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yield said:
I think what we are trying to say is that it probably won't matter too much. Unless you do a lot of track days or something. I had a plastic one get seized onto my hub after a track day (don't know if it melted or what?) but I consider them a wear item (i.e., I expect them to break,etc. fairly often) so I'm prepared to replace them yearly. If you're worried about it just get the metal ones and call it a day.
then why dont u just get metal ones then insted of replacing the plastics ones all the time? any specific reason?
 

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The aluminum ones aren't invincible either - they can become seized onto the hub (like when it's cold out), and you end up fuxoring them trying to get them off.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Exactly - it's like rotors. To me they are a wear item and no matter what they're made of I'll probably be replacing them repeatedly. It's just the name of the game.
 

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well, you can call up the place you bought your rims and ask them whats your volks wheel bore size and your cars wheel hub size.
 

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then contact volks themselves or maybe the website has it. or better yet, just measure it yourself. as for your wheel hub size, im sure most of the 5th gen guys should know it.
 

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I wonder if that (the lack of a hub-centric ring) on my RX7 wheels could be the cause of my lug nut/wheel stud phenomenon?

History - I had to snap off my 4th wheel stud yesterday. For some reason, my lug nuts keep getting frozen to the wheel studs. My passenger side front wheel only has 3 lugs holding it on now. I have some hub-centric rings from my old Mille Miglia HT3...so I wonder if I can get a machine shop to match that bore to the RX7 wheels?
 

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I've ALWAYS stressed the fact of using hub centric rings. Some people get away without using them, others get a vibration or worse, shearing off a lug nut. I've heard first hand cases for both results...

From Jackson Racing....

Obviously, there's more to chossing wheels than bolting on a new style. In fact, the wrong wheel/tire combination can actually make your car dangerous to drive, and damage the suspension. So, to stay out of trouble, you should consider a few key areas, then make an informed decision.

Construction of the wheel hub is critical. A wheel will bolt onto your Honda or Acura if it merely has the correct offset and bolt pattern. But for proper operation, it must also have the correct "hub center". This hole is the middle of the wheel should be a snug, precise fit over a matching surface on the hub, thus ensuring the wheel's exact, "hubcentric" position. If it's a loose fit, the wheel is likely to be installed slight-off-center, and can often result in a serious out-of-round, out-of-balance vibration at common vehicle speeds.

Unfortunately, hub center design is one area where most wheel manufacturers let you down. In order to make one rim fit several different cars, they enlarge this hole by as much as 3mm - great for their profits, but not your car. Know anybody put Enkei, MSW, Ronal, Centre, Riken or other big-name wheels on a Honda or Acura, then had an incurable vibration between 60 and 70mph?


Plastic center rings are find but if you do track on those wheels, they can melt away on onto your hub. I would just spend a little more money and get metal rings. I've purchased rings before from www.TireRack.com. Just give the measurements and you'll be all set. It's $3.00 a ring for plastic and $6.00 for metal.

Keith
 

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yield said:
For example, I found out that Rota has several different bore sizes. The two that are applicable to us would be 67.1mm and 73mm.
Any chance you know what the correct ring would be to get for a 17" Rota SubZero?
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I'm pretty sure it's 73, mine were. Here's an inventory list from one store that should be able to help rota buyers out: http://www.jlbmotorsports.com/rims/rota-stock.html

The number before the color is the bore (e.g., 56.1, 67.1, 73), although sometimes they only include the bore when they begin a new model size and don't include it for the rest of the colors at the same size.
 

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I wonder if that (the lack of a hub-centric ring) on my RX7 wheels could be the cause of my lug nut/wheel stud phenomenon?

History - I had to snap off my 4th wheel stud yesterday. For some reason, my lug nuts keep getting frozen to the wheel studs. My passenger side front wheel only has 3 lugs holding it on now. I have some hub-centric rings from my old Mille Miglia HT3...so I wonder if I can get a machine shop to match that bore to the RX7 wheels?
Just for a little bit of closure, getting the hubcentric rings machined to fit did solve the problem. Even though the rings were no more than a 1mm or 1.5mm in thickness.
 

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I wonder if that (the lack of a hub-centric ring) on my RX7 wheels could be the cause of my lug nut/wheel stud phenomenon?

History - I had to snap off my 4th wheel stud yesterday. For some reason, my lug nuts keep getting frozen to the wheel studs. My passenger side front wheel only has 3 lugs holding it on now. I have some hub-centric rings from my old Mille Miglia HT3...so I wonder if I can get a machine shop to match that bore to the RX7 wheels?
Ide have to say it has nothing to do with hubcentric rings and more with no apply anti-seize compound to the thread before putting on your lug nuts. you can get anti-stuff at any car shop and that should help a ton with your lug nuts siezing onto your studs.
 

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I tried the T1R wheel spacer kit that claimed it was hubcentric but it wasn't. The inner bore was too big and they weren't lugcentric either.

I have since traded those for the H&R wheel spacer kit which is suppose to have a 64mm inner bore measurement. I have yet to try these.

Just a note, when using wheel spacers its a good idea to install extended lug studs. I'm using the ARP extended lug studs...
 

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wow guys this has really made me wonder , when i got my new wheels no-one ever mentioned this , i havent noticed any vibrations but i havent had the car over 65-70 mph . now i should go where i got my wheels and see if they have a set for theese . thanks to all for all of this info im learning , it always helps
 
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