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I just installed the progress kit on the back of my car a few days ago. The back is not too different than the front so it should be close to the same process. What I ended up doing was renting a ball joint seperator (not a fork, the little clamp thing that fits on the bottom of the ball joint bolt and forces it out of the knuckle arm after you remove the pin and castle nut) Then I removed the upper arm from the car to make it easier to pry the old ball joint out. A little work from a large hammer and the old one is out. You could have the thing pressed out if you feel you will need to reuse them someday. Otherwise just whack them out. Set the new joints in place (they bolt back in, they don't have to be pressed) and be sure to tighten the top adjusting bolt tight! The bolt will come with some nylon in the threads, but you still need to tighten them pretty good. I had to retighten one of mine after 2 days because it went loose. Hope this helps, good luck
 

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Boost Withdrawl... :(
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so what happens if it goes completely loose??? it falls apart???

how did you tell it was loose?
 

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Mark it Zero!
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im installing teins this weekend...
so what your saying is that the upper balljoint is the camber kit that u just remove the oem balljoint and replace with the progress one?
 

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nick, why didn't u tell me u were gonna do it? i have the seperator tool, whatever u do, dont get the pitchfork one, u will tear the boots.....
 

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Definately dont get the pitch fork just because it's a pain. Especially if you want to keep the old joint.

Cameron, yes the camber kit is a replacement ball joint that's built with a little slider for adjusting the camber.

xxh22a, it took me about an hour and a half total work time. Thats also because i hammered the original ball joint to pieces. I was going to save them but when I took the upper arm into the local tire shop and asked the guy to press it out, I watched him take out a huge hammer and whack the thing to pieces. Okay that's not really what I meant, but at least he didn't charge me!
You will most likely have to adjust the kit a few times before you get it right, which of course requires putting your wheel back on and lowering it off the jack, but try to get it visually as close as you can. Adjusting is easy, but it will probably be easier if you take the arm off of the knuckle so that you can lower the arm and readjust the nut. Tighten the nut tight. If it does go loose it wont fall off or anything, you will just make some annoying noises as the wheel bounces back and forth. Also, when you get an alignment which you absolutley need to do, they will check to make sure that the camber is in factory range before they adjust, which means you can have the right tire at 0 degrees and the left at 1.3 and they may not adjust it. So for the sake of even handling try to eye it yourself and get it close.
 

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Wait a minute-the ball joint kits REQUIRE that the car be realigned on a machine. The way the kits are made will allow for BOTH Camber and Caster adjustment. Yes, you can do the install at home and save the 1.6 hours of labor charges. Just take it to a quality alignment shop that has a Laser 4-wheel setup and get it done. As to tighening the bolts-torque them down to spec. MY experience with the arms has been to have a shop use a press-the arms can be bent otherwise.

Good luck and enjoy the better handling.
 

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I think the arm would have to take quite a bit of abuse before it bends at all, but do get them pressed out anyway. I was just saying try to get the camber close by eye before you take it in to get professionally aligned. One of my wheels were at -1.4 degrees and they didn't adjust it because it is in the 0-1.6 degree or so range. The other wheel was at -0.7 degrees. And I have to say after getting the kit and alignment, my car handles sooo much smoother! I had a toe in problem that destroyed my tires in no time. The camber kit cured it completely. I dream of being able to get 20-25k plus on a single set of tires!
 

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A reminder here: The spec's for Honda Front suspensions are generally 0 degrees +/-1 degree. The rear is a range of +0.3 to -1.8. Ideally you want to have a bit of negative Camber.
 

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Will Firestone give a lifetime alignment deal on a lowered car though? Heck, the first alinment shop I went to wouldn't even touch my car for a single alignment because it was lowered.
 
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