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woop woop!
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Discussion Starter #1
Bleh, back here again... Some of you read in another thread I was having problems that all point to a bad ignitor... Originally I thought it was bad connections to it, but it turns out, that wasn't the case.

Anywho, I bought this ignitor maybe 3 or 4 months ago so it's still fairly new as far as age/usage is concerned. I know it could have become defective since then, but I just want to be doublely sure before I drop another $70 on a new one.

I tried reading helms and searching all over, couldn't find the answers I was looking for... I just have no idea how to entirely check if it's good or bad... can someone please give me a quick rundown with some details on how to check it? IE using a multimeter and how I would use it to check?

appreciate any help guys!... And kragen doesn't check ignitor and I don't think autozone would either =/ ...
 

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Old School
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1,086 Posts
what i found here... pertains to a civic, but it may work for you...

Procedures to check if your Igniter Unit or Ignition Coil is bad.

In order to reach the Igniter Unit, you should remove the Distributor Cap and Leak Cover, which is a plastic thing just under the Rotor (it might help if you remove the rotor as well). Ignition Coil is on top of the distributor (you'll only see it if you remove the Distributor Cap) and the Igniter Unit is a match-box like unit, just under the rotor. You can see it once you take the Leak Cover off. Now you should see 4 wires connected to the igniter: WHT, BLK/YEL, WHT/BLU and BLU.

Now here is how to diagnose problems with the Igniter Unit:
Check for voltage between the BLK/YEL wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltate, check for an open in the BLK/YEL wire between the igniter unit and the ignition switch.
Next, check for voltage between the WHT/BLU wire and the body ground with the ignition switch on. There should be battery voltage. If there is no voltage, check for: faulty ignition coil or an open in the WHT/BLU wire between the igniter unit and the ignition coil.
Next, check for continuity between the WHT wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the WHT wire between the igniter unit and the ECU or poor ground.
Next, check for continuity between the BLU wire and the body ground. There should be continuity. If there is no continuity, check for: and open in the BLU wire between the igniter unit and the tachometer (or the A/T control unit) or poor ground.
And if all continuity and voltage tests are normal (with a known good 50A fuse), but the engine won't start - replace the igniter unit.

Here is how to diagnose problems with the Ignition Coil:
There is a BLK/YEL and WHT/BLU wires connected to the coil. Call the terminal to which the BLK/YEL is connected terminal A and the other one terminal B. The circular thing on the side of a coil is a secondary winding terminal. Switch ignition to OFF. Remove the screws and disconnect the wires from terminals A and B. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within these specifications: between the A and B terminals - 0.63-0.77 ohms, and between terminal A and secondary winding terminal - 9,760-14,640 ohms.
 

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woop woop!
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3,697 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
Hey merlin, appreciate you lookin around for me. They have similar instructions in my helms, but the main thing I was looking for was how to exactly check the voltage between the wires... Like if I had a multimeter, how would I go about doing that. I know it has the + and - terminals like a battery tester, but how would I apply this to the wires on the ignitor?

Anywho, I already purchased another ignitor and heat sink from hparts about 10 minutes ago as I'm pressed for time. Was hoping to have gotten some further details on how to test it within the last day or 2 before I actually bought yet another one- as I don't have a ride to school/work since my car isn't really good to drive with all its bogging and dying problems. I just didn't want something to happen while I was on the freeway ehhe. But yah, blindly throwing another brand new ICM at the car... HOPEfully it works... ::crosses fingers::

Thanks again ^
 

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Old School
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to check the voltage, it should work either way, with one way reading a negative voltage vs. the other way reading positive... tracing the wires on a wiring diagram would help with multimeter placement... positive lead goes on the battery side, usually...
 

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woop woop!
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3,697 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hmm... So thats basically it? I just put the + and - wire leads accordingly on the multimeters' terminals... just like a battery tester?
 
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