? It came in the mail today.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by THATPRELUDEGUY:
Ray your idea seems to be right but I'm betting when you get everything apart there isn't that much slack between the two to get anything else in there. The only thing I could think of maybe trying would be some teflon tape on the shaft??? Just about anything is worth a shot though.
If you wanna try to fix the threads on the TEIN's hit me with an email on Friday and I'll let you know what my schedule is for the weekend.</font>