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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
i got my crower stage 2 cams the other day look at http://honda-acura.net/forum/Forum20/HTML/010459.html there are pics here. but anyways. I cant tell the difference between the intake and exhaust cam. I also have a helms manual. To those of you who have done this are there any tips that you have for me??

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99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
 

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you got the tools you need?
i.e. the really small torque wrench? honda bond or new valve cover gasket?

I would really try and figure out which is the intake cam, and which is the exhaust cam first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by pter:
you got the tools you need?
i.e. the really small torque wrench? honda bond or new valve cover gasket?

I would really try and figure out which is the intake cam, and which is the exhaust cam first.
</font>

yeah i have all the tools i need, and 2 different TQ wrenches. I am going to buy a new valve cover gasket before i install them. anything else?


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99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
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Do make sure you get some honda bond. Honda engines are notorious for leaking right by the cam seals and the next to the area where your cams gears are sealed away from the head. Are you planning to make a valve adjustment after you install your cams? Good luck.
 

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i think the most important tool your gonna need besides the helm's is the honda tensioner tool, or a second set of hands to hold the timing belt for you. it's pretty involved, good luck.

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Resist, and you'll be overcome
 
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You need to be prepared to pull the timing belt, set everything back to TDC, then reinstall the timing belt. I would suggest that you replace the timing belt and autotensioner.

Use plenty of pre-lube. There's no such thing as using too much pre-lube. Most people prefer something that is moly based. It's an involved installation, so be prepared.

The exhaust cam is the one that's keyed for the distributor. The distributor also goes in only one way, so don't try to force it in, if it doesn't fit, then turn it 180 degrees, then try to install it.

Don't mix up the cam caps. That's a big NO-NO.

Make sure you untorque and torque everything in the correct sequence. Last thing you need to do is warp something.

Loosen the cam gear bolts BEFORE you remove the timing belt. It's much easier that way.

You will need someone to hold both cams at TDC when you put the timing belt on. They don't sit at TDC normally (because of the tension on the valve springs).

When you remove the special tool from the autotensioner (yes, you need that special tool, don't try to do it without it), turn the exhaust cam gear and crank at the same time. If you don't, the timing belt will skip one tooth.

After you install the belt, turn the engine over a few times by hand and verify that everything is still at TDC after a few revolutions.

Replace the cam seals. ALL of them. Don't skimp and reuse them. You will have leaks.

You need a big ass breaker bar to get the crank pulley off. Yes, you need to remove the crank pulley to get the lower timing belt cover off. It's impossible to set everything to TDC without being able to see exactly where the crank is.

So, here's what I would buy:

valve cover gasket
cam seals
autotensioner
timing belt
water pump (if you have more than say 50k miles)

I think that's about it, but I bet there's more....

Read the Helm's manual to find out what's involved in a timing belt change. That's about what you will have to do, besides swapping the cams out.

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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i was reading an article in may2001 Import Tuner magazine.


a review of Crower cams for a B18.

wow. some impressive gains.

anyway, the article said after a dyno, they had to use an APEXi vfac to raise the VTEC point due to a big loss in mid range. after the vfac tuning, the vehicle had gains thruout the entire band.

could someone explain the theoretical reason for this?

btw, DY101, good luck! i hope everything goes well. thats one hell of a big do-it-yourself job.
 
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damn that's involved...I think I'd be too scared to do it myself...well I WAS which was why I sold the type-s cams...how much were the crower cams?

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My cams had IN and EX forged onto the cam shaft in the middle. Not sure about the VTEC ones in your car.

I did not replace my timing belt. Only had 10-15000 miles on a new one with a new water pump.

I lined up TDC took a white fabric pen and marked the belt where the TDC was on the gears where it matches the belt. Pulled the intake cam out first loosening it and then by lifting the battery side up of the cam and taking the cam out towards the drivers wheel under the belt. The rest you should be able to figure out. If not E-mail me I would be happy to help more.

I do agree with DSP if you have some miles on your belt I would replace it with your water pump. You should loosen your cam gears before pulling your cams so you can do the cam seals.

Good luck,

Tom

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93 Si 4WS
 
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You have a single cam engine. It's a much different story when you work on a DOHC. It's a world of difference, actually.

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 
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Yeah, I just saw that. DUH....I was thinking of the S!

Sorry!!



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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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Most people I've talked to who had worked on H22A motors before would suggest swapping the freaking auto-tensioner to a manual tensioner as used on H23A motor. If you don't know how to work on H22A timing belt, it would be a b1tch to put the timing belt back on.


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Vincent
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Thanks for all the tips, but i still have a few questions. What is pre-lube, and what does the auto tensioner doo and how much is it. I only have like 42k miles on my car.

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
You need to be prepared to pull the timing belt, set everything back to TDC, then reinstall the timing belt. I would suggest that you replace the timing belt and autotensioner.

Use plenty of pre-lube. There's no such thing as using too much pre-lube. Most people prefer something that is moly based. It's an involved installation, so be prepared.

The exhaust cam is the one that's keyed for the distributor. The distributor also goes in only one way, so don't try to force it in, if it doesn't fit, then turn it 180 degrees, then try to install it.

Don't mix up the cam caps. That's a big NO-NO.

Make sure you untorque and torque everything in the correct sequence. Last thing you need to do is warp something.

Loosen the cam gear bolts BEFORE you remove the timing belt. It's much easier that way.

You will need someone to hold both cams at TDC when you put the timing belt on. They don't sit at TDC normally (because of the tension on the valve springs).

When you remove the special tool from the autotensioner (yes, you need that special tool, don't try to do it without it), turn the exhaust cam gear and crank at the same time. If you don't, the timing belt will skip one tooth.

After you install the belt, turn the engine over a few times by hand and verify that everything is still at TDC after a few revolutions.

Replace the cam seals. ALL of them. Don't skimp and reuse them. You will have leaks.

You need a big ass breaker bar to get the crank pulley off. Yes, you need to remove the crank pulley to get the lower timing belt cover off. It's impossible to set everything to TDC without being able to see exactly where the crank is.

So, here's what I would buy:

valve cover gasket
cam seals
autotensioner
timing belt
water pump (if you have more than say 50k miles)

I think that's about it, but I bet there's more....

Read the Helm's manual to find out what's involved in a timing belt change. That's about what you will have to do, besides swapping the cams out.

</font>


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99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 99prelude:
here's a tip Danielson GET IT DONE PROFESSIONALLY
hehehe jk

</font>
hell no, im doing it myslef, i have to learn how to do all this stuff
so i can be as knowledgeable about this as Billy is




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99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
 
G

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DYI01:
Thanks for all the tips, but i still have a few questions. What is pre-lube, and what does the auto tensioner doo and how much is it. I only have like 42k miles on my car.
</font>
The autotensioner sets the tension on the timing belt. Replace it if you have the money. It appears that the auto tensioner is a weak link in the timing belt system. I would highly recommend you replace it, regardless of the mileage.

Prelube is a grease that you apply to all moving engine parts when assembling an engine (it helps to minimize any damage that might occur during initial startup).

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 
G

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by DYI01:
hell no, im doing it myslef, i have to learn how to do all this stuff
so i can be as knowledgeable about this as Billy is
</font>
You have a second car right? Don't be disappointed if you don't finish it all in one weekend (unless you work from sun up to sun down both days).

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Billy
North Texas Prelude Owners Group
www.ntpog.org
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 71dsp:
You have a second car right? Don't be disappointed if you don't finish it all in one weekend (unless you work from sun up to sun down both days).

</font>
No billy i dont have a second car, but my cousin who is helping me is pretty experienced, and knowlegeable about cars. And he is helping me do this.

And what is the part number for the tensioner tool, what does it do, and how much does it cost???

I doubt i will change the timing belt, tensioner, and the water pump, because i currently dont have the funds to do so. So what i probably will do is get the necessary things like the cam seals and gaskets that are required.


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99 Pearlwhite Sportshift
15.45 @ 92.37
 
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