Honda Prelude Online banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hey I have 2 twelve inch kicker l7s they are 2 ohm and 750 rms, i am trying to find a amp that would be good but im confused on the whole rms thing. Would i want an amp that is also 750rms at 2 ohms? please reply soon i want to get an amp asap thanks

94 prelude si
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
you will need two of those amps for the two kickers. RMS power handling 750 watts pre speaker(750rms x 2= 1500w RMS) its better to over power them too. so if you could find two amps that run 800-900w RMS that would be prefect. or get one amp rated for 1500-2000w RMS and you should be good.
doing this will require you to get a high out-put alternator( atleast 200amp, 200-300amp) as well as a deep cycle battery(like optima yellow top, kinetik, batcap ect..) .
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
make sure you check the specks on the amp too a 1500w rms amp may mean 1500w @ 4ohms or 3ohms. a capacitor is needed but you dont need a new alternator. ive done at least 15 complete audio installs on mine and my friends cars never needed new alternator would help but not required new battery not a bad idea but not required unless yours is relativly old. Running that much juice dont play it with the car off too long. but deffinatly a decient size capacitor and youll have no problems.
p.s. look at JL audio amps best out there. also be carefull some amps will say 1600w but thats the max power not the rms so check those specs good luck. hope i helped
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
Do yourself a favor and stay away from bestbuy when it comes to installations for audio. Go to a reputable car audio dealer, or better yet Do It yourself! Its really not hard at all, and its quite fun! Pluss you'll get the enjoyment out of knowing you did the instal!
 

·
herbivore
Joined
·
1,579 Posts
Do yourself a favor and stay away from bestbuy when it comes to installations for audio. Go to a reputable car audio dealer, or better yet Do It yourself! Its really not hard at all, and its quite fun! Pluss you'll get the enjoyment out of knowing you did the instal!
omg, doing it yourself is better than going to Best Buy? I can't tell you how many f'd up installs we fixed at Best Buy. If you don't know what you're doing... don't do it! And while some installers are hacks, at Best Buy and many other shops, you can get your car screwed up at any shop if they decided to hire a meatball. If you know or have good reason to believe that a shop around you does bad work, whether it be a car audio dealer, or Best Buy then don't go there. I worked for 2 years at Best Buy and while, yes, one of the installers was not good and got fired, the two others and myself did quality work and knew our limitations. A lot of independent shops hire people that learned by working on their own and friends cars. While some are actually quality installers, some just plain suck. Make sure your installer is AT LEAST 'MECP Advanced' certified and can prove it (he would be given a certificate).

Don't do it yourself because you'll fall flat on your face when you get a ground loop or some other small, but elusive problem that arises. Go to a shop, talk to the installer(s), get a guarantee on the work (like Best Buy), and don't be afraid to pay $75/hour for work. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

If you are wondering how to properly match a sub and amp, you shouldn't be doing your own installs.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
127 Posts
the amp you need is the kicker zx1500.1, kicker made that amp specifically with the L7s in mind its 1500watts RMS and will handle both subs perfectly
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
128 Posts
omg, doing it yourself is better than going to Best Buy? I can't tell you how many f'd up installs we fixed at Best Buy. If you don't know what you're doing... don't do it! And while some installers are hacks, at Best Buy and many other shops, you can get your car screwed up at any shop if they decided to hire a meatball. If you know or have good reason to believe that a shop around you does bad work, whether it be a car audio dealer, or Best Buy then don't go there. I worked for 2 years at Best Buy and while, yes, one of the installers was not good and got fired, the two others and myself did quality work and knew our limitations. A lot of independent shops hire people that learned by working on their own and friends cars. While some are actually quality installers, some just plain suck. Make sure your installer is AT LEAST 'MECP Advanced' certified and can prove it (he would be given a certificate).

Don't do it yourself because you'll fall flat on your face when you get a ground loop or some other small, but elusive problem that arises. Go to a shop, talk to the installer(s), get a guarantee on the work (like Best Buy), and don't be afraid to pay $75/hour for work. YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!

If you are wondering how to properly match a sub and amp, you shouldn't be doing your own installs.
Although I agree with your thought that some guys are better than others. I don't agree with discouraging someone to do their own install. It's how any of us learn, we try, we fail, we learn from our mistakes, and try again. A little bit of reading and most people would be able to do a basic install...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
make sure you check the specks on the amp too a 1500w rms amp may mean 1500w @ 4ohms or 3ohms. a capacitor is needed but you dont need a new alternator. ive done at least 15 complete audio installs on mine and my friends cars never needed new alternator would help but not required new battery not a bad idea but not required unless yours is relativly old. Running that much juice dont play it with the car off too long. but deffinatly a decient size capacitor and youll have no problems.
p.s. look at JL audio amps best out there. also be carefull some amps will say 1600w but thats the max power not the rms so check those specs good luck. hope i helped
JL's stuff is "ok", but not the end all/be all of amps. They are nice mid to upper consumer level audiophile stuff. You're paying for the name "JL" as much or more than you're paying for sound performance. The key when selecting an amp...as always...comes down to available funds. Personally, I prefer old school audio (hence the name) ESPECIALLY when it comes to amps. Source units and cables...not so much. A little when it comes to speakers, but the quality of the components that went into the old school amps was so much higher than the stuff out of China these days...for my ears anyway...its an unfair fight.

It all depends on what the person is after sound wise. I could take an old school HiFonics amp, say an Odin, and run those subs hard AND musical for less money. IMO of course. :D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Ofcourse now I'll age myself because when I was growing up "Kicker" was called Stillwater and Orion had HCCA Amp that were KILLER!! Gotta have love for the old school stuff. :bigthumb:
Ahhh...yes...the good ole days. lol :laugh:

Guess what I have that will be going in the lude this spring????

Two of my old school amps that are brand new...never powered up...I have mint in the box...Orion NT100 and NT200. :bigthumb:

I still have about 9 old school amps that I can seem to let go of. lol I just saw a NIB PPI AX606.2 on ebay, and it went for $850. Should have bought it, but...I have a very nice one already. But NIB's are SO rare.

I'm still kicking myself.

Stillwater Designs...wow...that takes me back. :cool:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
Ofcourse now I'll age myself because when I was growing up "Kicker" was called Stillwater and Orion had HCCA Amp that were KILLER!! Gotta have love for the old school stuff. :bigthumb:
A fellow Michigander I see...very cool. I grew up in GR, and graduated from Adrian. :D

Where in MI are ya?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
128 Posts
A fellow Michigander I see...very cool. I grew up in GR, and graduated from Adrian. :D

Where in MI are ya?
Grew up in Rochester Hills now living in Clinton Township...you still stay in MI?

BTW I'm 34...figured since we new the same sounds from the old days no use in hiding it...LOL...half the time I think I'm still a kid :)

Never really invested the money to be a true audiophile, but I sure appreciated what I got to see and hear.

Still deciding on the final direction of my Prelude, but thinking of going active crossover with a JL 300/4 driving the fronts. JL 12W3V3 in the trunk currently driven by an older MTX 300 watt amp...but may switch over to the 250/1 or maybe the 500/1....not sure, actually I'm not too happy with the efficiency of the slash amps...But I have the 250/1 and 300/4 already, so what you gonna do...:rolleyes::laugh:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
JL's stuff is "ok", but not the end all/be all of amps. They are nice mid to upper consumer level audiophile stuff. You're paying for the name "JL" as much or more than you're paying for sound performance. The key when selecting an amp...as always...comes down to available funds. Personally, I prefer old school audio (hence the name) ESPECIALLY when it comes to amps. Source units and cables...not so much. A little when it comes to speakers, but the quality of the components that went into the old school amps was so much higher than the stuff out of China these days...for my ears anyway...its an unfair fight.

It all depends on what the person is after sound wise. I could take an old school HiFonics amp, say an Odin, and run those subs hard AND musical for less money. IMO of course. :D
good point all depends on funds and expectations but also personal preference i have had kenwood, alpine, pioneer,pp, and JL amps in my cars. i like the consistincy, heat disapation, mounting applications, and the fact that all the wires enter on the same side for a clean look with the slash series.
JL amps yes your also paying for the name but same goes for mugen parts. i have have several sets of speakers, subs, amps, head units and i stick to what i like and know will get the job done. im sure the same goes for you with the old school amps. i use alpine head units not too expensive great ipod play, boston acoustics interior speakers again not too expensive great sound quality, jl audio 10" w7 and jl 300/4 and 500/1 slash v2 stacked to save space. also full trunk covered with stinger roadkill. great loud deep bass in a small trunk.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
the way i have always had my system set up was with an amp that puts out a bit more power than the woofer can handle. it gives you cleaner bass. just remember to turn the gain down a bit. i currently have one 18 thats running 4000wrms. but the amps could put out 5000wrms if i turned them up all the way.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top