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street racing instructor
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he means 5.1 as in inbetween step 5 and 6. He added to the above list up there. ive never replaced a clutch but i know DRRs first post on prelude power was about him rebuilding his manual tranny himself so Id guess he knows what he is doing.
I'm not talking about that. I'm saying that I don't think there is any such need for "Remove hexhead stud from trans housing". I don't remember anything like that on a swap.

Now if you take the tranny apart, there are a bunch of steps like that. Maybe that's what he is referring to?
 

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Great, kindred spirits -- just the encouragement I needed! You guys rule!
I've got the hip waders on and am knee deep (actually midway) into a clutch r. and r. right now. And I think I might have a bit more skin on my knuckles if I read this page and followed DRR1998's advice on the hexhead stud removal before I tried to take the old tranny out (I have the Helm manual, and I missed that -- d'oh). I knew I wasn't going to get the new trans in unless I did something like that. Btw DRR, that is one clean engine compartment--wow--looks great... I am still wondering how I am going to get the input shaft lined up with the clutch splines. Between me, and my floorjack, and my two jackstands, we'll see how it goes. Life is not for the faint of heart, I guess. I've attached some images -- I likely won't get to the install 'til the weekend at the earliest... Wish me luck -- I'll need it.
 

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street racing instructor
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Good luck my friend, it's not so bad. Make sure you apply grease to the input shaft on the tranny; it goes in much easier that way. Same for the axles.

When I did a tranny swap, i unbolted it from the bottom of the mount, not the bolt that goes through the frame mount. That should allow the tranny to drop straight down.
 

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Hey Jim, I missed the "pull the stud" step at first. When the trans would not come out and I saw that stud was the reason, and then I noticed the hex head. I wondered out loud to my friend why this stud has a hex head. I went back to the manual and saw I missed step #31. Dooh!

I recommend just cleaning the shaft before installing the trans. Lubing it won't help align the splines and lube could end up on the clutch or p/p and cause problems.

Getting the trans back in is kind of like a secret handshake and then holding your mouth just right while doing it. Ha. Looking to see that you have the proper angle and alignment is the key.

One thing I did that the manual did not show is add a dab of syn grease to the set ring on the drive shaft and the intermediate shaft to hold the set ring centered. Not on the shaft/splines, only a dab on the set ring.

Good luck this weekend Jim. I hope I have helped a little.

Doug

For the benefit of others who may read this... here is where you should lube before installing the trans - according to the service manual...

 

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I tell you what, I am impressed with the response people get when they need help on this site. I haven't been a member here long, but I've been digging around here quite a bit and have really picked up on some valuable info. Just a note to say thanks: ~Randall
 

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Thanks for the encouragement -- more tips too -- really great, thanks, guys:bigthumb:
While we're on the subject, I haven't taken my flywheel off yet, was too tired Sunday night. I did notice lots of burnt discoloration on the mating surface as well as what looks like heat cracks (zoinks!?). As far as the latter goes, please feel free to editorialize as to whether it is serviceable with just a skim (I guess this is also something a machine shop would tell me) -- I would like to try to avoid buying a new/used one. "Blue-surface-cracking" images attached (site won't allow super-hi-rez upload due to image size)... Keep the shiny side up, and thanks again....
-Jim
 

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To turn or to replace the flywheel? I understand you want to avoid spending more money. I can't really see the cracks in the pic. Like you say the shop will know if the cracks are too deep to remove.

As far as my opinion as to what to do...

Weigh the cost of having it turned ~ $25? (guess) vs new - $87 = $62 difference....I would get a new one and break it in gently.The slower you heat it up the less prone to cracking it will be. Just like new brakes, clutches need to be seasoned. You should try to heat it gently for a couple of weeks before doing any hard launches or peak RPM shifts.

If you do reuse the flywheel be sure to index it to the flange so that it goes back on the same as it came off, in case of balance issues. Just firmly scribe the same bolt hole on the flange and f/w.

Thanks for the props on my engine compartment. Some people think a/r is a bad thing.

Doug
 

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Im giong to pick up the helms manual for more detail, but how hard is it to pull the axles? they need replacing along with my tranny and clutch! do they just pull out like the civics?

thanks guys
 

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I know this thred is like super old but if there is anyone seeing it plx help. I have a question about removing my axles from the tranny do i need to remove both from the tranny or just the passenger side one?
 

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10) Sacrifice small animals and prey to your God the tranny lines up and mounts easily. At this point you may have personally spilled enough blood that small animal won't be needed.

THAT just made my day.
 

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the first times a ***** if you havent done it....of course having the tools is a must to.. taking my time and waiting for parts (three days) and such took me a week. helping a friend this weekend with his sh but i think i can get it done in a bout 6-8 hrs. after doing it once its really very simple.
 

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When I replaced my Clutch last year...i'd have to say it was a pain in the Ass without lifting the engine up. I just jacked it up with two jacks, front and rear, and worked on it like that. Make sure you have a partner to help you...Removing the tranny and putting it back in was a big pain too...Took me about 5 days after school and work. Biggest problem I ran into was that my impact gun wasnt strong enough to take out the axle, the bolt was rusted in pretty damn good. Had to get a new gun. SO IN OTHER WORDS, POSSIBLE, YES, JUST A PAIN. - you'll have very minimal room to work with it. Have Fun. :D
 

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Know someone that can do it with minimal tools in the driveway in like 2 hrs, with the right tools and a lift less than an hr. A furniture dolly to set the transmission on and jack stands that can lift the car high enough to slide it out from the bottom makes a huge difference. Only thing that's in the way on the bottom is the passenger radius rod that's simple to remove.

If you've never done it before then it can be a huge task.
 

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I got the tranny off and the clutch off as well. didn't really see any problems with the clutch other than it was a little messed up on where i was taking out the tranny. i'm getting a new one anyway hopefully it'll be all good. Got a new transmission to put in tomorrow gonna do a lot of cleaning.

Thanks for all the help guys and yeah pulled it out on my chest no problem.
 

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Man all you people make changing the damn clutch seem like an impossible task, its a 6 hour job max.
Mitchell flat rate for R&R (remove and replace) a rear main seal (which should be done at the same time) on a fifth gen 'lude is-

Base model 6.3hrs.
Type SH 10hrs.
These times are calculated using a lift and a semi-experienced mechanic using hand tools (pneumatic). I would say if you are doing it yourself in the driveway, DOUBLE these times for you to do it (esp. if you have never done it before).
 

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Don't buy Hane's buy HELMS Service Manuals, Owner Manuals, Wiring Diagrams, Service Bulletins - Helm Incorporated

If you have a friend you don't need another floorjack since the tranny is about 80lbs. You can use the floor jack to support and raise the engine as long as you put something on it. That way it doesn't damage the oil pan. You will need a torque wrench, and a breaker bar wouldn't hurt.

I wouldn't attempt this without the HELMS if you haven't done it before. You will need to know a bunch or torque specs for mounts, flywheel, bellhousing, etc.
Where can I find these torque specs?
 
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