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How did the tuning go?
 

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^^^Ah, i see. BTW, I may be joining you and prepreludesh and be part of the JRSC club. :eek: Maybe I should start a thread "The Third Best Prelude In The World". :D
 
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Discussion Starter #85
^^^Ah, i see. BTW, I may be joining you and prepreludesh and be part of the JRSC club. :eek: Maybe I should start a thread "The Third Best Prelude In The World". :D
Good luck with it man, it can be a hassle, especially if you have the SH model...

Are you doing a full rebuild or just running stock engine?
 

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Good luck with it man, it can be a hassle, especially if you have the SH model...

Are you doing a full rebuild or just running stock engine?
The engine is down (rod bearing was going bad), so I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it, rebuild a blown motor I have in the garage (it has 80k on the motor), or buying another motor. The latter option of course is higher on the budget.
 

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Discussion Starter #87
The engine is down (rod bearing was going bad), so I'm trying to decide if I want to rebuild it, rebuild a blown motor I have in the garage (it has 80k on the motor), or buying another motor. The latter option of course is higher on the budget.
I wouldn't be too sure about that, I put a lot into my rebuild...

Running JRSC you don't need any head work, just sleeve/rebuild the block.
 

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I wouldn't be too sure about that, I put a lot into my rebuild...

Running JRSC you don't need any head work, just sleeve/rebuild the block.
Would you say then you would've been better off getting a "fresher" motor and sleeve/rebuild the block for less?
 

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Discussion Starter #89 (Edited)
So I am back from vacation, the car is tuned, but after they got it tuned they were going to test drive it and CEL for crank position sensor came on and the car is running in limp mode. Actually it barely runs they say...

Debating on having them replace the part or trailering it back and doing it myself with the help of my buddy.

On a positive note, the HP rating ended up at 254 @ 10 psi, 213 lb/ft torque. VTEC is set to engage right around 4k rpm.

I can't wait till I can drive the thing.
 

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Well, at least that's a plus. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Picked the car up this morning, it's back at my buddy's shop waiting to be diagnosed tomorrow...

Tried on the new Honda center caps I bought for my RPF1's, they're way too dark, sent them back and I think I found some that are closer to the right color, should have them in a few days...



Here is the dyno sheet from the tuner...



Can't wait to get this sensor issue fixed so I can drive it!!
 

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Discussion Starter #93
We figured out what was wrong with the car. The belt walked a little (something with the tensioner?) and got shredded a little. I don't think we have any bent valves or anything, but timing was off about 30 degrees.



Luckily the local speed shop had some belts lying around, otherwise I would have needed to order one for Saturday delivery, and who can afford that?



On the brighter side, I did find some center caps that don't look retarded...

 

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Out of curiosity, your ATTS unit is still functioning just fine? I always hear about it starting to cut out around the 250 whp range, and your dyno sheet shows 254.
 

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Discussion Starter #97 (Edited)
So I've been having a few issues with the car lately, not the least of which are the high IAT's since I am not running an intercooler or meth injection. I am looking into the latter and will be adding it soon, however there are some other issues I need to fix first.

First of all, I had a belt snap on the supercharger side already, not even 1000 miles. I was thinking I had it too tight or something. When it snapped it took out one of my vacuum lines...



Come to find out it was the one going from my tuner to the vacuum source, got that hooked back up...



Turns out the belt wasn't too tight, the supercharger is too far to the right on the plenum, causing the belt not to run true. I had to move the belt over one rib on the jackshaft pulley to get it to run straight.



However, when I went to replace the belt, there was a clearance issue, and I couldn't get the tensioner off without removing the jackshaft. Total pain in the ass... When I got it all off, here is what I found...

I think the friction and heat may have been a contributing factor to the belt snapping so quickly...







Totally not cool. So I ordered some new gaskets, we are going to try and move it over to the left some and true up the belt situation and also try to make it so the tensioner can be removed without removing the jackshaft as well for belt replacement.

In addition to that, I have a stripped out tensioner, so we will be drilling and tapping the tensioner piece for a larger 10mm bolt instead of the stock 8mm one...



I did get something cool done today, I finally found a USDM harness for my foglights...



Only took 3 beers to get it installed...



Finally got rid of this horrible eBay crap...



Next up I am going to replace my eBay fogs with some actual JDM ones... :)
 

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I guess that's some bad news/good news on your end. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #100
Got everything working again. Had to take off the blower and drill out some of the holes on the jackshaft (they were kind of clogged up with powdercoat) and I was able to line everything up right. The tensioner comes off now without having to do anything crazy and the belt runs true...

Sorry no fancy pics...

Next up I am saving my cash for a methanol injection kit, going to get that installed and then get the car re-tuned and I should hopefully be done for a while (other than body work/paint).
 
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