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Here is a copy of an update form another thread regarding Joshua's j series swap. Enjoy!

"Ok, so im back at work, few hours form home and i figured i would upload somepictures and progress ont he jswap. Realistically, the jswap is easier than the H motor to install. I was surprised however the V6 motor is shorter, and not near as wide as the h motor with intake manifold and header. The mounts are great, there was some small work required for the j32 engine mount bracket, as well as the mandatory removal of the power steering pump. Aside form all of that the j motor is mucvh easier to install, handle, lift, and work on in the prelude bay.



One of the first things i had done when i got home form work regaridng the prelude, was i drove most of the gas out of the car, then took it home and put it on scales so that i can see the weight as well as the corner distribution of that weight.







This is the weight and corners of the prelude with the koni eibach setup. The prelude wieghed in at 2738lbs no driver, little fuel.





Last pic in the prelude for the H23vtec...















After getting the H motor out, i put it on the scales and weighed it. This engine has no oil in it, but includes the halfshaft, the starter, harness, exhaust manifold.





















The H motor as you can see wieghed in at 451lbs.



Heres a picture of the two motors, not quite side by side but they are chilling together in the garage.









My dirtyy ass engine bay, its ok, ill clean it up prior to installation of the built j32a2/



I then put the flywheel and clutch and trans on, then starter and 2 of the cast iron exhuast manifolds )this was becuase i do not have a tubular header to put on for comparision sake, so i used the cast manifolds to make up for the weight).















Note how thick the flywheel and clutch setup are. This is a non sprung,. solid hub Spec 3+ SAC clutch mated to a oem dual mass flyhweel. Kinda strange, im not sure how i feel about the dual mass FW. I know driving Tessa's TL-S is great and its not hard at all but im sort of use to stiffer setups. the SAC and the dual mass FW make clutching feel much softer. I dunno, i may just use a regular clutch and FW on the turbo setup.



After getting the transd and starter and halfsahft and whatnot(mounts and brackets) installed onto the j32a motor i then put it on scales and weighed it also. The results were surprising to say the least.















Whats blows me away with this is that there is only a roughly 71 lb difference, bear in mind exhuast changes and some other things like the removal of the whole ac system( that weighed 35 lbs) then the removal of the power steering pump and lines(around 7 lbs). So technically right off the hop there is less than a 30 lb difference.



Now is where things got interesting. I lifte dthe j motor up and my buddy had helped me guid it gently into the engien bay of the prelude, Im telling you this motor is far easier to install as a whole unit than the H motors could ever dream to be.























One thing i lef tout until these pictures is tha fact that the passenger side motor mount bracket that bolts onto the engine, has to be modified and cut dow a biut so that the Innovative mount will bolt up.

Before:





midway lol





Finished:





After this, it was a matter of installing the front suspension components and axels. This was pretty easy ont eh passenger side, the hybrid halfshaft fit well, the axel fit great and the suspension went together like butter on toast..."
 

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Here are some video shots of the J swap driving around. By now Joshua has the hood installed and closing and has only a few minor details to work out. There are some pictures of the built block as well as some of the turbo parts that will go into this build after the machine shop is done doing theIr thing.



MOV_0481_zps749818b2.mp4 Video by bouckarooo | Photobucket








Oh yeah, Joshua also got the s2000 speedometer installed and working in the prelude with the J motor. It looks pretty good!

 

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So, here is a long time update.

The Ge block had come in, about a year and a bit ago, the Endynn heads have also been delivered. They look great!

Also, Joshua purchased and picked up his turbo earlier this week. So far things are looking pretty good for the turbo charged J series motor setup. There hasn't been any updates in this thread for some time, so I figured I would share Joshua's progress.

Here are some pictures.
This is the flow sheet of the Endynn Heads












Here is Joshua with our new tire machines, mounter and balancer.


More parts:

AD adjustable Cam Gears for the J motor!



The Golden Eagle Sleeved and custom built block!










925 FIC injectors for the built setup.


Carbon Fiber Mugen 6MT round knob




Here are the pictures of the turbo, this is a Borg Warner EFR 8374 externally gated, dived manifold with a 1.05 AR.






Also, being that this particular site Banned Joshua, he hasn't taken interest in showing anyone on this site exactly what he has going on. Frankly, there is much that has been missed.

Joshua and I started our own Dynamometer and Specialty Auto shop, Its called Silver Maple Numerics. We have some pretty cool things coming out of the shop this year, a paddle shifting J swapped 1998 accord, a k swapped third gen prelude, a b20vtec crx, as well as a K20z3 Crx, among others like the supercharged J35 in the EM1 and obviously the j swapped prelude. However, the plans for the prelude are to make it RWD using the s2000 transmission Joshua has. Hopefully this RWD conversion will begin this summer, as he has the majority of the parts he will need.

Also, we have developed and had machined up an oil diverter system for running VTEC oil lines and or a clean oil feed for a turbo setup. I will try post some pictures up in the next day or so about the Silver Maple Numerics Ltd Oil Diverter system.

Take care and until next time!
 

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i woudl like to keep it obd2 as then that way i dont have to mess aroundn with my harness at all and when i get my block back i can slap the head on it and then the rest of the turbo stuffs and then just install it and away we go. Now, seeing as the aem unit allows 12-14 different "tunes", i think i may just dedicate one for the h23 and leave it in the unit. As for prelude power i am a memer there as well but i like this site better, its just more fun. PP people are just as misinformed as some on here so either way. I know there are a few people here who have it as you can see it in their sigs on the odd occasion. Either way i dont care anymore if i have to spend a few bucks and some hours retuning then that is fine. I will be starting with the h22 base map and then changing the parameters i need to to make the h23 run.


As for all the people who think "blue cams" are for type s only, well thats bull**** as when you heat up oil on metal it has a tendancy to turn a blueish hue. That whole thread is filled with idiots who say " i have heard," or ' my freinds cousins sisters boyfreind had the swap done by so and so shop and..." or " i think this is a type s cuz i was told it was by the guy i bought it from".....people like that make me laugh so hard. Bunch o' fuking losers if you ask me.


One thing, i may not be the most pleasant person towards some members here (mainly the ones who murder people for tax dollars....prepreludesh and the other gi jane morons....hahahahaha) but i do have respect for people who do thier own work as i understand what they go through and know what it is like.


....and i will be waiting for another drunk comment...:)
i woudl like to keep it obd2 as then that way i dont have to mess aroundn with my harness at all and when i get my block back i can slap the head on it and then the rest of the turbo stuffs and then just install it and away we go. Now, seeing as the aem unit allows 12-14 different "tunes", i think i may just dedicate one for the h23 and leave it in the unit. As for prelude power i am a memer there as well but i like this site better, its just more fun. PP people are just as misinformed as some on here so either way. I know there are a few people here who have it as you can see it in their sigs on the odd occasion. Either way i dont care anymore if i have to spend a few bucks and some hours retuning then that is fine. I will be starting with the h22 base map and then changing the parameters i need to to make the h23 run.


As for all the people who think "blue cams" are for type s only, well thats bull**** as when you heat up oil on metal it has a tendancy to turn a blueish hue. That whole thread is filled with idiots who say " i have heard," or ' my freinds cousins sisters boyfreind had the swap done by so and so shop and..." or " i think this is a type s cuz i was told it was by the guy i bought it from".....people like that make me laugh so hard. Bunch o' fuking losers if you ask me.


One thing, i may not be the most pleasant person towards some members here (mainly the ones who murder people for tax dollars....prepreludesh and the other gi jane morons....hahahahaha) but i do have respect for people who do thier own work as i understand what they go through and know what it is like.


....and i will be waiting for another drunk comment...:)

The blue tint is from the magnesium coating that I’m pretty sure all Honda cams are treated with to help reduce wear increasing the longevity of the cams, and I I’ve done several of these swaps in accords before you complain about it not being a fifth gen prelude they’re almost the same dam thing in an operational perspective, you can get a harness adapter from rywire to extend the crank sensor and what not up to the distributor and use the 8 pin internal coil distributor which has the sensors inside of it, get a obd2 to obd1 jumper harness and get yourself a p28 with a hondata S300 installed in it and download a tune that someone created on hondata for the h23a vtec with more suitable parameters for a manual trans don’t have the link handy but if for some good forsaken reason you couldn’t find it yourself I could send it from my computer and wa la your h23a will run tits also run the h22a4 injectors and manifold I have an arm fuel rail (use whatever you have) don’t forget to input the injector size as V 345cc delete knock, run a air fuel wideband I have iacv also checked off and yea I have very little experience with this swap and even less information on exactly everything needed to make it happen and the day after I got all parts I needed in (rywire conversion harness for distributor and the 8 pin internal coil distributor) I dropped the motor in plugged it up uploaded the map from hondata website changed things like injector size deleted iacv and shot **** set redline and wha lag **** runs tits
 
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