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SSgohan said:
my question is: is the timing mark suppose to be static or should it jump around a bit when you look at it through a timing light. Cause my timing is jumping around a little so it's hard to tell what degree i am at. and it doesn't help that my timing light doesn't have a rpm read out or an timing advance mode.

it should be pretty steady. The gun goes off the plug wire, so every time the cly. fires, the light flashes. It might move a little bit but if its jumping around a lot, the light might not be good... or your idle might be off, I dunno... ?
 

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SSgohan said:
plus why do u have to jump the wires under the center console-what's the point of that???
from what I have read, it puts the ECU in limp mode. If it was not in limp mode, it would correct itself every time you moved it. what you are doing is basically:

A) car is at normal timing setting. car thinks of this as normal timing

B) you move the timing, car sees it move, car moves it back

C) you blind fold the car, move the timing again, and take the blind fold off. the car never saw it move, and then thinks that the NEW position is the normal setting.


thats the best way I can describe it.
 

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Deepmist said:
How will advancing your timing affect
the performance of your car?

(I know nothing about cars)

Well fuel burn is not instantanious. If the spark were to occur at top-dead-center, then the combustion wouldn't be at its peak until the piston was already on its way down.

advancing the ignition causes the spark to occur before the piston reaches the top, so you get the most ammount of downward force when the piston reaches the top.

think of it like this:

you are pushing your little sister on a swing (I'm just full of metaphors today :) )

your sister is the piston. you are the air/fuel mixture. when you push, thats you combusting. Now instead of shoving (an explosion) you want to smoothly push over the course of a full second or so (slowly burning, like fuel does)


when your sister swings up tward you, if you wait to start pushing until she is already on her way back down, you won't be able to push her as hard, as you will expell some energy after you hands aren't able to push on her any more. (you can't reach her as easily)

if you start to push just as she reaches you, just before she crests at the max height, then you will be able to get the maximum ammount of force behind the push.

but, if you start to stick your arms out too soon, you will hurt yourself and knock your sister off the swing and she will cry (detonate/burn up a piston :laugh: )

thats sorta how it works...
 

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thx for the reply
i will put the car in limp mode tonight and recheck the timing.

if the timing mark is jumping around alittle does that mean my engine is misfiring

some mechanics i have talked to have told me that the timing mark is not static but some say that it should be static

btw-the idle is kinda rough and the car shakes abit ay idle but i always though that it was bad motor mounts
 

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sounds like your idle is too low. make sure you aren't doing it when the radiator fan is running.

take it somewhere with a digital tach & hook it up to the service plug under the hood (blue wire strapped down to the fender under the hood on the passenger side, with a terminal ending into nothing) or see if you can get a timing light with a tach on it.
 

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JDM Lude said:



Well fuel burn is not instantanious. If the spark were to occur at top-dead-center, then the combustion wouldn't be at its peak until the piston was already on its way down.

advancing the ignition causes the spark to occur before the piston reaches the top, so you get the most ammount of downward force when the piston reaches the top.

think of it like this:

you are pushing your little sister on a swing (I'm just full of metaphors today :) )

your sister is the piston. you are the air/fuel mixture. when you push, thats you combusting. Now instead of shoving (an explosion) you want to smoothly push over the course of a full second or so (slowly burning, like fuel does)


when your sister swings up tward you, if you wait to start pushing until she is already on her way back down, you won't be able to push her as hard, as you will expell some energy after you hands aren't able to push on her any more. (you can't reach her as easily)

if you start to push just as she reaches you, just before she crests at the max height, then you will be able to get the maximum ammount of force behind the push.

but, if you start to stick your arms out too soon, you will hurt yourself and knock your sister off the swing and she will cry (detonate/burn up a piston :laugh: )

thats sorta how it works...
K, makes more sense now. Thanx :D
 

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ignition timing can KILL performance, or KILL your motor. example:

When I got my new motor, the shop forgot to check the timing. I drove the car around for a while, and it felt ok I guess.... I had been without my car for a month, and driving a focus, so it seemed quick.

I went to the track, and my BEST time was a 15.8. I was thinking my new motor was ****ed.

I went home, checked the timing, and it was about 8 degrees retarded. (VERY RETARDED! :mad: :laugh: ). I cranked it up to where its supposed to go, and went back to the track - ran a 14.7


I have a stock JDM motor with intake & V-AFC. your biggest concern from advancing the ignition will be detonation. USDM motors have less of a chance of doing that, as the compression is lower. I wouldn't go anything past 19-20 degrees though.

here is how to set your timing (this applies to a 4th generation prelude H22 - would guess the 5th gen is the same, or close...):

-drive around until you are almost out of gas

-stop at a gas station

-fill up with 93 octane

-drive home

-say 'damnit', get back in the car, and drive to the store and buy a timing light, with a digital readout for RPM.

-go back home

- turn your ignition off.

- look under the dash on the driver side, behind the center console. you will see two plugs hanging there. take the one with the brown & white wire going into it, and stick a paperclip into the plug to jump the harness (complete the circuit)

- turn the ignition on, but don't start the car

- the CE light should stay on

- start the car.

- turn off all lights, AC, fan, defroster, & stereo equipment in the car

- pull the small rubber stopper out of the front of the block. you will see it under the upper radiator hose, next to the header heat shield. yank that thing out of the block, there will be a hole there (don't stick your weewee in there, you'll fawking loose it)

take your timing light, hook it up per the instructions that came with the light (power from the battery, ground to the chassis) the #1 plug wire is the wire that goes to the 2nd spark plug from the passenger side. (the firing order goes, from passenger side to driver side, 2-1-3-4). the timing light clamp just needs to go over that wire.

the light will start flashing. if its a nice timing light, it will display your idle speed. (or you can use your V-AFC for that, if you have one). Adjust your idle screw on the throttle body so that you idle at 700 RPM (or as close as possible.)

turn off your garage light (or do this at night)

take a flashlight, and aim it inside that hole. you will see two a marker that looks like an arrow, on the right side. there are actually two arrows, your point of view should line those up.

take the flashing timing light, and aim it in the hole. turn off the flashlight.

the flywheel has marks like this:

------ <---- top dead center
.
.
.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
.
----- <---- 15 degrees (factory timing setting)
.
----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
.
.
.
.
.
.




you won't be able to see the top-dead-center mark, it will be hidden out of view of the small hole. make sure the timing light, if it has built-in ignition advance, is on '0'. The arrow on the block should be very near the center mark (15 degrees), assuming your timing has never been messed with.

take a screw driver, and with a hammer, notch the distributor cap & base, incase you ever want to easily return it to stock.

loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor (10mm? 12mm? I don't remember...)

with one hand on the gun, and looking in the hole, SLOWLY turn the distributor towards the firewall to advance, toward you to retard. using the '+2' mark (furthest to the bottom) as a reference, go a tiny bit just beyond that.

tighten the distributor, being careful not to move the cap.

recheck the timing, to make sure it didn't move while you were tightening the cap.

turn the car off, pull the paperclip out, and go test it.

Spark plugs are
4321 from the distributor to the timing belt
the ignition advance setting on the timing light can also be used. to use that, simply set the advance that you want, (18, 19, etc) and line it up with the top-dead-center mark. (NOT THE +15 MARK!)

good luck fawkers! :bigthumb:
 

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ignition timing can KILL performance, or KILL your motor. example:

When I got my new motor, the shop forgot to check the timing. I drove the car around for a while, and it felt ok I guess.... I had been without my car for a month, and driving a focus, so it seemed quick.

I went to the track, and my BEST time was a 15.8. I was thinking my new motor was ****ed.

I went home, checked the timing, and it was about 8 degrees retarded. (VERY RETARDED! :mad: :laugh: ). I cranked it up to where its supposed to go, and went back to the track - ran a 14.7


I have a stock JDM motor with intake & V-AFC. your biggest concern from advancing the ignition will be detonation. USDM motors have less of a chance of doing that, as the compression is lower. I wouldn't go anything past 19-20 degrees though.

here is how to set your timing (this applies to a 4th generation prelude H22 - would guess the 5th gen is the same, or close...):

-drive around until you are almost out of gas

-stop at a gas station

-fill up with 93 octane

-drive home

-say 'damnit', get back in the car, and drive to the store and buy a timing light, with a digital readout for RPM.

-go back home

- turn your ignition off.

- look under the dash on the driver side, behind the center console. you will see two plugs hanging there. take the one with the brown & white wire going into it, and stick a paperclip into the plug to jump the harness (complete the circuit)

- turn the ignition on, but don't start the car

- the CE light should stay on

- start the car.

- turn off all lights, AC, fan, defroster, & stereo equipment in the car

- pull the small rubber stopper out of the front of the block. you will see it under the upper radiator hose, next to the header heat shield. yank that thing out of the block, there will be a hole there (don't stick your weewee in there, you'll fawking loose it)

take your timing light, hook it up per the instructions that came with the light (power from the battery, ground to the chassis) the #1 plug wire is the wire that goes to the 2nd spark plug from the passenger side. (the firing order goes, from passenger side to driver side, 2-1-3-4). the timing light clamp just needs to go over that wire.

the light will start flashing. if its a nice timing light, it will display your idle speed. (or you can use your V-AFC for that, if you have one). Adjust your idle screw on the throttle body so that you idle at 700 RPM (or as close as possible.)

turn off your garage light (or do this at night)

take a flashlight, and aim it inside that hole. you will see two a marker that looks like an arrow, on the right side. there are actually two arrows, your point of view should line those up.

take the flashing timing light, and aim it in the hole. turn off the flashlight.

the flywheel has marks like this:

------ <---- top dead center
.
.
.
.
.

.
.
.
.
.
.
.
.
----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
.
----- <---- 15 degrees (factory timing setting)
.
----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
.
.
.
.
.
.




you won't be able to see the top-dead-center mark, it will be hidden out of view of the small hole. make sure the timing light, if it has built-in ignition advance, is on '0'. The arrow on the block should be very near the center mark (15 degrees), assuming your timing has never been messed with.

take a screw driver, and with a hammer, notch the distributor cap & base, incase you ever want to easily return it to stock.

loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor (10mm? 12mm? I don't remember...)

with one hand on the gun, and looking in the hole, SLOWLY turn the distributor towards the firewall to advance, toward you to retard. using the '+2' mark (furthest to the bottom) as a reference, go a tiny bit just beyond that.

tighten the distributor, being careful not to move the cap.

recheck the timing, to make sure it didn't move while you were tightening the cap.

turn the car off, pull the paperclip out, and go test it.


the ignition advance setting on the timing light can also be used. to use that, simply set the advance that you want, (18, 19, etc) and line it up with the top-dead-center mark. (NOT THE +15 MARK!)

good luck fawkers! :bigthumb:
Spark plug wires go 1,2,3,4 from driver to passenger #1 spark plug wire is the first from driver side
 
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