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Oh Hai.
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Well, I am going to go F/I.. yeah, I know, cheating
But I want to do it. For all of you that have considered or have built your motor, what did you do for it? What parts do I need? What do I need to pay attention to? I am thinking Pistons, Rods, Valve Springs, what else? I want to push 15-20 psi.


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Malken00
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by trehlo:
People with nice cars need their own state.</font>
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by malken00:
Well, I am going to go F/I.. yeah, I know, cheating
But I want to do it. For all of you that have considered or have built your motor, what did you do for it? What parts do I need? What do I need to pay attention to? I am thinking Pistons, Rods, Valve Springs, what else? I want to push 15-20 psi.


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Besides talking to our grand master Billy I'd say try Ryan Earl from the yahoo groups ML. He's done some SERIOUS build up of his motor for a high psi turbo. He'd have a lot of real world experience to help you I'm sure.
 

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rotorless rotorite :(
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by malken00:
Well, I am going to go F/I.. yeah, I know, cheating
But I want to do it. For all of you that have considered or have built your motor, what did you do for it? What parts do I need? What do I need to pay attention to? I am thinking Pistons, Rods, Valve Springs, what else? I want to push 15-20 psi.


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this topic has been posted before why don't you do a search
please don't hurt me


anyways you left out the sleeving of the block. and i think a block guard as well (aren't 5G H22's open deck?). and how about ARP Head Bolts? and of course Clutch and maybe flywheel. but you're running NOS aren't you? so you should already have those. and if not, BAAAAAAD Malken


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2001 EBP Prelude
(Base 5 sp)
Mods:
CF Altezza
AEM CAI
Tanabe G-Power Medallion
Ground Control Coilovers

[This message has been edited by BlueShadow (edited April 22, 2001).]
 

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i thought you were going with the JRSC???

Besides the build-up, you might want to think about doing a obd1 swap..to help out with the fuel curves (and you are going to need it if you are boostin 15-20 psi on the street)
 

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Oh Hai.
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by dka:
i thought you were going with the JRSC???

Besides the build-up, you might want to think about doing a obd1 swap..to help out with the fuel curves (and you are going to need it if you are boostin 15-20 psi on the street)
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I have the JRSC sitting in my garage.. and that is where it will stay.. I'm not going to use it.
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by malken00:
Well, I am going to go F/I.. yeah, I know, cheating
But I want to do it. For all of you that have considered or have built your motor, what did you do for it? What parts do I need? What do I need to pay attention to? I am thinking Pistons, Rods, Valve Springs, what else? I want to push 15-20 psi.

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Here's what I would suggest that you NEED:

First, rods and pistons are mandatory. I would do something like JE pistons or Endyn pistons with Endyn, Saenz, or Carillo rods ($$ for Saenz or Carillo). I wouldn't bother with Crower. Sorry, I am just not a fan of any of Crower's products.

With 15 or 20 psi of boost, some cylinder strengthening must be done. I would resleeve the block with ductile iron, and pin the sleeves. Don't use those huge sleeves that some shops are using. If the sleeves are too large, they take up too much room in the water jacket, and you will have cooling problems. Same thing goes for block guards. First, the block guards have to be fit to the block, even then, you will have cooling problems at the top of the cylinder bores. I would lean towards resleeving and pinning. I am not an expert on the subject, so your best bet is to talk to a shop that has done it. Stay away from block guards, though.

With that much boost, the stock ECU needs to go. It's the weak point. Look into a Haltech E6K or Speed Pro. Motec, if you can afford it. This way, you don't need an ignition or fuel computer.

Fuel injectors, RCE all the way.

Adjustable fuel pressure regulator

Hi output Bosche fuel pump

Custom turbo manifold with an external waste gate.

Ball bearing turbo.

3" custom exhaust

Oil cooler

J&S Ultra Safeguard.

Here's what I would suggest (for max power and reliability):

Headwork will help, but it's not required to run 20 psi. It will make the engine more efficient, though. Valve springs really aren't necessary unless you are going to run high RPMs. They don't hurt though (unless you run really high seat pressures).

Cams will a little less overlap couldn't hurt, or you could dial out some of the overlap with cam gears.

The intake manifold is quite restrictive, so a larger intake manifold would work nicely.

The cooling system will take a beating, so an upgraded radiator would be a good idea.

Modify the oil pump and water pump if you plan to run high RPMs, or if you plan to boost a lot in the mid to high RPMs continuously.

Throttle body, Spoon tapered ITR TB.

Balance and blueprint the entire engine.

Do not do:

Do not lighten the valves. Especially the exhaust valves. They get hot as hell, and there's no use removing material to lighten them.

Do not rely on a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to take care of your fuel needs.

If you want to do it right, **** can those check valves and get a stand alone ECU.

Do not try running 20 PSI without building up the bottom end!! (you already know this!
)

That's all I can think of right now, but I am sure I will remember something....

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by BlueShadow:
anyways you left out the sleeving of the block. and i think a block guard as well (aren't 5G H22's open deck?). and how about ARP Head Bolts? and of course Clutch and maybe flywheel. but you're running NOS aren't you? so you should already have those. and if not, BAAAAAAD Malken

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Don't use a block guard, you will have cooling problems, and if it isn't fitted properly, it can distort the cylinder walls. ARP doesn't make head bolts for our car.

A clutch, flywheel, and LSD, wouldn't hurt!

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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Hey I'm new here, friend showed me this site. I'm in the same position as you are. I have a FMAX turbo kit, only running 7psi right now because I'm not built up. But in order to run more than 12 psi, you will need to modify your fuel system. If you're squeezing nos, you should be ok. A site you might want to check out is www.hondata.com Other than that, all the basic motorwork. Rods, Pistons, Resleeve, Cams. Should also get your bottom end built up. What I'm doing is just sending my motor to Atomic (www.importreview.com) or (www.atomicperformance.com) and have them resleeve and built up my bottom end. Buying the rest of my stuff from Endyn.

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Jeffrey
1998 Honda Prelude
FMAX Turbo Kit
 

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Oh forgot, I'd get one big ass intercooler, radiator, and a good oil cooler. Delta wastegates will do really good also. Clutch and flywheel are needed if you want to put all that power to your wheels.

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Jeffrey
1998 Honda Prelude
FMAX Turbo Kit
 

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and remember...

ball bearing turbo's can't be rebuilt. so if yours goes bad, tough luck.

hondata and zdyne are working furiously (like jackson racing i bet) on getting out the obd1 and 2 ecu modifications. If you wait long enough (i'm hearing summer from zdyne) then you could do an ecu conversion and use that if you didn't want to go w/ a haltec.

get the kiwi manifold ifyou can afford it, it's about a grand or so. If not, try revhard's manifold. if not that, then try f-max's, and lastly drag's. and use a tial wastegate.

A lot of turbo integra's pushing 15psi don't have an oil cooler. You can get one, they work, but isn't needed.

You're stock cams are probably the best bet for now.

Most kits out there use 2.5" intercooler piping. anything larger is harder to fit and would require a wider intercooler. re read--our engine bay's suck ass.

i've been quoted 2900-3500 from various shops to build up my engine w/ sleeves, pistons, rods, blue printing, etc. the whole works.



[This message has been edited by Pure Lude (edited April 22, 2001).]
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Pure Lude:
A lot of turbo integra's pushing 15psi don't have an oil cooler. You can get one, they work, but isn't needed.
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I highly disagree. A turbo heats the oil up tremendously. You might be able to run the turbo without one, but it's a really good idea to plumb one in. Besides, it's a few hundred dollars in a several thousand dollar investment.

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
I highly disagree. A turbo heats the oil up tremendously. You might be able to run the turbo without one, but it's a really good idea to plumb one in. Besides, it's a few hundred dollars in a several thousand dollar investment.

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true.
 
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