I would just like to know, for all 5th gen owners with AEM pullies, what kind of systems if any you have in the car. Currently, I run one amplifier, (50x4) with a sub. I'm not sure if its too demanding for power, or just fine. I don't want my headlights to be dimming with the bass, or my music cutting out. I would prefer the pullies gain over the music, however the system is already paid for, so I have to keep it. Anyone?
Is my 50x4 watts audio system too much to by AEM tru-power pullies?
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I had a Fosgate Punch 250 running mono at 410 watts, and a Punch 400 running 4x100 for a total of 810 watts. without a CAP, and I ran the AEM pullies with no probelms at all. This was also with a Alpine in dash DVD player, monitor, and other electronics. i had no problems at all. of course I could have been lucky too. But with a 50x4 amp, there will be no problems at all.
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I am pushing a 400W mono amp and a 50x4 amp bridged to 200x2, totalling 800W, and I have 4ga wire running to these.
I also have AEM pulleys. I don't have a cap.
My headlights dim just a little when the bass hits hard, but only if I have the stereo turned up all the way.
------------------
Chris
Premium White '99 base model Prelude
· AEM Cold Air Intake
· Type S shiftknob
· ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate - Street/Strip Disc
· Fidanza Flywheel
· Neuspeed Front Strut Tower Brace
· AEM Tru Power Pulleys
Stereo:
· Sony CDX-M750
· Precision Power PC4400.2 powering:
· Infinity Kappa 60.2cs 6.5" Components.
· Precision Power PC1400.2 powering:
· Single Image Dynamics IDQ 12 in a custom sealed box.
[email protected]
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I also have AEM pulleys. I don't have a cap.
My headlights dim just a little when the bass hits hard, but only if I have the stereo turned up all the way.
------------------
Chris
Premium White '99 base model Prelude
· AEM Cold Air Intake
· Type S shiftknob
· ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate - Street/Strip Disc
· Fidanza Flywheel
· Neuspeed Front Strut Tower Brace
· AEM Tru Power Pulleys
Stereo:
· Sony CDX-M750
· Precision Power PC4400.2 powering:
· Infinity Kappa 60.2cs 6.5" Components.
· Precision Power PC1400.2 powering:
· Single Image Dynamics IDQ 12 in a custom sealed box.
[email protected]
FOR SALE
C'mon guys! It's not about watts here, it's about amperage that those amps draw. We have a 100amp (5th Gen) alternator and underdriving it would just lessen the power output. If you're drawing under 60 amps I wouldn't worry about it, if you're drawing more I would start to become iffy about putting them in. My car's lights used to dim before I put a 1.0 farhad cap in, so pulleys are out of the question in my mind for my application.
~Doug
~Doug
In my old car (91 2.0SI), I was running a Fosgate 400A4 - at 4 ohms pushes 50*4 (rated, actually higher for Fosgate). This worked with no problem.
I then put in a sub and bridged the two rear channels to it, which upped the draw a little more, still with no problems.
The final stage, I ran the 400a4 as originally set, put in a Fosgate 250a2 bridged into the 12" sub. The "birth certificate" for the 250 had it rated at well over 400W. That's when things started getting funky, then again, I was pushing well over[b/] 600W. Lights would dim when the bass hit and I ran the battery down with the car running if I played it really loud for extended periods (over 45 min).
The bottom line is that if you're only running a 50*4 amp, don't sweat it.
As far as amps being the main concern, sure that's totally true. But putting more and/or higher powered amplifiers will draw more amperes (amps) from the system. It's been a while since physics, but I believe the relationship is:
Volts * Amps = Watts
Since most accessories, including stereos and amps are in the same volt range (12 -14V), if you have a higher Wattage, you're going to be drawing more amps off the system.
As far as the AC question, the AC shouldn't matter too much since it's mechanically driven.
I then put in a sub and bridged the two rear channels to it, which upped the draw a little more, still with no problems.
The final stage, I ran the 400a4 as originally set, put in a Fosgate 250a2 bridged into the 12" sub. The "birth certificate" for the 250 had it rated at well over 400W. That's when things started getting funky, then again, I was pushing well over[b/] 600W. Lights would dim when the bass hit and I ran the battery down with the car running if I played it really loud for extended periods (over 45 min).
The bottom line is that if you're only running a 50*4 amp, don't sweat it.
As far as amps being the main concern, sure that's totally true. But putting more and/or higher powered amplifiers will draw more amperes (amps) from the system. It's been a while since physics, but I believe the relationship is:
Volts * Amps = Watts
Since most accessories, including stereos and amps are in the same volt range (12 -14V), if you have a higher Wattage, you're going to be drawing more amps off the system.
As far as the AC question, the AC shouldn't matter too much since it's mechanically driven.
The AC compressor is no problem, but the fan on full speed might be. No different than winter, though.
A lot of people with weaker alternators get a capacitor, and I would think that regardless of whether you have pulleys, it would be a good idea to have one.
A lot of people with weaker alternators get a capacitor, and I would think that regardless of whether you have pulleys, it would be a good idea to have one.
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