<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by malken00:
Well, I am going to go F/I.. yeah, I know, cheating
But I want to do it. For all of you that have considered or have built your motor, what did you do for it? What parts do I need? What do I need to pay attention to? I am thinking Pistons, Rods, Valve Springs, what else? I want to push 15-20 psi.
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Here's what I would suggest that you NEED:
First, rods and pistons are mandatory. I would do something like JE pistons or Endyn pistons with Endyn, Saenz, or Carillo rods ($$ for Saenz or Carillo). I wouldn't bother with Crower. Sorry, I am just not a fan of any of Crower's products.
With 15 or 20 psi of boost, some cylinder strengthening must be done. I would resleeve the block with ductile iron, and pin the sleeves. Don't use those huge sleeves that some shops are using. If the sleeves are too large, they take up too much room in the water jacket, and you will have cooling problems. Same thing goes for block guards. First, the block guards have to be fit to the block, even then, you will have cooling problems at the top of the cylinder bores. I would lean towards resleeving and pinning. I am not an expert on the subject, so your best bet is to talk to a shop that has done it. Stay away from block guards, though.
With that much boost, the stock ECU needs to go. It's the weak point. Look into a Haltech E6K or Speed Pro. Motec, if you can afford it. This way, you don't need an ignition or fuel computer.
Fuel injectors, RCE all the way.
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
Hi output Bosche fuel pump
Custom turbo manifold with an external waste gate.
Ball bearing turbo.
3" custom exhaust
Oil cooler
J&S Ultra Safeguard.
Here's what I would suggest (for max power and reliability):
Headwork will help, but it's not required to run 20 psi. It will make the engine more efficient, though. Valve springs really aren't necessary unless you are going to run high RPMs. They don't hurt though (unless you run really high seat pressures).
Cams will a little less overlap couldn't hurt, or you could dial out some of the overlap with cam gears.
The intake manifold is quite restrictive, so a larger intake manifold would work nicely.
The cooling system will take a beating, so an upgraded radiator would be a good idea.
Modify the oil pump and water pump if you plan to run high RPMs, or if you plan to boost a lot in the mid to high RPMs continuously.
Throttle body, Spoon tapered ITR TB.
Balance and blueprint the entire engine.
Do not do:
Do not lighten the valves. Especially the exhaust valves. They get hot as hell, and there's no use removing material to lighten them.
Do not rely on a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to take care of your fuel needs.
If you want to do it right, **** can those check valves and get a stand alone ECU.
Do not try running 20 PSI without building up the bottom end!! (you already know this!
)
That's all I can think of right now, but I am sure I will remember something....
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org