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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK... I went and got my car alligned and these are the numbers I got after the alligment.. now please note I just got konig verdicts 17x7 with 40mm offset and they rub, but ONLY on the drivers side rear.. what do I need to do to fix this???

CAMBER:
Left front: -1.9degrees
Right front: -1.2degrees
Left rear: -1.9degrees
Right rear: -1.5degrees
TOE:
Left Front: 0.00
Right Front: -0.01
Right Rear: 0.05
Left rear: 0.14
THis is on a 4g Lude with a Eibach pro-kit installed.. it looks to me like a need camber kits all they way around.. can someone suggest a good set for all 4 corners.. I KNOW there are some topics on this I did a search, but most were dicussing 5g and I could really use the help...

THanks,
andres
 

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did you ever curb the left side of your car. those camber numbers more resemble a car that's had suspension arms slightly bent on the left side.

honda cars easily ben their control arms. hit a curb and it could bend one.

-1.9 degrees of camber in the front with pro-kits are way too much. -1.2 sound a little more on the money.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well to be honest the car has been hit on the left front side and the left rear side.. so that could be it.. I never curbed the car though.. damn.. well aside from buying new arms, will a camber kit, front and back solve this problem, or IF they are bent will they be NO good??

ANdres

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1994 VTEC
Eibach Pro-kit, KYB AGX shocks, AEM CAI, AEM pullies, Thermal exhaust.
 

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Just have someone check the arms to see if it's bent. I dropped my car 1.4" with HR Sports and had -1.9°. So it's possible that the drop caused the negative camber. If it's a bent arm, then fix it and have the camber checked out again. You may not need a camber kit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, but which is cheaper?? AND will the camber kits still work if the arms are bent??

Thanks,
andres
 

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It takes a helluva whack to bend an arm- most of the times it's the bushings. Almost MORE common, though, is that you shifted the entire front subframe (and maybe the rear for your rear impact). It might be worth it to have the shop put the car up on the rack, then loosen and shift the entire subframe assembly (has all the suspension pieces tied to it). Should be 4 large bolts you loosen, shift everything, then move it back.

A camber kit *should* do this too, but obviously will cost you more.
 

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I'll say this again and again-there are Camber kits for the problem you are trying to solve. My 99 Base was very much like your 4th gen until I installed kits from INGALLS on the rear and Specialty Products on the front. (My situation is a bit different as the front of a 5th gen was redesigned and uses different parts.) You have the data-call both companies for their part number recommendations. I bought everything from Ultra Performance in Tuscon, AZ. Your car uses the same type kit both front and rear.

As to clearances, you may still need to work on that. I do not know what your offset is stock, but assuming it is +55 you should not be using rims below +42 I should think. There are several articles on rolling fender lips-I recommend that you have a pro do it if you are in the least concerned about the paint. Otherwise the baseball bat method will work.

Hope that helps

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Prelude forever-It's so nice going fast on the open road
 

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by jc836:
I'll say this again and again-there are Camber kits for the problem you are trying to solve. - snip -
</font>
The problem as I see it is not the increased camber but the uneven camber. All things considered, the lowering should affect the camber equally. Provided the install was done right (I'm assuming we're talking about springs, not just wheels) he shouldn't have the uneven camber side-to-side.

The kits should fix this, yes, but I'd be more concerned about the subframe being shifted (fix the problem not the symptom).
 
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