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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well herro! Welcome to my write-up!

This is how to install power door locks into an S model. These are NOT pre-wired for power locks. First I will start by saying I am not an electrician. I am not responsible for any dead batteries, car fires, etc. I am currently TESTING this one my car. So far it’s all working properly. With that said, let’s get started.

NOTE: I will post a wiring diagram at the end of this write-up incase you guys have problems.

TIME: Varies. I had to do this over the course of a couple days. It will take at the very least 1 day to gather parts and everything.
DIFFICULTY:***

STEP 1: GATHER PARTS

Go to the junk yard and get:
1.) Door wiring harnesses, pass and driver
2.) Door lock actuators
3.) Switches
4.) Door lock control unit (located in driver’s door)

You will also need:
1.) Extra wire
2.) Wire cutters
3.) Electrical connectors
4.) Tape
5.) Chassis to ground connectors
6.) Fuse
7.) Coat hanger (optional)
8.) Zip ties!
9.) Basic Tools (duh)

STEP 2: REMOVE PARTS FROM ALL DOORS

If you went to a yard that already removes the parts for you, you might be unfamiliar. However, if you do this yourself you start by removing the door panel. 4 screws and the bezel for the window switches. Unplug all the wiring from the doors. Next, you will need to unplug 2 brown plugs on each side of the car. The passenger ones are in the harness above the pass. side kick panel. The driver’s ones are a bit harder to find. To find this, follow the wiring from the door into the chassis. It will end up being far up in the dash if it has never been unplugged. There’s a large one and a small one on both sides. Cut the wires AFTER the plugs. You want to use these plugs! Our S models will only have the bigger of the two.




NOTE: It may help to remove the top fender bolts from the chassis to reach the rubber grommets. It made things much easier for me.

There are some small gray fasteners holding the wiring in. Remove those too (duh). Wriggle the wiring out from both doors. Give yourself a good half-hour just to do this. It is not easy!

Remove the door lock actuator by removing the screws on the end of your door. There are also 4 metal bars that control the locks. Remove all of these. There are purple fasteners you simply turn to remove for 2 of these. The 3rd and 4th metal rod goes to the handle. Remove the door handle and unscrew. You may need to move the window track out of the way. DO NOT PULL IT OUT COMPLETELY. It is annoying to get back in. Simply remove the bolt from the bottom corner of the door and swing it out of the way.





The door lock control unit is the brown box under the mirrors. The rest should be pretty self explanatory. It looks like this:




STEP 3: INSTALL POWER DOOR HARNESSES INTO YOUR CAR

NOTE: If you have/are going to install JDM power folding mirrors (like me), this is an excellent time to run the wiring for the doors. DO THIS FIRST! You will need to run 4 wires to the passenger door and 3 to the driver! Take the tape off the harness and pull the wiring through the two rubber grommets. A coat hanger helps with this!

Wriggle all the wires back into your car from the power door harness. Again, THIS SUCKS, especially for the driver’s harness.

NOTE: A coat hanger might help with this step! The driver’s side is very hard to maneuver under the dash in the alternate dimension in between the outside of the car and the fuse box .

Reconnect all the plugs to the door.

STEP 4: RUN A WIRE TO THE BATTERY

This might be annoying for some of you folks. However, for my car there was a hole where an aftermarket alarm used to be. You might want to drill a hole or use one of the existing ones for the a/c or whatever… Undo the positive terminal and use a connector to fasten it to the terminal. Don’t forget to place your fuse on this wire!
This particular wire will go to your driver’s side foot well. Remember the extra plug we had to install? It goes to that one! The WHITE wire is where this needs to go. This is the constant for the lock control unit.

STEP 5: MORE WIRING!

Ok, now that we have our constant, we’re ready to do the rest of the wiring. In the passenger side harness, cut the yellow/red and white/red wire. You will need to hard wire these ones to the driver’s side extra plug in the foot well.

Also, wire the black/red and black/white wires to their like side on the two door harnesses.

Ground the passenger side black wire to the chassis. There is a hole for an electrical module underneath the kick panel. Use that one.

Now we have 3 wires we haven’t messed with on the driver’s harness. The blue/white one is to the ignition. I have found this one to be unneeded, but if you want you can connect it to an ignition source (radio, lighter, etc.). The other two are the green/red and green/blue. I’m not sure where these are supposed to go, but the system works without these. Make sure to block these two off so they don’t touch anything!

STEP 6: PUT EVERYTHING BACK TOGETHER

Reconnect all of your door wiring (ex. Window switches, door actuator, mirrors, door lock control unit). Since I don’t have a plastic thingy to secure my door lock unit, I just used zip ties. Secure all the wiring from the driver’s foot well and the passenger’s foot well with zip ties. Reinstall door panels. If you haven’t already, screw in your door lock switches to their place on the bezel. It’s two screws and there is a place to mount them on your non-door lock bezel.

STEP 7: GO TO STEAK N’ SHAKE

Oh, by the way, here's the wiring diagram take from the FSM. Page 1334 I think?



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