Try a 4 foot bar.
How do I get the god damned Crank Pulley Bolt off
Ive tried everything, impact guns, 2 foot breaker bar, rust penetrant, wd40 anyone have any ideas thanx
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
ntpog has a review of installing UR crank pullies. they also had a seriously hard time. i say if all else fails, i think this would be a good case to have a pro do it.
I would never try to install these things by myself but yeah...ppl who have done it use 4 foot breakers.
Get a honda pressure plate bolt. Thread it into the flywheel about a quarter inch. Those bolts are strong as hell, jam a crowbar in between the bellhousing and bolt to hold everything still. Then get a big breaker bar to loosen the crank bolt.
G
You don't even have to go through that much trouble. If you don't have the Honda crank pulley wrench, then try this;
put the car in 5th. Have someone stand on the brakes. Then break torque on that bolt. You will need a big breaker bar, and some balls. If you don't have either, you won't break torque on that bolt. The key to it is the breaker bar. That 18" breaker bar from Sears isn't going to cut it. You need a 3/4" drive breaker bar that's at least 24" to 36" long. You will also need a 3/4" drive to 1/2" adapter if you want to use 1/2" drive sockets.
I wrote that review on NTPOG. The reason why we had such a hard time is that we weren't using a big enough breaker bar. Now that I have this 3 1/2 foot Snap On breaker bar, I have done 2 other pulley bolts with no problems.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
How long will my registration last this time?????
put the car in 5th. Have someone stand on the brakes. Then break torque on that bolt. You will need a big breaker bar, and some balls. If you don't have either, you won't break torque on that bolt. The key to it is the breaker bar. That 18" breaker bar from Sears isn't going to cut it. You need a 3/4" drive breaker bar that's at least 24" to 36" long. You will also need a 3/4" drive to 1/2" adapter if you want to use 1/2" drive sockets.
I wrote that review on NTPOG. The reason why we had such a hard time is that we weren't using a big enough breaker bar. Now that I have this 3 1/2 foot Snap On breaker bar, I have done 2 other pulley bolts with no problems.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
How long will my registration last this time?????
Is it true that you have to drop the motor in order to get to 1 of the bolts?<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
You don't even have to go through that much trouble. If you don't have the Honda crank pulley wrench, then try this;
put the car in 5th. Have someone stand on the brakes. Then break torque on that bolt. You will need a big breaker bar, and some balls. If you don't have either, you won't break torque on that bolt. The key to it is the breaker bar. That 18" breaker bar from Sears isn't going to cut it. You need a 3/4" drive breaker bar that's at least 24" to 36" long. You will also need a 3/4" drive to 1/2" adapter if you want to use 1/2" drive sockets.
I wrote that review on NTPOG. The reason why we had such a hard time is that we weren't using a big enough breaker bar. Now that I have this 3 1/2 foot Snap On breaker bar, I have done 2 other pulley bolts with no problems.
</font>
G
Not really. That's what the shop told me at the time. I haven't gone back to change that on the webpage (I need to do that). You don't have to drop the engine any to get the pulley off.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
How long will my registration last this time?????
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
How long will my registration last this time?????
Dude I have a honda crank pulley wrench, and any size breaker bar I want my dad is a Matco Tools Sales person and there is a big truck full of tools right in front of my facte weve used them all, Is it reversed threaded thanx Aj
i had to drop the motor when i installed mine. Just lower 2 the engine mounts, and let the motor rest on the cross member.wasnt that hard to do. Part of the frame is in the way of being able to pull the pulley off of the shaft completely.<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
Not really. That's what the shop told me at the time. I haven't gone back to change that on the webpage (I need to do that). You don't have to drop the engine any to get the pulley off.
</font>
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Dan Yi
99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
www.MICrew.net
G
I didn't have any problems getting the pulley off without lowering the engine.
gotryce if you have all the tools you need at your disposal, and you still can't get that bolt off, I don't know what to tell you. Give it to someone who can do it. It's not difficult, and it's not reverse threaded.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
gotryce if you have all the tools you need at your disposal, and you still can't get that bolt off, I don't know what to tell you. Give it to someone who can do it. It's not difficult, and it's not reverse threaded.
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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
Billy didn't really believe me, but this worked for me:
Find a 3/4" T-bar. I'll have to take some pics, but this is essentially an 18" (or longer) steel rod about 1.25" in diamter with a 3/4" socket head on it. Get a 3/4" extension (18" or 2 feet)and a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer OR a 3/4 19mm socket. Impact grade preferred.
With the T-bar, the 3/4 extension, the 3/4 to 1/2 reducer, and a 19mm socket, it took something around my body weight to break the bolt loose. I've done it twice now. Works like a charm. A regular ratchet or a swivel-head breaker flexes too much, and the more reducers and extensions you have just make things worse (each one flexes a few degrees, before you know it you have 90 degrees of rotation before you bite metal-on-metal). With this setup I've been able to break it with someone standing on the brakes (and in 5th).
The bolt is NOT reversed or LH thread. It's a normal RH bolt. Turn CCW to loosen.
Find a 3/4" T-bar. I'll have to take some pics, but this is essentially an 18" (or longer) steel rod about 1.25" in diamter with a 3/4" socket head on it. Get a 3/4" extension (18" or 2 feet)and a 3/4 to 1/2 reducer OR a 3/4 19mm socket. Impact grade preferred.
With the T-bar, the 3/4 extension, the 3/4 to 1/2 reducer, and a 19mm socket, it took something around my body weight to break the bolt loose. I've done it twice now. Works like a charm. A regular ratchet or a swivel-head breaker flexes too much, and the more reducers and extensions you have just make things worse (each one flexes a few degrees, before you know it you have 90 degrees of rotation before you bite metal-on-metal). With this setup I've been able to break it with someone standing on the brakes (and in 5th).
The bolt is NOT reversed or LH thread. It's a normal RH bolt. Turn CCW to loosen.
I have heard that if you put a large screw driver in the flywheel through the inspection and timing port you can break it that way also.
Get a lifetime warranty breaker bar put a 6 ft pipe on it.
BTW never did it myself. I tried and broke 3 19 mm sockets. I didn't have the right breaker bar.
Just thought I would put in my 2c worth.
Tom
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93 Si 4WS
Get a lifetime warranty breaker bar put a 6 ft pipe on it.
BTW never did it myself. I tried and broke 3 19 mm sockets. I didn't have the right breaker bar.
Just thought I would put in my 2c worth.
Tom
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93 Si 4WS
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