Why I am probably going with a GReddy header from a Fujitsubo
A lot of people have been asking me about my decision to go with the GReddy header....
This is why......
My exhaust is rusting on the resonator (I've seen EVERY exhaust brand that isn't stainless steel rust) in the rear, so bad that it is flaking.......so I bought a Tanabe Super Racing Medalion. As you know the exhaust that currently is on the car is cut to accommodate the Fujitsubo. This means that I have to cut the new exhaust which I'd like to NOT do.
So this would mean that I would have to cut the Fujitsubo which I kinda don't want to do either because cutting that header takes a little more skill than cutting a straight pipe (which as you probably know the header's downpipe is not).
So out it goes.
So why not get a 4th Gen Fujitsubo? Price.
Am I downgrading by going to the Greddy? I think I might BUT there's another argument for going that route.
Until yesterday I had a 2.5" cat. I got CELs about every other day for the same thing (code 67 which is the secondary O2 sensor). As I said the cat is now off the car and the stock one is back in.
The Fujitsubo header's collector is 60mm, the stock cat opening is 50.8mm (2") and currently my cut exhaust is 100% 60mm. So the flow goes from big, to small back to big and this is without any transitions. The sizes abruptly change.
For further explanation I have to mention the dimensions of the pipes for both headers. GReddy: (from an email GReddy sent me the other day) The primaries are 42.7mm, the secondaries 45mm and the collector is 50.8mm in diameter.
42.7 - 45 - 50.8 Fujitsubo:
45 - 50.8 - 60.5
Obviously the GReddy is made to go with a stock sized cat opening (the gasket that comes with the Fujitsubo has an opening for the stock cat as well by the way) which is what I'm going to have (either a stock cat or a Random Technology cat, not sure which one yet). So by going with the GReddy I get 50.8mm for a diameter all the way back to the start of my exhaust where it is still 50.8mm but then gradually increases to 60mm for the rest of the exhaust length. In case some of you didn't know the Tanabe exhaust starts out at 50.8mm then increases to 60mm (not sure about how other exhaust companies do it).
What's the best setup? I'm not sure. Who knows how much of a difference the piping diameter makes, maybe it's a lot maybe it's a little.
Either way, I autocross and it's more driver than car to an extent so I'm going to concentrate more on my own skills rather than the car.
So that's my reasoning. As I mentioned in an earlier thread my reasoning isn't going to apply to everyone or even anyone for that matter. If I dyno again and I lose 3 horsepower.....I don't care.
Note: I think my Fujitsubo has an exhaust leak in the flex pipe.
As an added bonus others will learn more on exactly what you have to do to get a GReddy 4th gen header to fit the 5th Gen base model, although it's really not hard at all and no one should have a reason to be "scared" to go for it. That's my contribution to the Prelude community.
Please, no "I got dibs on the Fujitsubo header" posts. I'll sell it to whomever I want to, WHEN I want to.
As far as performance goes the only thing I would have to ask is what's better....an exhaust pipe that is staggered in diameter utilizing big and small pipes or one semi-continuous pipe that goes from "small" to "big".
Who knows? I might actually end up selling the GReddy header and keeping the Fujitsubo...
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Joon... other than the potential exhaust leak issue, why cant you use your Tanabe and Fujitsubo with 2.25" cat custom cut and flanged to fit inbetween?
Originally posted by Kool-Lude Joon... other than the potential exhaust leak issue, why cant you use your Tanabe and Fujitsubo with 2.25" cat custom cut and flanged to fit inbetween?
I could, but I guess I want to experiment too.
Quote:
Originally posted by nmehta211 Ray,
Any reason why you are not considering the Mugen header?
Mainly money. Even if I found one used I can get a NEW Fujitsubo 4th Gen header and mod that. With the money that I would've spent on a Mugen I could've gotten more tattoos. Going the Fujitsubo route gets me both. Going the GReddy route gets me an even bigger piece of art so~~ yeah money. Plus I want to be different.
I just got and will take pictures of the header soon.
The secondaries are LONG on this thing...
like i said before keep the Fujitsubo, the 60mm collector is a lot more beneficial then you think. Honda didnt use the 60mm collector in the JDM ITR header for nothing. SMSP and Hytech headers use close to 60mm collectors. Use that cat and do the obd2 workaround, save yourself the money, and i garantee you will be happy with the results.
get the cams and have SGT tune it for ya, i will guess AT LEAST 190 whp...
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Originally posted by DYI01 like i said before keep the Fujitsubo, the 60mm collector is a lot more beneficial then you think. Honda didnt use the 60mm collector in the JDM ITR header for nothing. SMSP and Hytech headers use close to 60mm collectors. Use that cat and do the obd2 workaround, save yourself the money, and i garantee you will be happy with the results.
get the cams and have SGT tune it for ya, i will guess AT LEAST 190 whp...
I've thought about this a lot even before you posted that (you know this anyway).......and now I'm selling the Greddy.
I think you guys sold me on the Fujitsubo header. I was going to go 5thGen-modded GReddy, but the Fuj and a Carsound 2.25" sounds a lot better. Much better dimensions at x.5 the price of a Mugen.
So, what should I have learned from all this header talk? The Euro-R version fit on Ray's 5th gen with only minor mods (relocation of the O2 bung), right?
...But the 4th Gen version might be a better choice to fit on a Type SH, if the GReddy example is anything to go by - longer collector than the 5th gen Base matches better with the collector length of the 4th gen header...ah, the challenges we face to mod our perfectly good factory stock cars
I see the Fujitsubo on the PolePosition website. Any issues ordering through them? Are they tough to come by, long wait shipping from Japan, anything like that?
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98 FBP Type SH
AEM CAI - Neuspeed Sport Springs - Koni shocks - DC Sports DTM cat-back - 17" SSR Competitions on 215/45/17 Yoko ES100
90 300ZX NA Stage III(soon to be sold for a TTZ)
Stillen Intake - Greddy SP exhaust - JWT ECU
^^^ Another perk would be the 4th Gen comes straight back where the ATR has a slight kink in it getting it close to the crossmember. I think yourself and Ray are on the right track, Ray made a comment in some post somewhere about carsound possibly making a 60mm cat which I would think would be the real deal. As for the O2 bung, depending on the car and header you get you might be able to get away with not having to move the bung. I know I'd check it out first that's for sure.
Originally posted by GP.45 So, what should I have learned from all this header talk? The Euro-R version fit on Ray's 5th gen with only minor mods (relocation of the O2 bung), right?
...But the 4th Gen version might be a better choice to fit on a Type SH, if the GReddy example is anything to go by - longer collector than the 5th gen Base matches better with the collector length of the 4th gen header...ah, the challenges we face to mod our perfectly good factory stock cars
Yes the Fujitsubo fit with a minor modification to exhaust pipe length and cutting a tiny bit out of the center beam plus th eobvious O2 sensor bung. I'll try to get a picture of that sometime this weekend (cut out in the beam).
The 4th Gen one might be a better idea on an SH BUT....I don't know if the flanges on it for the donut gasket would hit anything on the SH. Only once did I ever spend time under and SH and it was for a cat back install on THATPRELUDEGUY's car so I never got to look in the header area.
Originally posted by Joon525
Yes the Fujitsubo fit with a minor modification to exhaust pipe length and cutting a tiny bit out of the center beam plus th eobvious O2 sensor bung. I'll try to get a picture of that sometime this weekend (cut out in the beam).
Whoa, I thought the Fujitsubo ended up clearing all the structural members without needing modification. Did I miss that in the other thread? I'll have to go back and read it again.
Yes, if you could, please post the pics of the cut out in the center beam. I'm sure it must be pretty minor, otherwise you wouldn't have done it
Quote:
The 4th Gen one might be a better idea on an SH BUT....I don't know if the flanges on it for the donut gasket would hit anything on the SH. Only once did I ever spend time under and SH and it was for a cat back install on THATPRELUDEGUY's car so I never got to look in the header area.
Whoa again, am I reading you right? The 4th gen Fujitsubo has the donut flange flex joint rather than a braided flex pipe? If so...hmm, you could be right about the flange causing clearance problems - may have to rethink this...
__________________
98 FBP Type SH
AEM CAI - Neuspeed Sport Springs - Koni shocks - DC Sports DTM cat-back - 17" SSR Competitions on 215/45/17 Yoko ES100
90 300ZX NA Stage III(soon to be sold for a TTZ)
Stillen Intake - Greddy SP exhaust - JWT ECU
Originally posted by GP.45
Whoa again, am I reading you right? The 4th gen Fujitsubo has the donut flange flex joint rather than a braided flex pipe? If so...hmm, you could be right about the flange causing clearance problems - may have to rethink this...
Interesting thought but where the flange would be I doubt there would be any major rubbing issues. Also how little the center cross beam would have to be modified isn't much at all. I'm betting I could get good enough clearance with one or two really good hammer whacks if the car was on a lift.
ok im posting here cause its in the sticky but i found out that the oem 4th gen collector gasket is to big for the ring machined into the collector of the greddy header
you need one from a si collector honda part number 18393-SH3-S00
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