I have done a lot of research but I just cant get straight on how to tune my prelude. I know I need an integra computer so I can hook it up to a hondata of other tuning computer. What exactly do I need to tune my prelude? what is the best computer for my mods. My lude has injen cold air intake, dc header, crower stage 2 camshafts with springs and steel retainers, and a test pipe. I just finished installing my camshafts and I heard I need to tune them so my engine doesn't run lean. PLK thanks.
You can get a p28 ecu from a 92-95 civic 5spd.
Then you can run some sort of engine management.
You will also need an obd2-obd1 conversion harness as well.
I have a Hondata s200 if you're interested.
Let me know.
Ok so just get a p28 computer with a ob1 harness and tuning ecu? I live in San Diego and I haven't heard of any good tuning places, I think I will just a hondata since I heard good things about those ecus. I will then find a good tuner maybe up in LA. I really want to get this done since I don't want my car to run lean. How much are you asking for the s200 GroundZero112?
you NEED it if youre running stock IM, p28 doesnt understand iabs
and probably you also NEED better/bigger injectors as well (stocks duty cycle is too high around 220hp)
if you have stock IM you need p72 ecu that iabs work
also its highly recommended that you get adjustable cam gears with any stage 2 cams
do you have base of sh?
You do NOT need a p72 ecu if you have a stock IM.
Your iabs wont work but it doesn't really matter.
I ran stock cam gears with stage 2 cams.
You really don't need them unless you're getting some really agressive cams or cams that cannot be "dropped in"
You definately do NOT need bigger injectors.
I was making 213whp with my stage 2 cams, ported head, all bolt ons etc and still had some head room on the stock injectors.
Stock injectors will be fine, same same with stock cam gears. Using the stock cam gears you may not be getting the most power out of the stage2 cams as they are not dialed in for the best power, but unless you have some other serious supporting mods you should be good with setting the cams to 0.
You do NOT need a p72 ecu if you have a stock IM.
Your iabs wont work but it doesn't really matter.
I ran stock cam gears with stage 2 cams.
You really don't need them unless you're getting some really agressive cams or cams that cannot be "dropped in"
you cannot really tune your engine that well without adjustable cam gears, they will help even with stock cams! so I really think that theyre good investment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo
Using the stock cam gears you may not be getting the most power out of the stage2 cams as they are not dialed in for the best power, but unless you have some other serious supporting mods you should be good with setting the cams to 0.
+ they weight less - slightly better revving engine
Quote:
Originally Posted by GroundZero112
You definately do NOT need bigger injectors.
I was making 213whp with my stage 2 cams, ported head, all bolt ons etc and still had some head room on the stock injectors.
Quote:
Originally Posted by bouckarooo
Stock injectors will be fine, same same with stock cam gears.
My car made 224hp and stock injectors came to end of their road
that tuner said it might be even dangerous to drive with them in longer run (specially in winters)
Ooh ok I see. I knew cam gears weren't really necessary for my stage 2 cams with stock idles plus I ran out of money during the process of installing my cams so I didn't have money to buy cam gears. After running my stage 2 cams for almost 3 weeks I see the difference only when my lude hits vtek but to tell you the truth I was expecting more from them. I know I have to tune my car but I really don't know if I should continued spending more money to tune my car if its going to feel about the same. I was just thinking running my car untune for about 6 months until I can fully built my h22 for a turbo. what do you guys suggest?
the n/a stage 2 cams wont see too much of big difference unless you have increased your comrpession and then upped the rpm by means of valvetrain upgrades. The n/a cams you have are more for an engine that will rev to around 9500 rpm, and have comrpession of 11.5:1 or higher. On a quasi stock engine( with stock rpm limit), all the stock fuel components will be good enough as you wont be spinning the engine up enough to outpace the injectors.
If you wanted to tune the engine to get optimum power then i would suggest getting a wideband and a decent ecm setup. Then tune away. But if your short on dollars then perhaps you should have just kept it stock and focused on your turbo plans.
I can tell you form expereince that building a correct turbo engine is very expenisve, difficult and quite demanind of cash, like very demanding of cash. So to do a turbo build whiuel a n/a build is quite tough ( since i starting gathering the stuff for my turbo setup i have built a stock speck h22 as well as a stage 2 natural aspirated H23 VTEC, it has been fun as well as chalenging and unless you are financially stable and can afford to partake i wouldnt recomend it.) just my opinion though.
Ooh ok I see. I knew cam gears weren't really necessary for my stage 2 cams with stock idles plus I ran out of money during the process of installing my cams so I didn't have money to buy cam gears. After running my stage 2 cams for almost 3 weeks I see the difference only when my lude hits vtek but to tell you the truth I was expecting more from them. I know I have to tune my car but I really don't know if I should continued spending more money to tune my car if its going to feel about the same. I was just thinking running my car untune for about 6 months until I can fully built my h22 for a turbo. what do you guys suggest?
dont never EVER start to make budget builds!
and if you have now NA parts, turbo parts are different... so you've gone wrong there
of course those cams seem to be lame if you havent tune your engine/ecu. my car went crazy even when I changed my IM and ported head! there were no torque at all, but when tuned correctly it was like whole different car!
Yea I know I should never start a budget build. I did had 2g's to drop into the car but unfortunately my sis crashed my jetta(work car) and I had to get it fixed. So now I got another 900bucks and I planning on tuning.As for bouckarooo I definitely understood what you said about the cams and head work but after I saw a video of a lude on youtube with stock bottom end and crower cams I was amazed. Here is the link to the video,
I really want my h22 to run something close to the one on the video. I know I dont have the same bolt ons but I expecting my prelude much better after the tune. The only thing that im missing in comparison with the lude on the video is the exhaust system, flywheel, and wideband.
Its ok, i havce a built h23 with BC Stage 2 cams and supporting valvetrain, but i will be tuning it with a standalone aem ecu with wideband, as well as some other supproting mods.
Budget builds can be done howeverm unless you are ogin to be doing the work yourself you wont get too far with small budget.
The h23 vtec i jsut tore down and reassembled had cost me right around the mark of about 3800, possibly more as sometimes its hard to keep track of everything.
In the end the most important part of teh process is the quality of craftsmenship and the quality of tune that is put on it.
by the way, the lude int he video is nothign really special. I mean, sure hes launchign his car (and not so well i might add ) but the thign that gets me is that this guys car is suppose to be stage 2 BC but, if so why is he limited to stock RPM? You see the BC vavletrain is suposed to take teh engien up to 9000 rpm - 9600 rpm, and being N/A in trim you would think you would use this extra part of the powerband, seeing as thats when the n/a engines make the most HP.
i think it wil be intertesting to see what results you garner form you budget build, when you get done post the pics.
Last edited by bouckarooo; 01-24-2012 at 05:46 PM.
but the thign that gets me is that this guys car is suppose to be stage 2 BC but, if so why is he limited to stock RPM? You see the BC vavletrain is suposed to take teh engien up to 9000 rpm - 9600 rpm, and being N/A in trim you would think you would use this extra part of the powerband, seeing as thats when the n/a engines make the most HP.
is it safe to rev engine with stock bottom that high?
I thought that I keep rev limit too around 8000 with my head build, dont want to brake that engine (having stock bottom also)
but Im with Skunk2: "Pro 1+ Camshafts are designed to optimize mid-range and top-end horsepower and torque, with peak power realized at the factory redline."
Well, redline of an engine is based more upon what the alve train can operate at. The stock bearings are good to 10k. Personally, i find it odd that one woudl build an N/A motor and keep the reline so low, to have N/A power you usually increased the powerband as you have increased the amount of power the engine makes up high.
I cannot wait to get home from work this time as i have my H23VTEC in the car all mounted and ready to go with the exception of the bisi header and the tune.
As soon as i get the chance i will get that engine going and try head to a dyno to see what kind of addition i have made on the motor.
one another note, it is possible (especially when usign skunk2 stuff) that you can put on a satge 2 setup andmake less power than the stock setup. Theer is a guy on here who did a n/a skunk2 build with cams and what not a\n dhe is making onoly 149 ho, with type s pistons i think too hahahaha
here is a video of a stock spec H22A4 with refreshed cylinder head and the car as other mods as well. Not really a launch but i had to book it onto the highway to keep pace with traffic.
one another note, it is possible (especially when usign skunk2 stuff) that you can put on a satge 2 setup andmake less power than the stock setup. Theer is a guy on here who did a n/a skunk2 build with cams and what not a\n dhe is making onoly 149 ho, with type s pistons i think too hahahaha
theres have to be something gone really wrong in that engine
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