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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My 01 EBP SH (always updating) 03/30/2012

Updated 03/30/2012

Photo Update(03/30/2012)

Photo Update(03/15/2012)

Photo Update(11/21/2011)

Photo Update(09/12/2011)

Photo Update(08/09/2011)

:( Type S strut bar and new daily driver :)(07/11/2011)

Yokohama Advan RG-D 17x9 wheels installed!! (06/11/2011)

LED Taillight Retrofit (05/30/2011)

Ceramic Coated Mugen Header Installed (04/23/2011)

Photos and EDM headlight cover teaser (01/02/2011)

Mugen Exhaust Installed (11/24/2010)

Suspension Updates (10/18/2010)

Small EDM and Spoon Additions/photos (10/10/2010)

Interior Updates (08/19/2010)

More Pictures (07/19/2010)

Brake and Mugen Updates (07/19/2010)

Exterior Makeover (10/25/2009)

Annual Exterior Detail (6/1/2009)

Very Small Addition, see below

Before and After Car Wash pictures, see below

Present day Pictures: ;)





01/27/2008

I decided to do a full exterior detail of my vehicle thanks to motivation by Mcnab's thread

My goal was to remove some micromarring and swirls that my paint developed since I purchased the vehicle. To help with this, I decided to do plenty of research on the autopia forums and purchased myself a PC 7424 polisher to do some paint correction. I wasn't able to remove some of the deeper scratches I had on my hood; but I pretty much eliminated all of the marring and light scratches. I'm still fairly new to machine polishing, so next time I'll probably end up trying some other products for polishing.


Here is what I used:

Washed with Optimum No Rinse
Clayed using Clay Magic Clay kit
Washed again with ONR
For Heavier swirls and scratches used Menzerna SIP Polish with the PC
Lighter swirls and marring used finer polish Menzerna 106FF polish, PC
Sealed with Collinite 845 Insulator Wax

On to the pictures:














 

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Looking good bro! You achieved some very good correction there! You'll find that deep scratches can't be removed very easily without a rotary polisher and wetsanding, but if the car isy our daily driver, there's no point trying to achieve perfection(it can become an obsession hehe). You're far better off retaining your clearcoat and worrying less about deep scratches. That paint looks amazing tho! Im very impressed!

I cant' wait until spring and Im going to give it a good polishing as well.

I haven't' tried any of the Collinite fleet wax's, but hear they've got VERY good durability and gloss. Looking sharp as always, you did an awesome job for your first time with a polisher, that finish would rival even the seasoned vets!

Wax on!
 

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Looking good bro! You achieved some very good correction there! You'll find that deep scratches can't be removed very easily without a rotary polisher and wetsanding, but if the car isy our daily driver, there's no point trying to achieve perfection(it can become an obsession hehe). You're far better off retaining your clearcoat and worrying less about deep scratches. That paint looks amazing tho! Im very impressed!

I cant' wait until spring and Im going to give it a good polishing as well.

I haven't' tried any of the Collinite fleet wax's, but hear they've got VERY good durability and gloss. Looking sharp as always, you did an awesome job for your first time with a polisher, that finish would rival even the seasoned vets!

Wax on!
Thanks man. I appreciate it. Thanks to your thread for getting me pumped up about doing a more in depth detail.
I have to say I'm impressed so far with the the 845wax; I poured some water over the hood and was just amazed at how it beads. I plan on doing another coat on my next wash.


I think I'm hooked though, I plan on doing a full detail for my sisters car soon. I'm looking into some recommendations on "AIO" products to do light swirl removal and sealing. I've heard good things about Klasse AIO and the Optimum Poli-seal. Whats your take on these products?
 

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Thanks man. I appreciate it. Thanks to your thread for getting me pumped up about doing a more in depth detail.
I have to say I'm impressed so far with the the 845wax; I poured some water over the hood and was just amazed at how it beads. I plan on doing another coat on my next wash.


I think I'm hooked though, I plan on doing a full detail for my sisters car soon. I'm looking into some recommendations on "AIO" products to do light swirl removal and sealing. I've heard good things about Klasse AIO and the Optimum Poli-seal. Whats your take on these products?
AIO has almost no correction ability. It's purpose is soley chamiecal cleaner. It has mild protection abilities, but AIO is usually meant as a prep BEFORE putting down Klasse's SG (Sealent Glaze). I wouldn't recommend SG as a sealent though, as it's a very finicky product. If you put on too much, it takes brute strength to buff off, and it's very hard to get on the correct "thin layer". With that said, it does protect quite well.

Im partially bias to the Optimum line simply because I've had so much success with it their product line. I only ever tried a sample bottle of the Opti-Seal. I wasn't that impressed with it. It was introduced as a competitor to the Zaino ClearSeal. I personally don't find these spray wax's as durable as paste or sealent. The only spray wax I've really liked was the Optimum Car Wax. I will use it from time to time if I want to wax and don't have the time to crack out a can of wax, or apply a sealent. Durability on most spray wax's (Optiseal included) is a little less than paste or sealents (in my opinion).

If you're looking for something with very light correction I would go back to the Optimum Polish and ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze I had mentioned to you in my thread. With OP, you can determine how much "cut" you want be using a more or less aggresive pad. Get the pad primed with OP, then put on a little bit of the RMG. Not much, just enough so that it mixes in. This works wonders on every colour, but you'll especially love the results on blue. The OP will do some light cutting, and the RMG(as it's a glaze) will fill in some of the remaining swirls, and leave it with an awesome glow.

Here's a closeup shot of my skylines paint after doing some correction on it, and finishing with OP/RMG. As you can see, it makes the metallic pearl in the paint REALLY pop out.



As far as "protection" it seems you like to go to sealents. In that case "Jeff Werkstatt" lineup a try. They basically "reformulated" the aging Klasse formulation into two products, Prime and Acrylic Jett. Prime is basically AIO, and the Jett is SG. Although their lineup is FAR easier to work with, and looks and works better than the AIO and SG combo. Take a gander through the reviews on Autopia about these. For the OP/RMG Mix, take a look at a few cars done by "Scottwax" as he is where I first learned about the OP/RMG Mix.

Good luck and happy buffing! car looks amazing!

Oh, and I can tell you're getting a case of the "OCD" or as we call it, obsessive compulsive detailing. How can I tell? Most people NEVER clean the inside of the rims.



Points for cleaning the INSIDE of the rim. IT's thing like that I always notice :)
 

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Hey I sometimes clean the inside of the rim.

Your car looks absolutely perfect mate. Love it love it love it!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Is that a type-s front lip and stock side/rear skirts? First time I'm seeing an EBP SH.
Yup, its a Type S lip and stock SH painted sides and rear. :)


AIO has almost no correction ability. It's purpose is soley chamiecal cleaner. It has mild protection abilities, but AIO is usually meant as a prep BEFORE putting down Klasse's SG (Sealent Glaze). I wouldn't recommend SG as a sealent though, as it's a very finicky product. If you put on too much, it takes brute strength to buff off, and it's very hard to get on the correct "thin layer". With that said, it does protect quite well.

Im partially bias to the Optimum line simply because I've had so much success with it their product line. I only ever tried a sample bottle of the Opti-Seal. I wasn't that impressed with it. It was introduced as a competitor to the Zaino ClearSeal. I personally don't find these spray wax's as durable as paste or sealent. The only spray wax I've really liked was the Optimum Car Wax. I will use it from time to time if I want to wax and don't have the time to crack out a can of wax, or apply a sealent. Durability on most spray wax's (Optiseal included) is a little less than paste or sealents (in my opinion).

If you're looking for something with very light correction I would go back to the Optimum Polish and ClearKote Red Moose Machine Glaze I had mentioned to you in my thread. With OP, you can determine how much "cut" you want be using a more or less aggresive pad. Get the pad primed with OP, then put on a little bit of the RMG. Not much, just enough so that it mixes in. This works wonders on every colour, but you'll especially love the results on blue. The OP will do some light cutting, and the RMG(as it's a glaze) will fill in some of the remaining swirls, and leave it with an awesome glow.

Here's a closeup shot of my skylines paint after doing some correction on it, and finishing with OP/RMG. As you can see, it makes the metallic pearl in the paint REALLY pop out.

As far as "protection" it seems you like to go to sealents. In that case "Jeff Werkstatt" lineup a try. They basically "reformulated" the aging Klasse formulation into two products, Prime and Acrylic Jett. Prime is basically AIO, and the Jett is SG. Although their lineup is FAR easier to work with, and looks and works better than the AIO and SG combo. Take a gander through the reviews on Autopia about these. For the OP/RMG Mix, take a look at a few cars done by "Scottwax" as he is where I first learned about the OP/RMG Mix.


Good luck and happy buffing! car looks amazing!

Oh, and I can tell you're getting a case of the "OCD" or as we call it, obsessive compulsive detailing. How can I tell? Most people NEVER clean the inside of the rims.
Wow, you weren't kidding about that metallic flake pop on the OP/RMG mix. Your skyline looks great. Definitely have to give that a try in the future. Makes me wish I can go back and try it out on my car; but its too bad I just sealed it last weekend with the 845. How often do you recommend polishing your vehicle?

Thanks for the heads up on the JW products. I have a sample of the poli-seal that I would like to try out. Were you referencing that or the opti-seal spray sealant?





Thanks to all for the nice comments.
 

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Wow, you weren't kidding about that metallic flake pop on the OP/RMG mix. Your skyline looks great. Definitely have to give that a try in the future. Makes me wish I can go back and try it out on my car; but its too bad I just sealed it last weekend with the 845. How often do you recommend polishing your vehicle?


.
Polish as LEAST as possible. Everytime you polish your vehicle, no matter how light of a polish (with the exception of a glaze), you're removing very very microfine layers of clearcoat. The more clearcoat you remove, the more prone your paint is to premature failure. On a daily driven car, or car that is driven a lot, I typically like to do one "major correction" to undo years of damage (usually to a previous owner). SO this would be compounding etc then moving up to a finishing polish. Then once every spring I will do some light polishing to remove the swirling.

This is why I am VERY VERY anal about my washing techniques. Marring is induced by improper washing methods. This is why I use the foamcannon on my car as it provides the MOST lubrication for the dirt on the car to be pulled AWAY from the car and rinsed away. I also use very plush wash mitts (Edge schMitts) for this reason (and a 2 bucket system with grit guards). If you can AVOID putting the swirls in your paint in the first place, you have less polishing to do, and ultimately less clearcoat removed.

Hope that helps :)
 

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Washed the car with ONR this past weekend after several days of heavy rain last week.
Here is a before picture of how dirty the car was:


And after washing with Optimum No Rinse:



Here are some additional pictures taken the same day during sunset. :)








 

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Ahh very nice I see you found the ONR :) I started using ONR a couple years ago, and have really enjoyed it. The first time you use that stuff I found myself thinking "ahh should I REALLY be doing this". Something about not rinsing etc just threw me off. But the ONR doens't marr at all, I've tried it on Jet black vehicles, and it's pretty good in the right dilutions.

I find I will use ONR in the early spring when my black car gets nailed with polin and I just want to do a quick wash. If my car gets dirtier than that, I will crack out the foam cannon for maximum suds and lubrication.

Also, if you havent' already found out, dedicated a mitt entirely to ONR washes. You'll notice that with ONR, the dirt gets sucked up into the mitt, and tends not to release from it like normal soap, so you're mitt will get quite dirty.

Looking really good again tho! Im impressed! How do you like the slickness that ONR leaves?
 

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Ahh very nice I see you found the ONR :) I started using ONR a couple years ago, and have really enjoyed it. The first time you use that stuff I found myself thinking "ahh should I REALLY be doing this". Something about not rinsing etc just threw me off. But the ONR doens't marr at all, I've tried it on Jet black vehicles, and it's pretty good in the right dilutions.

I find I will use ONR in the early spring when my black car gets nailed with polin and I just want to do a quick wash. If my car gets dirtier than that, I will crack out the foam cannon for maximum suds and lubrication.

Also, if you havent' already found out, dedicated a mitt entirely to ONR washes. You'll notice that with ONR, the dirt gets sucked up into the mitt, and tends not to release from it like normal soap, so you're mitt will get quite dirty.

Looking really good again tho! Im impressed! How do you like the slickness that ONR leaves?
Thanks man. I'm been very impressed with ONR; it leaves the paint very clean and slick. I have been using a combo of HD grout sponge and MF chenille wash mitt with the ONR. I have noticed that ONR will leave a slight thin film on the windows and the paint if its not dried properly. I learned my lesson and started drying with 2 passes with an Excel WW Monterey drying towel then a plush MF drying towel. I'm using the two bucket method (still afraid to use a single bucket), but I need to get myself a grit guard though.

But overall ONR has been a major time saver for me.
 

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But overall ONR has been a major time saver for me.
I started using OCW (Optimum Car Wax) as a last drying stage after ONRing. So I wipe the panel down with ONR, then use a WW to get most of the moisture, then as I completely dry the panel, I'll give it a quick spritz of OCW, and buff the panel out with a really plush MF. This doesn't add any time to what you're already doing, and you get a coat of wax on it while your doing it. If you do this everytime you wash, it will really help keep up the protection on your paint.

I find OCW doesn't last that long, so it's good to use during washes to sort of boost the protection of the layer of wax/sealent you have on currently.

How is your Collinite holding up btw?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
The 845IW is working great. The whole car was beading like crazy during the heavy rain that we had. It was an amazing sight to see all the beads of water sheet off the hood and the car when I drove it on the freeway. :D
 
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