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Discussion Starter #1
anyone have proper instruction of removing wheel stud?

one of them got stripped and i'd like to replace it myself.
i already bought an extra stud. however, i can't seem to remove the old one.

people are telling me that i need to line up the stud with "blank" area and wack it with a hammer to pop them out, but i don't see the "blank" area.

others tell me i need to remove the axle nut. and more others say it is unnecessary to remove the axle nut.. :blah:

i'm rather confused on how to.....
has anyone done it?
 

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I'm white
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I'm assuming the 5th gen uses the same setup as the 4th gen.

If it does you are going to have to remove everything behind it and then you can tap it in.

There is no easy way of doing it w/o basically cutting into the wheel bearing.

Look up or buy a helms, it will guide you step by step. I'm 90% sure you are going to have to remove everything though.
 

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This can be done without removing anything, just the wheel. Get a hammer or small sledge and hammer the stripped stud dead on the center. It will take some effort but it'll pop out. It then falls through behind the rotor but doesn't fall out, this is where it'll take some time to fish it out and to get a new one through. Once the new one is through you simply need to crank on a lug nut to seat it, and then once you tighten down the tire it will press it into the rotor.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
This can be done without removing anything, just the wheel. Get a hammer or small sledge and hammer the stripped stud dead on the center. It will take some effort but it'll pop out. It then falls through behind the rotor but doesn't fall out, this is where it'll take some time to fish it out and to get a new one through. Once the new one is through you simply need to crank on a lug nut to seat it, and then once you tighten down the tire it will press it into the rotor.

there's no clearance to hammer it out. (front wheel).
 

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Chevy 350 swapped Prelude
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Oh, so your wheel is still stuck on the rotor, and you can't take it off? Eeeesh, that'd be a tough one.

And slamming a hammer to get the stud out won't damage the bearing(you would be putting quite a bit of force on it)?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
..........

i got the wheel off, brake caliper out. rotor off.

it's showing hub assembly with and 5 wheel showing. i can't punch out the bad wheel stud because there's no clearance to punch it out in the back. i think it's touching the 'knuckle' (if that's what the part is called)
 

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Chevy 350 swapped Prelude
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I wish you could post a picture. I can't quite visualize that because I've never done such work on my prelude.
 

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behind the bearing cap is the spindle and that has a cone shape to it that prevents the stud from being hammered out. you will have to remove the bearing from the spindle to replace the stud....... which really sucks......good luck
 

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ok just got done with wheel stud replacement,this is what i did:
remove whee, caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor.
rotate bearing so that bad stud is lined up with opening at dust shield.
tap bad stud out slightly.
with cutting wheel or (what i used) sawsaw, cut head off and remove broken stud.
get new stud, grind off a flat spot at the head so that it is flat to the stud spines.
now tap new stud in and remount rotor and tighten lug nut with impact untill seated.
worked for me and no problems.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
ok just got done with wheel stud replacement,this is what i did:
remove whee, caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor.
rotate bearing so that bad stud is lined up with opening at dust shield.
tap bad stud out slightly.
with cutting wheel or (what i used) sawsaw, cut head off and remove broken stud.
get new stud, grind off a flat spot at the head so that it is flat to the stud spines.
now tap new stud in and remount rotor and tighten lug nut with impact untill seated.
worked for me and no problems.
*YES! someone who's done it!



literally saw off the old stud?!

i'm not picturing what you did with the new stud.... would you be able to draw it out? (or have pic?)
 

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you got it, just tap it back then cut the head off. it will slide out the back with no problem. the studs are very hard steel, so be patient.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
you got it, just tap it back then cut the head off. it will slide out the back with no problem. the studs are very hard steel, so be patient.

i see how you can get it out..

but how do you get the new one in?:confused:
i didn't think there was enough clearance to pop in the new one even if you chisel out the new wheel stud... help :D
 

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ok just got done with wheel stud replacement,this is what i did:
remove whee, caliper, caliper bracket, and rotor.
rotate bearing so that bad stud is lined up with opening at dust shield.
tap bad stud out slightly.
with cutting wheel or (what i used) sawsaw, cut head off and remove broken stud.
get new stud, grind off a flat spot at the head so that it is flat to the stud spines.
now tap new stud in and remount rotor and tighten lug nut with impact untill seated.
worked for me and no problems.
^^this is exactly what i did and i still cut into some of the wheel bearing to get the new one in, with a flat spot on the head of the new stud. GL
 

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This can be done without removing anything, just the wheel. Get a hammer or small sledge and hammer the stripped stud dead on the center. It will take some effort but it'll pop out. It then falls through behind the rotor but doesn't fall out, this is where it'll take some time to fish it out and to get a new one through. Once the new one is through you simply need to crank on a lug nut to seat it, and then once you tighten down the tire it will press it into the rotor.
This can be done without removing anything, just the wheel. Get a hammer or small sledge and hammer the stripped stud dead on the center. It will take some effort but it'll pop out. It then falls through behind the rotor but doesn't fall out, this is where it'll take some time to fish it out and to get a new one through. Once the new one is through you simply need to crank on a lug nut to seat it, and then once you tighten down the tire it will press it into the rotor.
I just tried this and stripped the stud now the nut won't come loose
 

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BB6'n till R34'n
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Probably easiest to cut the nut off, then try again. I stick my studs in the freezer before pressing them in. Before I had a hydraulic press I would suck them on using some acron style washers that would fit the lug taper perfectly, then crank on it to seat the stud.
 

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To get the new one in I usually grind a flat into its head. It will still retain enough strength. The being said, I believe I cut away part of the dust shield as well, but cant quite remember because its been awhile and Ive done this to a few different cars.
 
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