[mr_lude2000]

I am a little confused with what the instructions are asking for this thing.

1. remove cai pipe.
2. chop in half and remove an inch of piping somewhere.
3. insert valve to one of the newly cut pipe ends and tighten.
4. do the same with the other side.
5. it says to do something with the flap on the valve. this is the part i need clarification on.

can anyone help?
thanks in advance!

 

[not rice]

u have to cut the intake in half? what???? i didnt know that ewww

 

[Pete]

I saw this in one of the magazines last month. It was either Honda Tuner or SCC. They had it on a NSX. They were doing something to the flap with a screwdriver, kinda pushing it in or something.

Do they tell you in the instructions WHERE to mount the valve? I would think that you would want the valve as far away from the throttle body as possible.

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This is a special week...

 

[Modern Angel]

It was actually in last months issue of Turbo .. yeah, they just added the bypass valve to an NSX and then put it on a dyno and dunked the intake into a aquarium full of water while the NSX was at WOT.. they then pulled the intake out of the tank and water had gone up the tube a bit but didn't reach the valve.. it just kept churning around and stayed in the intake while air continued to flow through. Kinda cool I guess.

Anyway, I don't remember them saying anything about having to do anything special to the flaps.. they just put a screwdriver up to them to show how they work. I think you can pretty much put the intake anywhere around the middle of the intake tube and it should work fine.

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.:Modern Angel:.

2001 Toyota Celica GT

 

[mr_lude2000]

actually in the instructions it says...
"Push in on each diaphragm flap of the valve. Make sure that the flap does not contact the inlet pipe..."

so, is this step just trying get you to check to see if the flap is hitting the pipe?

anyways, is the purpose of this valve is to allow a secondary place to suck air into the TB, or to allow water to exit out of the valve? i thought it might be both.

thanks!

 

[o0OO0o]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by mr_lude2000:
anyways, is the purpose of this valve is to allow a secondary place to suck air into the TB, or to allow water to exit out of the valve? i thought it might be both.</font>

i saw the article SCC. when your filter is totally submerged in water, it creates a vacuum inside the intake and the bybass valve would open. so instead of sucking the water into the TB, it sucks in the air thru the valve until the pressure inside the intake goes down, and at that time it can breathe normally thru the filter.

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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Joon525:
I'm one step ahead of you and one step behind o0oo0o</font>

 

[slickshifter]

the trouble with mounting a bypass valve on the 5th gen is where to place it. we are told to place it 1. on a straight part of the pipe and 2. not directly between the filter and the pipe and not directly between the throttle body housing and the pipe. So that leaves us three straigt-away choices: 1. the part where the AEM "dips" down vertically to the side of the battery, 2. the pare where the AEM is directly above where the butterfly vaccum would be (behind the battery), and 3. the straight path where the AEM passes along the distributor cap. Now ideally, if we were installing a bypass valve, we would be looking for a place that it could fit in. The valve is what, 5-6" in diameter? so the #3 position would do just nicely. Accept, i personally wouldn't want to put it so close to the throttle body. That leaves us with #1 which is to install it at an almost vertical position of the AEM pipe as it goes down into the fender. This would be okay, accept AEM advises to put it "as far above the filter element as possible" or something like that. That leaves you with #2, which is friggin' hard. Cuz you have to contend with 1. the mounting bracket where the nut and bolt would go to keep the AEM from moving and 2. clearance b/c the butterfly vaccuum thingy is in the way.

All this trouble for this damn valve. I haven't even installed it yet.

slick

 

[slickshifter]

sorry for that long post, BTW:

they ask you to push in on the flaps to make sure there's clearance so they can work properly, so you are correct.

they are just making sure you didn't put the two ends of the cai in too deeply to the bypass valve in such a way so that it can't "open" when it needs to do its thang.

slick

 

[mr_lude2000]

thanks slick!

now i just need to install that thing. its been sittin around for about 2 weeks.

i will probably be putting it by the part where the bolt thingy is (even if its a b*tch).

i checked the pipe one day after driving and the upper part of the pipe was kinda warm which bothered me, especially when i had planned to install valve there.

 

[slickshifter]

taaaaaa! i beat you dude, my cai has been sitting around for three months and my bypass valve for 1. I finally got the sucker cut (yes, by the bolt thingy) and just need to sand the filings down nice and smooth. i'll install it with the bypass, test it, see how it runs, then likely replace it for the summer months with a rubber sleeve and put the valve on in the fall-winter months.

i know, i know, h-a.net ppl say forget about the damn valve. but i just don't wanna risk it.

 

[Guest]

<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by slickshifter:
taaaaaa! i beat you dude, my cai has been sitting around for three months and my bypass valve for 1. I finally got the sucker cut (yes, by the bolt thingy) and just need to sand the filings down nice and smooth. i'll install it with the bypass, test it, see how it runs, then likely replace it for the summer months with a rubber sleeve and put the valve on in the fall-winter months.

i know, i know, h-a.net ppl say forget about the damn valve. but i just don't wanna risk it. </font>

Any pictures? Can anyone post measurements of where they cut the pipe? How much they cut off? This would help a LOT of us out...