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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, is it safe to do the “Ignition Timing Advance� thing in my 4th generation Prelude VTEC (everything is stock at the moment)? What is the pro and con of doing this in terms of the car’s engine for long term? I actually came across this in the following website

http://members.tripod.com/~Pre_ludE/pmods.html

According to this guy, by doing this you can actually increase your low-end power, and he insist who ever doing this must use 90 and higher octane fuel.

So, I just look into my car’s engine bay, but somehow I just can’t find the distributor and the cylinder head that he is talking about. I know I am stupid when it comes to engine, so don’t laugh ok:p . My question is can anyone help me to find the distributor and cylinder head please. Something like a bigger picture of the engine bay and then highlight these two parts for me.

Thanks in advance.

Cheers,

FLS297
 

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Ignition advance will give you more top end. I've never understood why some people say it gives you more low end.

you need to be mechanically inclined, with the right tools, to advance your ignition. mine is 4 degrees advanced (stock is 15 degrees, I'm at 19). I've had no problems except for maybe a little less grunt under 3K RPM.

the distributor is where all the ignition wires go into. (about 6 inches behind and to the right of the battery, if you're standing in front of the car.) The cly. head... well, um, is pretty much the part of the engine you can see.

sounds like you're a newbie, so stay away from doing it yourself. You need a good timing light, to know how to jump the service connector under the dash, and to BE CAREFUL.

take it to somone that knows what they are doing. in the meantime, learn a few things about your car

:cool:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hey JDM Lude, thanks for your reply man. Yes, I know I am a NEWBIE (may be the newest one on earth:laugh: ). Every time I open up the hood, I will stare at my engine and they just stare right back at me :confused: , is like two stranger looking at each other. I know I should know my engine better since I study them at university before. But I guess the aircraft engine and car engine just looks a bit different in terms of the way they assemble.

Anyway, do you think it is that hard to advance the Ignition Timing? But according to that guy’s instruction, it doesn’t seem that hard to achieve at all. Hey JDM Lude, is your engine still in stock form or you have modified it substantially in order to advance it 4 degrees? BTW, 1 degrees is 1 mm toward the firewall right?

PS. Maybe with your help I can pull this off by myself (still dreaming) ;).

Cheers,

FLS297
 

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HEY JDM

What is the deal with jumping the service connector?? what does this do??? IS this the same connector that we jump in order to get the CEL code if we happen to have a CEL?? why jump it?? I have my timing advanced almost fully towards the firewall with no problems at all... help me out??
 

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hey.. I just replaced my distributor but I didn't check the timing when I did it (thing crapped out on the side of the road as I was driving home from the parts dealer). the car drives fine. do I really need to check the timing or will it be noticable if it's off?
 

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ignition timing can KILL performance, or KILL your motor. example:

When I got my new motor, the shop forgot to check the timing. I drove the car around for a while, and it felt ok I guess.... I had been without my car for a month, and driving a focus, so it seemed quick.

I went to the track, and my BEST time was a 15.8. I was thinking my new motor was ****ed.

I went home, checked the timing, and it was about 8 degrees retarded. (VERY RETARDED! :mad: :laugh: ). I cranked it up to where its supposed to go, and went back to the track - ran a 14.7


I have a stock JDM motor with intake & V-AFC. your biggest concern from advancing the ignition will be detonation. USDM motors have less of a chance of doing that, as the compression is lower. I wouldn't go anything past 19-20 degrees though.

here is how to set your timing (this applies to a 4th generation prelude H22 - would guess the 5th gen is the same, or close...):

-drive around until you are almost out of gas

-stop at a gas station

-fill up with 93 octane

-drive home

-say 'damnit', get back in the car, and drive to the store and buy a timing light, with a digital readout for RPM.

-go back home

- turn your ignition off.

- look under the dash on the driver side, behind the center console. you will see two plugs hanging there. take the one with the brown & white wire going into it, and stick a paperclip into the plug to jump the harness (complete the circuit)

- turn the ignition on, but don't start the car

- the CE light should stay on

- start the car.

- turn off all lights, AC, fan, defroster, & stereo equipment in the car

- pull the small rubber stopper out of the front of the block. you will see it under the upper radiator hose, next to the header heat shield. yank that thing out of the block, there will be a hole there (don't stick your weewee in there, you'll fawking loose it)

take your timing light, hook it up per the instructions that came with the light (power from the battery, ground to the chassis) the #1 plug wire is the wire that goes to the 2nd spark plug from the passenger side. (the firing order goes, from passenger side to driver side, 2-1-3-4). the timing light clamp just needs to go over that wire.

the light will start flashing. if its a nice timing light, it will display your idle speed. (or you can use your V-AFC for that, if you have one). Adjust your idle screw on the throttle body so that you idle at 700 RPM (or as close as possible.)

turn off your garage light (or do this at night)

take a flashlight, and aim it inside that hole. you will see two a marker that looks like an arrow, on the right side. there are actually two arrows, your point of view should line those up.

take the flashing timing light, and aim it in the hole. turn off the flashlight.

the flywheel has marks like this:

------ <---- top dead center
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----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
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----- <---- 15 degrees (factory timing setting)
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----- <----- within spec mark (-2 degrees)
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.




you won't be able to see the top-dead-center mark, it will be hidden out of view of the small hole. make sure the timing light, if it has built-in ignition advance, is on '0'. The arrow on the block should be very near the center mark (15 degrees), assuming your timing has never been messed with.

take a screw driver, and with a hammer, notch the distributor cap & base, incase you ever want to easily return it to stock.

loosen the 3 bolts on the distributor (10mm? 12mm? I don't remember...)

with one hand on the gun, and looking in the hole, SLOWLY turn the distributor towards the firewall to advance, toward you to retard. using the '+2' mark (furthest to the bottom) as a reference, go a tiny bit just beyond that.

tighten the distributor, being careful not to move the cap.

recheck the timing, to make sure it didn't move while you were tightening the cap.

turn the car off, pull the paperclip out, and go test it.


the ignition advance setting on the timing light can also be used. to use that, simply set the advance that you want, (18, 19, etc) and line it up with the top-dead-center mark. (NOT THE +15 MARK!)

good luck fawkers! :bigthumb:
 

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JDM Lude said:
ok I just spent a long time on that - soooo.... TOP! ^^^^ :)
Thats a pretty good write up.

My timing light has a spark advance knob on it, I dial in the advance i want and rotate the dist till it matches with the stock timing mark. ie:

I want my timing advanced 4 degrees...
I turn the knob to +4
Rotate the dist to the stock timing mark.
Now my timing is 4 degrees advanced from stock.

I havn't had any problem with the 91 octane pee water out here in Cali with my JDM motor yet... :crossfingers:
 

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can someone explain compression ratio to me and its relevance?
i know it has to do with the reach of the piston but....im still a little cloudy
 

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First read this.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine1.htm


Now. Compression Ratio (CR)

When the piston starts upward from Bottom Dead Center(BDC) in compresses the air/fuel mixture in the cylinder. The amount it compresses the mixture is the compression ratio. ie: 10:1, 10.6:1 etc etc.
Usually, the high the CR the more power you make, but you also have to increase the octane of the fuel used to prevent detonation (which is when the fuel prematurely explodes).

More links for you.
http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine.htm
http://www.howstuffworks.com/engine5.htm
 

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JDM Lude said:

the ignition advance setting on the timing light can also be used. to use that, simply set the advance that you want, (18, 19, etc) and line it up with the top-dead-center mark. (NOT THE +15 MARK!)

good luck fawkers! :bigthumb:
To advance the timing with Timing gun I just set the timing gun to +4 dgr. advance and then look at the top-dead-center mark:confused: Why not the 15 degrees (factory timing setting)?
 

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my question is: is the timing mark suppose to be static or should it jump around a bit when you look at it through a timing light. Cause my timing is jumping around a little so it's hard to tell what degree i am at. and it doesn't help that my timing light doesn't have a rpm read out or an timing advance mode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hey JDM Lude, thanks for the detail explanation man:bigthumb:. But according to your instruction thing seems a bit more complicated than I initially expected. Anyway, I will look into it and see how it all work out.

Once again, thanks JDM Lude.

Cheers,

FLS297
 
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