Regarding UR pulleys

1664 Views 33 Replies 12 Participants Last post by DYI01, Apr 3, 2001

LVSBB6

Discussion Starter · Apr 1, 2001

I finally decided to get the UR instead of AEMs. Although the bearing issue bothers me abit, no one seems to have problems with them. I just ordered them yesterday and they should be here in a week time.

At the mean time, I am just wondering if anyone got the belts size handy, Which brand of belts do you recommend?

1 - 20 of 34 Posts

andrewdelvard

· #2 · Apr 1, 2001

You will need:
a. Gates 060390 (6 rib 39 inch).
b. Gates 040395 (4 rib 39 1/2 inch).
The Gates belts are a very good quality but you can use other makes as long as they match the above sizes.
The fits are 100% perfect.

Here are the fitting instructions in case you wish to make plans for the install.

You are going to love this modification.
I know I do!
Good Luck.

[This message has been edited by andrewdelvard (edited March 31, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by andrewdelvard (edited March 31, 2001).]

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LVSBB6

Discussion Starter · #3 · Apr 1, 2001

Thank you very much!
I'll get the belts ahead of time so that I can have the pulleys installed on the day of arrival.
Can't wait to try them out = )

andrewdelvard

· #4 · Apr 1, 2001

Your welcome, don't forget to post your thoughts once they are fitted.

U.K VTEC

· #5 · Apr 1, 2001

Andy, I was just wondering if you have uprated the hi-fi in your car, ie: amps, sub etc, coz I fancy the pulley set but am concerned about the alternator pulley with my system. Will it cope?
Cheers mate

------------------
93 VTEC 4WS & TC (JDM)
"and on the seventh day, God created VTEC"

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andrewdelvard

· #6 · Apr 1, 2001

Hello mate, no I've not uprated the system at all but I've read of problems with really 'PHAT' systems.
Hopefully someone else will have encountered this 'problem' and let you know.

U.K VTEC

· #7 · Apr 1, 2001

BTW, where's Dan?? Outside the youth club showing off his new wheels?

------------------
93 VTEC 4WS & TC (JDM)
"and on the seventh day, God created VTEC"

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G

· #8 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by LVSBB6:
I finally decided to get the UR instead of AEMs. Although the bearing issue bothers me abit, no one seems to have problems with them. I just ordered them yesterday and they should be here in a week time.

At the mean time, I am just wondering if anyone got the belts size handy, Which brand of belts do you recommend?

</font>

Good luck.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

DYI01

· #9 · Apr 1, 2001

u will love the pullies, great choice. The TQ is so much stronger from idle to redline. GREAT MOD.

------------------
Dan Yi
99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
www.MICrew.net

G

· #10 · Apr 1, 2001

I really, really loved my UR pulley, but after seeing what it did, I won't be using one.

I can't say how long it takes major damage to occur, but I had noticable bearing damage, and unrepairable oil pump damage with 30k miles on the pulley.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

DYI01

· #11 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
I really, really loved my UR pulley, but after seeing what it did, I won't be using one.

I can't say how long it takes major damage to occur, but I had noticable bearing damage, and unrepairable oil pump damage with 30k miles on the pulley.

</font>

how do you damamge an oil pump?
not being ignorant or anything, i just dont know

------------------
Dan Yi
99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
www.MICrew.net

G

· #12 · Apr 1, 2001

The oil pump is driven off of the crank snout right behind the timing belt pulley. The crank pulley end of the crank is the one that is prone to the most vibration with a solid crank pulley. If you look at an oil pump, it looks like a big gear that spins inside of a housing. The excessive vibration wore grooves into the housing that were so deep that the pump had to be replaced.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

LVSBB6

Discussion Starter · #13 · Apr 1, 2001

After seeing your dyno, I'm even more convinced that URs are great choice.

Billy, how do you know for sure that the oil pump damage was directly or indirectly done by the pulley? I have no knowledge on that.

Dan, how long did you have the URs for? Have you encountered any problems? e

G

· #14 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by LVSBB6:
After seeing your dyno, I'm even more convinced that URs are great choice.

Billy, how do you know for sure that the oil pump damage was directly or indirectly done by the pulley? I have no knowledge on that.

Dan, how long did you have the URs for? Have you encountered any problems? e
</font>

According to my engine builder (Larry at Endyn) the grooves in the oil pump were caused by excessive vibration in the crank, which is most likely caused by using a nondamped solid crank hub.

Now, I don't know what a regular oil pump should look like on an H22, but the oil pump that Larry took apart for me had 45k miles on it, with 30k of those miles with the pulley. What I am trying to say is that the oil pump was just getting broken in! The way that the damage was discovered is that Larry was supposed to modify the oil pump for racing use, but the grooves were so bad that the pump had to be replaced.

One other thing is that before the engine was torn down, there were NO symptoms. No problems whatsoever. No noise, etc. etc. The other thing that bothers me is that the bearing wear was so excessive, and that metal had to go somewhere. Before it got to the oil filter, it went through my rod bearings, etc. etc.

I think the only symptoms that I have heard of (although never actually seen) are oil pump failures and bearing failures.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

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andrewdelvard

· #15 · Apr 1, 2001

Just out of interest, what would be the cost of a replacement oil pump?

vwong

· #16 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
According to my engine builder (Larry at Endyn) the grooves in the oil pump were caused by excessive vibration in the crank, which is most likely caused by using a nondamped solid crank hub.

Now, I don't know what a regular oil pump should look like on an H22, but the oil pump that Larry took apart for me had 45k miles on it, with 30k of those miles with the pulley. What I am trying to say is that the oil pump was just getting broken in! The way that the damage was discovered is that Larry was supposed to modify the oil pump for racing use, but the grooves were so bad that the pump had to be replaced.

One other thing is that before the engine was torn down, there were NO symptoms. No problems whatsoever. No noise, etc. etc. The other thing that bothers me is that the bearing wear was so excessive, and that metal had to go somewhere. Before it got to the oil filter, it went through my rod bearings, etc. etc.

I think the only symptoms that I have heard of (although never actually seen) are oil pump failures and bearing failures.

</font>

71dsp, remember we had the discussion on the UR pulley a while back? And I said that the factory crank pulley is in fact the harmonic balancer. So it's not wise to replace it with a nondampened pulley like UR. I'm glad that I took the UR pulley off when I only had about 10k miles on it.

Now I'm thinking about getting the AEM pulley sets for my car.

------------------
Vincent
98 TypeSH
99 GSR Sedan
CSCC SoloII #107 STS
Team Vision

BoYgUaN

· #17 · Apr 1, 2001

I am wondering if i just get the alternator pully and the power steering pulley, will it be effect in any way after a long period of time and will the lights be dimming alot. I heard of the aem kit that makes the lights dim more than the UOR one so i am just wondering. Which one will have more gains if it is just the alternator and power steering?

------------------

aLwAyS lOoKiNg To Go FaStEr
2000 Crystal Blue Base Prelude
OEM Body kit
AEM CAI
EIBACH PROKIT
Dc Front Upper Strut Tower Bar
Dc Rear Lower Strut Tower Bar
Mobil One Synthetic 5w-30
AUDIO:Alpine 7965 CD deck,Mtx Thunder 304 @ 375 Watts, Mtx Thunder 302 @ 400 Watts Powering A 12 Inch Mtx 8000, and Alpine 12 Disc Cd Changer

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G

· #18 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by andrewdelvard:
Just out of interest, what would be the cost of a replacement oil pump?</font>

$120 to $160, but it's behind the timing belt pulley, so everything forward of that has to be removed. Also, the pickup is bolted to the pump, so the pan would have to come off. It's not a trivial install to say the least.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

G

· #19 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BoYgUaN:
I am wondering if i just get the alternator pully and the power steering pulley, will it be effect in any way after a long period of time and will the lights be dimming alot. I heard of the aem kit that makes the lights dim more than the UOR one so i am just wondering. Which one will have more gains if it is just the alternator and power steering?
</font>

It wouldn't hurt anything. The crank pulley gives you better gains than the accessory pulleys, but at a higher cost!

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

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G

· #20 · Apr 1, 2001

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by vwong:
71dsp, remember we had the discussion on the UR pulley a while back? And I said that the factory crank pulley is in fact the harmonic balancer. So it's not wise to replace it with a nondampened pulley like UR. I'm glad that I took the UR pulley off when I only had about 10k miles on it.

Now I'm thinking about getting the AEM pulley sets for my car.

</font>

Yeah, I remember. I posted all of that stuff a long time ago. I admitted that I was wrong about the pulley.

------------------
Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org

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