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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
Thoses h22a4 290cc 12ohm injectors might be a problem with the jdm oem ecu... I'd have to do more research that ecu more but I think JDM ecu's is 2-3ohm specs & around 320cc with a shorter pulse width.

Ill get back to you on it.
Awesome thank you please get back to me asap on that. I do have the euro-r injectors just not the fuel rail I can purchase one if need be.
 

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Also mean time turn the dizzy advanced abit(if wont run)& see if you can tell if the timing is right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 · (Edited)
It will run but only for a little bit like you see in the videos. Does this mean it might be a fuel issue or dizzy problem?

I also did a bit of research and I think your right about the euro-r injector being right around 310cc saturated. I have no idea if this would cause my car to run this way...
 

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(I'm not quite sure why TypeT is against Hondata as I am not familiar with them... maybe JDM can shed some light on that)
because IMO its waste of money to pay for hondata when you can use cheaper programs to tune your ecu like crome, emanager or neptune (some of them are free)

I have never seen any ecu give the same code always when I jump the blue service connector for codes. Its always code 21 which is vtec malfunction/fault. My vtec is fine with no issues whatsoever, I have checked like 5 times in a row its in good shape. I have even unplugged the map, tps and egr sensors one at a time, and tried pulling the codes if there were any being thrown, but the ecu still say code 21 instead of codes for what I unplugged. This causes me to believe that the ecu is bad.
my obd1 swap gave few codes (20-22) but this thing fixed them:

"to disable Code 22 you must connect a wire between pins A4 and D6 on the OBD1 ECU"
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
Typet I'm not having any issues with the obd1 ecu its just the pcd euro r ecu that's giving me problems. I am just ready to buy another pcd ecu or just give up on this whole idea that I can get my prelude to run with this computer.
 

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Are the benefits of the pcd euro r ECU really worth the hassle?
What will you be gaining? (out of curiosity)
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Are the benefits of the pcd euro r ECU really worth the hassle?
What will you be gaining? (out of curiosity)
At this point I am gaining nothing because I cant figure out why this euro-r ecu wont run my euro-r engine correctly. I think I am just going to have to take this as a loss and just get my obd1 chipped ecu tuned in a week or so. I really wanted to just see if I could get my prelude running on the factory ecu that came with my engine swap. I have already gone through the hassle of buying the pcd ecu and the rywire obd2a to obd2b ecu jumper and yet it still wont run right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
I just bought another euro-r PCD ECU so I will let you guys know if it solved my issues. I sure hope so because I am wanting this prelude to run on that computer.
 

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I can't find the specs on that ecu but I believe I'm pretty close to the correct numbers.
Good luck on the new one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Ended up fixing my issue it was the Rywire obd2a-obd2b jumper harness. I sent it out to another member and he fixed it. There were two Y connectors on it that needed the ends cut, and now the car runs fine. Except for the hesitation between 2k rpm and 3k rpm seems to be pretty normal for a euro-r to have slight hesitation issues. Is there anyway of fixing this issue at all or do I have to live with it?
 

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I'm having the exact same issue, put and 01 euro r in my 98 base. i ordered the wrong harness adapter though. got b to a instead of a to b. I wonder though I am running everything euro r except the dizzy. could the usdm map be the problem? as its set for less fuel? mine is running but running horrible at the moment using the usdm and i dont have the IACV three wire to two wire issue corrected (parts en route from rosko)
 

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That's right the euro r are 98-01 motors... For some reason that ecu won't work on any usdm chassis, believe something with the base maps are set for higher octane then us & so on.

You would need to get the p72 or p28 & a patch harness for obd2 to obd1( I have an p28 hondata s100 ready)
Only problem is the p28 won't run the IABs.
The p72 will run the IABs

So p72 ecu
Obd2 to obd1 patch harness
Will run off base map(would recommend a tune tho)
Did some digging the minimum is 97 RON for the accord type R. RON is equal to 92-93 AKI which is what most premium gas is in the US. So the right ecu with the right motor running the right gas should. . . run right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 · (Edited)
No you will be running fine with the usdm ecu and using 91 octane, as long as you use the Rosko Racing two wire IACV adapter plate and of course the two wire iacv. I ran that way for a few weeks til I could afford the obd1 p28 chipped ecu, I then swapped it out for the euro-r ecu and the euro-r 3 wire IACV to see how well it would run with the ecu that came with the swap, and ran into only one issue. The Rywire conversion harness is for civics and integras, so you have to cut two Y connectors on it and then it runs pretty good, and idles super smooth. Although I couldn't stand the EGR code and hesitation that euro-r ecu threw, so I went back to my chipped p28 setup, alot less headaches from the start with the obd1 ecu with a good euro-r base map on it.
 

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That's right the euro r are 98-01 motors... For some reason that ecu won't work on any usdm chassis, believe something with the base maps are set for higher octane then us & so on.

You would need to get the p72 or p28 & a patch harness for obd2 to obd1( I have an p28 hondata s100 ready)
Only problem is the p28 won't run the IABs.
The p72 will run the IABs

So p72 ecu
Obd2 to obd1 patch harness
Will run off base map(would recommend a tune tho)
Mine 4th gen 93 turbo is using Euro-R CL1 engine. I use Haltect PS1000 EMU new wiring. Runs scarily fast.
 
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