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I have an '98 SH and I have two options, a SH H22A4 and tranny to rebuild for $600, or a JDM H22A non-lsd tranny with p28 and ecu for $1200. The H22a has 80,xxx miles and the H22a4 is unknown but has a rod knock.

My thought is that the H22A4 is cheaper since its half the price and either one would be a rebuild anyway. With the h22a i believe I would need new axels because of not having the atts... please correct me if im wrong.

Im looking at doing a high compression naturally aspirated build with 12:1 cr je forged pistons, forged eagle rods, resleeving the block and staying 87mm, acl bearings, block guard, arp studs, skunk2 stage 3 pro cams, skunk2 pro valvetrain, skunk2 64mm throttle body, skunk2 cam gears, racing pulleys, skunk2 high compression valves (Increases cr by .3-.5 points). I dont think that with this setup i will exceed 250whp so thats why i thought about keeping it an sh. The head will also be getting p&p as well as a minor mill job.

I have a kn cold air intake and am looking at the skunk2 megapower exhaust, magnaflow high flow cat, and dc headers for the exhaust system.

I plan to have it tuned then afterwards with hondata.

Do you think the block after sleeved and guarded can handle nearly 13:1 cr and what whp do you think i would get out of it?
Any and all thoughts are appreciated.
 

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what are your plans with the lude. auto-x, dd? 13:1 is crazy high imo. also if you plan to maintain the atts like i plan on doing what kinda of research have you done on tuning? im not sure if hondata supports atts function.
 

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Havent thought of the conflict with tuning the ecu.. i would think it would be ok since the atts has a seperate unit. Its going to still be my dd. I just wanna get close to 250whp thats why the high compression. Id keep the sleeves at 87mm due to the pressure and go with dry flanged sleeves.
 

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your atts wont then work and if youre having stock IM you need p72 ecu that your iabs will continue working... anyway youre loosing atts with that big build

skunk2 64mm throttle body
there is no such part?

and its pointless you to even plan that build without decent header!

and are you mad? you can get 250hp with much MUCH less work than that! with stage 3 cams and 12 compression its more likely 275
 

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Ive also been curious on a properly done build , retaining the ATTS . im looking for 240-250 Whp but there is so much conflicting information out there. Im hesitant to drop 3 grand and get the project rolling.
 

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Ive also been curious on a properly done build , retaining the ATTS . im looking for 240-250 Whp but there is so much conflicting information out there. Im hesitant to drop 3 grand and get the project rolling.
Id be more concern about how you can get your car properly tuned
 

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your atts wont then work and if youre having stock IM you need p72 ecu that your iabs will continue working... anyway youre loosing atts with that big build



there is no such part?

and its pointless you to even plan that build without decent header!

and are you mad? you can get 250hp with much MUCH less work than that! with stage 3 cams and 12 compression its more likely 275
too little compression for pro3
too small displacement for big power
poor supporting mods

no chance in hell to make 275
 

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Ive also been curious on a properly done build , retaining the ATTS . im looking for 240-250 Whp but there is so much conflicting information out there. Im hesitant to drop 3 grand and get the project rolling.
If you wanted to keep ATTS, you are limited to tuning with a piggyback and the stock ECU. Hondata won't work, you'd need to switch to an OBDI ECU to use it.

IMO, ATTS really isn't worth the trouble. It's heavy, complicated and expensive to fix when it breaks, and it severely limits your tuning options. On top that, I'm not convinced it works noticeably better than a standard lsd. The only real downside to dumping ATTS is that you'd need a non-ATTS transmission. Your SH tranny won't mount to any blocks except those from an SH or type-s.
 
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