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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i have this J&S and i was wondering if the dip switches are the same as on their website? and what settings you guys might have them on like retard all, or individual. 10 or 20 degrees max retard and supposedly 3 and 4 should be up but i just want to verify that the classic follows the safe instructions
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
actually i got it free with the turbo kit i bought. anyhow do you know they still sell the classic system except they call it version 0? they have it on their website
 

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i have the classic version i believe and i can tell you exactly what dip switch is what, but it will have to be tomorrow after i get done with finals
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
okay tell me if this is correct

Switch 1 up sets the knock control range to 20°. When knock is detected, the unit retards 2, 4, or 6 degrees per ping. Set #1 down, and it retards 1, 2, or 3 degrees per ping, 10° max.

Switch 2 up and the unit retards all cylinders by the same amount. Down, and it retards only the cylinders that are knocking. You should notice a big increase in power with #2 down.


switch 3 for honda must be UP
switch 4 for honda must be UP


okay so with this regard what is the favorable settings for a fully tuned hondata? and how about sensitivity i wa unable to hook this up before being boosted but shark says about set it at about 10:30. Should i get any lights with the best sensitivity? or just lights every now and then IE: like boosting in 5th which is a nono
 

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I have my first 4 pins up, and the 5th down.

I have pin #2 down also, because there will be no diff in power if you are not knocking. If I'm detonating I don't care about power,,, I want safty.

I Have my sensitivity at about 10:30 maby 10:015.
At 11:00 I get a light everytime I hit vtec then it goes away regardless of how much I retard the timing and what gas I'm using.

Also,,, why is boosting in 5th a nono???
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
i can only say the engine is under heavy load in 5th gear at WOT and adding boost to that combination for a sustained period of time can equal a blown engine on a stock bottom end

this is an old rule of thumb for boosted hondas i am not quite sure the stipulations but i wouldnt do it because i have seen way to many blown h22s

also how can the J&S actually tell which cylinder is knocking? there is only one knock sensor near #1 cylinder. And how can it retard individually? since there is only one ignition wire that it splices into? On th four channel versions i can understand how it works but on the honda model im confused on if this actually works how they say it does
 

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Switch 1 controls the maximum amount of knock retard. Up is 20°. Down is for 10°

Use the 10° mode if you have a good tune. Use the 20° mode if you are just starting your tuning.

Switch 2 up is for forced induction, down is for n/a

Switches 3 and 4 control the amount of midrange retard. Vacuum also modulates the amount. Full amount allowed if the vaccum drops below 3 inches, none allowed if the vacuum exceeds 10 inches.

3 4 Retard
up up 8°
up dn 6°
dn up 4°
dn dn 2°

The retard comes in gradually, starting at 2500 RPM, and is all in by 3500 RPM. At 4000 RPM, the unit starts re-advancing, and is back to stock by 5000 RPM.

Example, If you are at 3000 RPM, and select 8° (S3 and S4 both up), and your vacuum gauge reads 10 inches, result is no midrange retard. Step on the gas a little, so the vacuum drops to 6.5 inches, and you will get 4° of midrange retard. Step down a little more until the vacuum drops to 3 inches, and you get the full 8°. Step down further, to go into boost, and now the boost retard kicks in, adding however many degrees of retard you have the boost retard set to. The two together could give you as much as 28° of retard. If you are running crappy gas, the knock retard could kick in, adding as much as another 20° knock retard. The unit can retard as much as 48°, if you add them all together

Switch 5 selects the triggering edge. Up and the unit triggers on the rising edge of the input pulse. Down and it triggers on the falling edge. Up for Honda, down for Toyota/Miata/RX7.

Switch 6 configures either a pullup or a pulldown resistor on the input. Up for Honda/Miata, down for Toyota/RX7. If the sixth position is empty, the effect is the same as switch 6 up. If the sixth position has a jumper wire, the efect is the same as switch 6 down.

The start knob lets you adjust at what boost level the boost retard will actually start. Fully CCW, and the boost retard comes in at 0psi. FullyCW, and it won't start until 10 psi. The empty connector pin labeled "TP" lets you calibrate the start point. If the TP reads 5 volts, the start point will be 5 psi.

The "Rate" knob adjusts the retard per psi. Fully CW, and it's 2° per psi (20° max boost retard). Fully CCW, and no boost retard.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
the settings above are good for the other versions

it looks like we covered all the versions and settings maybe time to FI FAQ it
 
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