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On the 2nd Prelude
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I've posted in the other forums but gotten no help. Please give me some ideas.

My car idles a little low (like 600) and sounds like crap. almost like a diesel engine sounds. And there is a clicking, almost like it needs a valve adjustment, but I just did one, and I adjusted .001" below the window the helm gives, still noisy. It also makes like a knock sometimes when I first start it in the morning. It also randomly hesitates sometimes as of late, and pulling away from a stop has gotten a little more difficult as it seems like I've lost some off-idle power.

I checked the compression, I got 215-215-215-225, repeatable 3 times.
The car is a 97 with 94k miles. It's about to get the timing and balancer belts, water pump, the oil seals in that area, and the retaining clips replaced. It does whir a little when its cold in the morning, so I'll probably get the auto tensoiner replaced while they're in there.

What's causing the noise and the rough idle? The occasional knocking sound at startup? I'm at a total and complete loss and I have NO idea where to look next. I'm giving up on getting Teins to get all this crap done, I just hope it solves the problem. please, ideas. I don't have a lot of money to play around with, the teins were to be a gift, but now my gift is the service. I need to limit the possibilities as much as possible. :(
 

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8,213 Posts
Check your plugs/ignition (use a noid light). Also check fuel pressure/injector activity.
 

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On the 2nd Prelude
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2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
It's looking like joel wins the prize.

here's what I discovered today. I jacked the car up, and lined up the cams at TDC on #1. all looked good, the lined up nicely with the cover. But then I was like wait, that doesn't mean a damn thing, what if they were both off by the same amount.

So at this point I begine looking on the crank pulley for the timing mark. not finding one, I consult my trusty helm manual only to discover the mark is on the flywheel. after much poking around I discover the little window they're talking about that lets me check the flywheel. So, leaving the cams at the TDC marks, I checked the flywheel mark. what I found was (and you'll have to be semi familiar to get the ascii art ):


..............................................\ <--- upper pointer
.............................................< <--- lower pointer
...........flywheel mark ---> --+-- /

This was immeadiately followed by an exclamation of "Oh ****!!" and thanking the Lord almighty it wasn't further off.

So. did I skip both cam gears or just one (belt is tight between them) or the crank pulley? I'm just thankful it hadn't killed anything yet, I still get great compression in every cylinder. it still runs ok, just semi ****ty and it sounds like a diesel.

do we think I found the problem? lol.
 

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did you ever have anything messed with in the timing belt area? Now i've both done and watched a few timing belts (all on hondas) and as i recall, rarely do all those marks like up absolutely perfectly once everything is together. it's more of a one way deal(that is, line them up perfectly when you're putting it together). just how far off is that mark? If it's pretty fractional you might want to look around a bit more.
 

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On the 2nd Prelude
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2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
its off enough that the pointer points just outside the vertical lines on the flywheel.

like, the mark looks like a plus. The pointer is pointing just above the plus.

What I assumed is that you have room for a slight amount of error, i.e. so long as said pointer is pointing somewhere in the plus area, you're good to go. Mine is not pointing anywhere in that "plus" it is just outside it. That's enough for me tha I'd consider that a really bad thing.

I recently did a VERY rushed valve cover change, and I did get a slight amount of oil on the belt. I wiped it off as best I could, and forgot about it until now. Actually, this mess all started right around then. That's why I was asking in another thread if changing the cam seal could throw off the valve adjustment. it started ticking right after I did the cam seal and the cover change. doh, it's all coming together.

I also hear my damn tensioner whining uncontrollably in the cold mornings, so it's fully possible between the oil, high milage, and noisy tensioner that I've slipped a little.
 

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I don't recall exactly how far it was off, but when I changed my t-belt I lined up the pointer on the b-belt gear with the one on the engine housing and then checked the flywheel mark and it was a little off. I put more faith in the crank pointer when I set it at TDC to put the belt on.

Now it sounds to me from the problem, that this IS the problem. However, check things out as I did notice you barely move the crank and the flywheel turns a great distance.

For example when the b-belt pulley mark and the mark on the engine housing for TDC #1 are very close to being lined up you can go look at the flywheel mark and it will be off by a fiar bit. I remember in trying to line those marks up exactly I would turn the crank .5mm and the flywheel mark would move an inch.

So I guess just double check that its off before taking the t-belt off. If you pull they crank pulley and take that cover off you might could see the marks im talking about on the b-belt pulley and the engine housing.
 

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On the 2nd Prelude
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2,736 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Looks that way. The idle is still rough, just about all I have left to chech at this point in the mounts, fuel filter, and the EGR valve, everything else has been checked and passed inspection.

But the hesitation, high end power is all back. No more rattle and diesel engine. No more knocking sound in the morning. If it weren't for the idle, it would be tip top at this point.I had actually forgotten how hard VTEC hit, it surprised me the first time I hit it in second gear.
 
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