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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Ok guys, i have once again came across a very cheap costing h23 VTEC. The last one i had bought i sold becasue i couldnt locate a timing belt and needed the room. This one however i am determined to install into my 97 base lude while i have the h22 block getting sleeved and machined for a turbo setup. I need to know, and only from those who actuallly have done the f*cking swap, where to find a timing belt. Also, the water pump you used, was it a h22 or no? Next up, what ecu was used? The h23 vtec or the h22a4 form the bb6?(i have read conflicting accounts). So, anyone who HAS COMPLETED THE H23 VTEC SWAP please chime in. I will be picking up the h23 vtec next week on my way home from work and appreciate the info greatly.


Also i have an aem series two, but dont wnat to have to reprogram it for the h23. I would like just a plug and play kinda deal as this will be a temporary engine just for the time while the block is getting worked on.
 

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Timing belt and water pump are the same as an H22, just need an adapter to use your old IACV unless you swap upper plenum. A ton of info is here...

JDM H23A Vtec Blue Top Mystery Motor, True Facts, Questions? - Honda-Tech

Pretty sure there is a base map for this motor floating around but I'm pretty sure if you call up HMO they can get you the original factory ECU for this motor but the thing is that the car it came in had no manual transmission option so modification may be needed.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Timing belt and water pump are the same as an H22, just need an adapter to use your old IACV unless you swap upper plenum. A ton of info is here...

JDM H23A Vtec Blue Top Mystery Motor, True Facts, Questions? - Honda-Tech

Pretty sure there is a base map for this motor floating around but I'm pretty sure if you call up HMO they can get you the original factory ECU for this motor but the thing is that the car it came in had no manual transmission option so modification may be needed.
Ok cool, i will read taht thread tonight while i work. Also i will be using a skunk2 intake manifold so iwill jsut leave the iacv on it. I guess i will be retungin the aem, unit then as im not going to use the cu that came with it. Not too sure but the one that came with it is off an auto that may or may not be 4wd. The guy sellign me the engine doesnt have anycar info from which this one came from other than it has 68,000 kilomteres on it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Timing belt and water pump are the same as an H22, just need an adapter to use your old IACV unless you swap upper plenum. A ton of info is here...

JDM H23A Vtec Blue Top Mystery Motor, True Facts, Questions? - Honda-Tech

Pretty sure there is a base map for this motor floating around but I'm pretty sure if you call up HMO they can get you the original factory ECU for this motor but the thing is that the car it came in had no manual transmission option so modification may be needed.
Ok, so afetr reading the 28 pages, im still in the same spot. That thread has so much conflicting bull**** information it is not even funny. I know now i can use the timgin belt from the h22, but am now cuurious as to what ecu is actually best. Some say they use the stock h22, other say it doesnt run right, some say to change the h23 ecu from auto to manual some say you cant, some say chipped p28 some say stick with p13. Like where the **** are the people who have doen the swap in a BB6 and have it running well? Not a ****ign fourth gen, not a ****ing accord, a goddamn fifthe gen prelude? I want to know, who out there has converted to obd1 or who has keep it obd2 like the bb6 comes from factory? and which ecu's (ecm's) are you using?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
**** it, im just going to retune the sereis2 ems unit and tune it for the h23.
 

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Ah, I remember that thread.

FYI, there are a few active members on preludepower that have already completed that swap....it might be worth it for you to join there and ask them. I'm pretty sure nobody that frequents this forum has done the swap yet.


GL
 

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There were a couple of people in that thread that had 5g's with that swap, pretty sure they all went OBD1 with a P28. It'd be a waste of time to go this far in with a OBD2 car and not convert to OBD1 IMO.

I know there's a lot of morons posting mis information mostly on the cams, what retard thought that the tint of the cam meant anything anyway? Seems like almost all H22 parts work on it, timing belt, water pump and I'm sure every seal will be the same. Just have to swap the upper intake plenum or get an adapter to let you use your old IACV.
 

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^It's not that simple. You can't just slap any stock ECU on it, because it has different parameters than either the H22 or the H23....so it needs a tune either way. The H23vtec can't safely rev as high as an H22, and like the H23 it lacks oil squirters to aid in cooling/lubricating the bottom end, and obviously it has a longer stroke due to using an H23 crank. From what I found from when I looked into this engine a while back, I saw that some parts are shared with an H22, some are shared with H23's, some are shared with neither, and several other parts nobody has any idea if/which engine they are shared with.


Most of the motor retailers now sell the H23vtec for less than a H22a swap. That's probably because demand for the H23vtec is low because they are a pain in the ass to swap and maintain because of parts availability/information issues (and the lack of a factory tuned ECU that will work as a PnP).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i woudl like to keep it obd2 as then that way i dont have to mess aroundn with my harness at all and when i get my block back i can slap the head on it and then the rest of the turbo stuffs and then just install it and away we go. Now, seeing as the aem unit allows 12-14 different "tunes", i think i may just dedicate one for the h23 and leave it in the unit. As for prelude power i am a memer there as well but i like this site better, its just more fun. PP people are just as misinformed as some on here so either way. I know there are a few people here who have it as you can see it in their sigs on the odd occasion. Either way i dont care anymore if i have to spend a few bucks and some hours retuning then that is fine. I will be starting with the h22 base map and then changing the parameters i need to to make the h23 run.


As for all the people who think "blue cams" are for type s only, well thats bull**** as when you heat up oil on metal it has a tendancy to turn a blueish hue. That whole thread is filled with idiots who say " i have heard," or ' my freinds cousins sisters boyfreind had the swap done by so and so shop and..." or " i think this is a type s cuz i was told it was by the guy i bought it from".....people like that make me laugh so hard. Bunch o' fuking losers if you ask me.


One thing, i may not be the most pleasant person towards some members here (mainly the ones who murder people for tax dollars....prepreludesh and the other gi jane morons....hahahahaha) but i do have respect for people who do thier own work as i understand what they go through and know what it is like.


....and i will be waiting for another drunk comment...:)
 

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PP people are just as misinformed as some on here so either way. I know there are a few people here who have it as you can see it in their sigs on the odd occasion.
I'd agree that the misinfomation on PP is much worse than it is here, but there are active members there with the swap currently running. If you talk directly to one of them, you might get some good info.

I can only remember seeing 1 member here that actually completed the swap...but I don't remember his username ATM. It was a green car with Advans...his username started with an S....maybe I'll remember it eventually. Either way he's not active here anymore.


O.T. but:

Was the military bashing comment really necessary? Personally I don't give a sh!t what your opinion about it is one way or the other because I don't take anything here that seriously...but you have been clouding up a bunch of threads with a lot of those comments lately. If you want to discuss your opinion of U.S. military policy, the OT section here is now open to everyone.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
thanks man, and by teh way no the comment isnt necessary but since gi jane there (pludesh) keeps commenting onmy spelling i have to point out that he is a peice os garbage. thats all, i have no iseeuw itht he militaryy as i have abrother in iraq right now with the us force as well as another brother in afghanistan. hahaha i jsut like pissing ludesh off.hahahahaha praise obama ahahahaha
 

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Iirc there's been a few people over the years that have done it on honda-tech.com along with a mix of Frankensteins (F23/H23, F22B2 block and H22A1 head, etc)

Most are still active threads, otherwise dig into the archives. TONS of info



Sent from my GT-I9000 using AutoGuide App
 

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Since you don't want to hack into your harness you're going to have to swap distributor's and oil pumps other wise you'll have to run the crank sensor wires to the dizzy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Update, the engine is good, comrpession is great. So far i have aquired the following parts for this swap and build(some of them i previously had on the engine thats in the lude now):

Engine: H23A VTEC # 2001161
Transmission: T2W4 # 1000219

OEM PARTS- From Local Dealership -
103405-PTO-004-Balance Belt
14400-P13-014 -Timing Belt
15100-P5M-305-Oil Pump
19200-P13-003-Water Pump
91212-P0A-004-Crank Seal (Front)
91214-PLE-003-Crank Seal (Rear)
12341-P13-000-Head Gasket
91233-PTO-003- Balance Shaft Seal
06923-P0A-3065- Seal Retainer
91316-PE7-730- Oil Cooler Oring
11251-P5K-000- Oil Pan Gasket
17130-PK1-003-PCV
12342-PT2-000-Spark Plug Seal x4
90011-PH3-000-Flywheel Bolts x 8
94109-14-000- Drain Washer
22810-P21-003- Release Bearing
19301-P13-305-Thermostat
90176-SM4-010-Front Mount Bolt
90165-Sm4-020-Rear Mount Bolt
13404-PTO-004-Adjuster Comp, Balance Belt
13415-PT0-000-Bracket,B. Belt Adjsuter
14510-PT0-004-Adjuster Comp, Timing Belt
14516-PT2-000-Spring Comp, T. Belt Adjuster
14521-P14-A00-Plate Adjuster
90014-P14-A00-Bolt, T. Belt Adjuster Base
90015-PT0-000-Bolt, T. Belt Adjuster Spring
90016-PT0-000-Bolt, T. Belt Adjuster
90140-P14-A00-Washer, Plain (11mm)

AfterMarket Parts:

Brian Crower Stage2 N/A Camshafts
Brian Crower Valve Spring and Titanium Retainers
Skunk2 Intake Manifold
Blox 68mm Throttle Body
Aem Tru Time Cam Gears
Aem Series2 EMS
Aem Wide Band
Aem Map
Aem AIT
Aem Fuel Rail
Aem Fuel Filter
Spec 10lb Flywheel
Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch
Skunk2 Cam Seal
Fluidyne High Flow Radiator
Aem Cold Air intake
3" Custom Exhaust
Oem Re-machined Cylinder Head - machined .010 - from member MisledYouthbb6


Pics of Engine and video of compression test to be posted shortly.
 
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