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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I need some pointers. I have a 99 prelude that I just bought. I’ve replaced quite a few parts already- EGR valve, cat converter, spark plugs, spark plug wires, etc..
It is throwing misfire codes for every single cylinder as well as the random misfire code. It was ALOT worse before I replaced the spark plugs. Here’s the thing- I really only feel the misfires at around 2000 RPM in second gear and once every time I come to a stop. It starts and runs well all times besides that. Any ideas on what would cause a misfire but only on those conditions?
 

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Hi Kilewire, have you checked the compression on all 4 cylinders? If you replaced all those items, I'd check the compression on all cylinders. Do you know if the previous owner overheated the engine? If the engine was overheated you could have problems in the valves or head gasket. From my experience, I overheated my engine because the upper radiator hose failed on me. I replaced it and kept driving it, but it overheated to the point that I would get misfires and when idling or coming to a stop my car would turn off if I let the RPM's drop below 1.5k. Finally I got tired of driving like that and I opened up the engine and found out that I had two cracked valves. I swapped the engine head with another one that had good valves and the car has been running good since then. Luckily the pistons and engine block were still in good shape.

I didn't do the compression test on the cylinders because I had already gotten an engine and was set on replacing the engine. But I would recommend to start there to get some answers before opening up the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hi Kilewire, have you checked the compression on all 4 cylinders? If you replaced all those items, I'd check the compression on all cylinders. Do you know if the previous owner overheated the engine? If the engine was overheated you could have problems in the valves or head gasket. From my experience, I overheated my engine because the upper radiator hose failed on me. I replaced it and kept driving it, but it overheated to the point that I would get misfires and when idling or coming to a stop my car would turn off if I let the RPM's drop below 1.5k. Finally I got tired of driving like that and I opened up the engine and found out that I had two cracked valves. I swapped the engine head with another one that had good valves and the car has been running good since then. Luckily the pistons and engine block were still in good shape.

I didn't do the compression test on the cylinders because I had already gotten an engine and was set on replacing the engine. But I would recommend to start there to get some answers before opening up the engine.
hey brod_preludesh ! Thanks for the heads up! I’ll definitely be checking that next! Just a little update: I checked my distributor rotor and it was half rusted out, so I replaced it and I didn’t feel a single misfire. UNTIL later in the day it started acting up again.. kind of strange. I’m also going to be replacing the distributor cap as well just in case. But compression check is definitely needed. Thanks!
 

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hey brod_preludesh ! Thanks for the heads up! I’ll definitely be checking that next! Just a little update: I checked my distributor rotor and it was half rusted out, so I replaced it and I didn’t feel a single misfire. UNTIL later in the day it started acting up again.. kind of strange. I’m also going to be replacing the distributor cap as well just in case. But compression check is definitely needed. Thanks!
For some reason I thought you had mentioned changing all those items. If you replaced spark plugs, spark plug cables including ignition coil cable, then you should of done distributor cap and rotor. Both cap and rotors should be replaced at the same time and try getting the same brand (Beck & Arnley is a decent brand). Once you've replaced all these check the spark at the wire. Do you have a spark tester? Make sure you are getting spark at the end of the plug wire. If you don't get spark maybe your ICM (Ignition Control Module) might need to be replaced.

Double check the spark plug wires are in the correct cylinder and order on the distributor cap, silly mistake but happens more often than you can imagine.
19920

Were you careful when swapping the spark plug? I'd double check the gap (0.043 in.) in the spark plugs to make sure they are good.
When you changed the spark plugs did you notice any oil in them or inside the tube? If there is oil this can also cause spark problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hi Kylewire, any updates on your misfire?
Hey Brod! So I’ve replaced the distributor and regapped the spark plugs as well as double checking the spark plug wire locations.. nothing has helped the issue. ALTHOUGH: I’ve discovered that there is a small amount of oil on the threads of all the spark plugs. Somewhat concerning.
 

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Kilewire your next step would be to check for compression on the cylinders. Make sure your numbers are high and consistent. I looked up compressions test for the H22 and it is about 185psi, some even suggest 190-220psi but these are for either new engines or rebuilt. I think if you are at or above 160psi and within 10% of each cylinder than you should be fine.

Do you have the number(s) of the OBD codes you are getting? I wonder if it is just misfire or it is accompanied by other codes. Below is a table from the service manual that shows other possible reasons why you are getting misfire. Might want to check the fuel pressure, fuel injectors, EGR ports (since you already replaced the EGR valve), cylinder compression, and valve clearance.
19921
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Kilewire your next step would be to check for compression on the cylinders. Make sure your numbers are high and consistent. I looked up compressions test for the H22 and it is about 185psi, some even suggest 190-220psi but these are for either new engines or rebuilt. I think if you are at or above 160psi and within 10% of each cylinder than you should be fine.

Do you have the number(s) of the OBD codes you are getting? I wonder if it is just misfire or it is accompanied by other codes. Below is a table from the service manual that shows other possible reasons why you are getting misfire. Might want to check the fuel pressure, fuel injectors, EGR ports (since you already replaced the EGR valve), cylinder compression, and valve clearance.
View attachment 19921
Hey Brod, so I just bought a compression tester kit as well as a fuel pressure tester kit. I’ll give updates as soon as I’ll be able to. I’ll also get it rescanned tomorrow for the exact codes. All I know is that it gives 5 codes, (one for each cylinder misfire) 1 code for “Random misfire”. Will update soon!
 

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Hey Brod, so I just bought a compression tester kit as well as a fuel pressure tester kit. I’ll give updates as soon as I’ll be able to. I’ll also get it rescanned tomorrow for the exact codes. All I know is that it gives 5 codes, (one for each cylinder misfire) 1 code for “Random misfire”. Will update soon!
Dang you bought all those items? Have you tried AutoZone or Oreilly tool loan programs? You basically give a deposit of the cost of the tool and then once you return the tool they refund your money back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Dang you bought all those items? Have you tried AutoZone or Oreilly tool loan programs? You basically give a deposit of the cost of the tool and then once you return the tool they refund your money back.
Yeah I’ve known about those progams, but I found the kits for $20 each. So I figured might as well have them so I can test my family’s cars as well. I’m about to test the compression right now, let you know how it goes! ALSO, I’ve rescanned my car and it turns out that a P1399 code is showing up. I’ve looked into it and it says that the valves most likely need adjusting.. so I suppose that’ll be next
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
so the compression test went well (I think)
Looking at the engine the cylinders read from right to left:
  1. 150
  2. 140
  3. 165
  4. 185 I did test again a second time and they were slightly different than the first test. But not by a huge amount
 

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so the compression test went well (I think)
Looking at the engine the cylinders read from right to left:
  1. 150
  2. 140
  3. 165
  4. 185 I did test again a second time and they were slightly different than the first test. But not by a huge amount
From 185-140 that's more than 10% difference (24% is what I am getting), maybe a valve adjustment might help to bring up the psi. I would do a leak down test to check if the piston rings are going bad as well after doing the valve adjustment.

 

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Hello, I’m new here. I just bought a 2000 lude with 171,000 miles a couple weeks ago and it’s throwing a code for a catalytic converter and a random misfire as well (P1399). I’m not worried about the converter as we don’t have inspections in my state.

I just did a compression test and came up with these results:

Cylinder 1: 170psi
Cylinder 2: 170psi
Cylinder 3: 165psi
Cylinder 4: 150psi

Not terrible, but all are below spec and cylinder 4 is far lower. Any ideas? I may just take it to an engine shop that specializes in Honda’s and have them check it out. I don’t have the means or time to pull engine and rebuild it... or the experience lol. But anyway, the car doesn’t run too bad as is but definitely has some power loss.

I’m going to change the spark plugs because they are super grimy. It looks like the plug wires are new on the car though which is strange.

edit: here’s a pic of the old plug. All four are white like that.
19938
 

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dat
Hello, I’m new here. I just bought a 2000 lude with 171,000 miles a couple weeks ago and it’s throwing a code for a catalytic converter and a random misfire as well (P1399). I’m not worried about the converter as we don’t have inspections in my state.

I just did a compression test and came up with these results:

Cylinder 1: 170psi
Cylinder 2: 170psi
Cylinder 3: 165psi
Cylinder 4: 150psi

Not terrible, but all are below spec and cylinder 4 is far lower. Any ideas? I may just take it to an engine shop that specializes in Honda’s and have them check it out. I don’t have the means or time to pull engine and rebuild it... or the experience lol. But anyway, the car doesn’t run too bad as is but definitely has some power loss.

I’m going to change the spark plugs because they are super grimy. It looks like the plug wires are new on the car though which is strange.

edit: here’s a pic of the old plug. All four are white like that.
View attachment 19938
Maybe a valve adjustment could help with the compression numbers. Cylinder 4 needs it the most. Here's a forum on white spark plugs, since you have codes that are making your engine not run efficiently (running to lean) this could case the white spark plug: https://www.reddit.com/r/AskMechanics/comments/727yb9/_/dnh8816
 
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