u had better lock that car up. beter yet man take all that stuff inside your house and put it in a safe. It would suck for some **** head to come by and rob u. Good luck on your build man.
•5speed m2y4 (quaife installed should be fun once i get used to driving)
•Vibrant header 2.25" to 2" cat to 2.25" rsr catback
•OEM pullies
•Top mount intake manifold w/carbon fiber pipe and HKS filter
•83-77mm tb
•fluidampr crank
•325cfm ported head, new valvetrain, custom spec crowers 1mm milling spun and degreed by AEM
•8lb act prolite flywheel
•CF dual friction clutch
•few other knick knacks
will see how she does, starting the head off right with signature series amsoil, will prolly be staying with that for the summer until my membership with them expires, then will investigate this torco and eneos a little more to see what's cheapest for my means.
aye, just got the new fittings on order, so told the tune shop to hold off til wednesday so they can install the new fuel lines and parts so they will be drilling a new vac line to accept the hydrogen and just capping it off for now
BTW : you should definitely run regular dino oil during break-in. Don't run synthetic. This has been discussed a lot before, so some searching on Honda-Tech will tell you why (if you haven't heard this before).
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So my head was milled about 1mm ~ .040in (or exactly .0394 in)
The head gasket is stainless steel, so im told it won't compress, but the tuners say it will. It is 50 thousands measured at the corner in 4 layers. The engine builder did all of this on his model h22 and came out with 11.5:1 compression which is just right for my modest build. So I want to keep that and not have to put a thicker head gasket on
Now the tuners are worried because they like to run cams at tdc, but my engine builder has said to run with -1º on the intake, and +3º on the exhaust for clearance and power with the custom cams and milling.
At any rate, I am going to go with the engine builder, but just to be safe I will be doing my first clay testing on the head.
My question is this: If I set the degrees as the engine fab said to for starters, put on some clay on each of the pistons, and turn the cams, that gives me the primary lobe clearance. But how do I test the vtec lobe clearance? The tuners say I need a tool, but my builder says I can switch the long pin with the short pin and turn like normal and it will turn the vtec lobes.
Can somebody confirm this, or show me what pins he is talking about, or heck even a brief description of it ill prolly see them and hit myself for not seeing them; just being cautious here.
My question is this: If I set the degrees as the engine fab said to for starters, put on some clay on each of the pistons, and turn the cams, that gives me the primary lobe clearance. But how do I test the vtec lobe clearance? The tuners say I need a tool, but my builder says I can switch the long pin with the short pin and turn like normal and it will turn the vtec lobes.
The pins they are talking about are the locking pins used to engage the VTEC rockers. Look at the head section of the Helms manual and you will see it. You need to insert locking pins so that the VTEC rockers are always engaged, and they clay the motor again.
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hmm sorry guess i didnt change that, but i think there's a pic of it.....at any rate
yes, on there right now is a 2" i/o random tech hi flow, wasnt proved to restrict any exhaust flow from my vibrant to the rsr setup on previous testing, but am putting a larger 2.5" i/o one on with the custom header that will be tested together once the header is back from ceramic coating and the weld shop putting on a good flex pipe
oh wow, i forgot about being on this forum site. The first tune was unsuccessful because the IM had been cracked sometime so that took another month to find a good stock IM, report it and grind out the runners.
The 2nd tune of the car is scheduled to happen sometime this week once a local machine shop finishing honing the cam caps that I got so will get some pictures up of the tune and new engine bay when I get the car back, lord willing this saturday *sigh* i've almost forgotten how to drive the poor lude being away for a year or so off an on now.
The 3rd tune will probably happen in spring with the new header and larger cat i/o so from then I can give a name for an option on custom headers for N/A applications or call it crap depending on how it turns out vs the vibrant 4-2-1 that is already on there.
The Secret Services tuners here in Houston seem a bit skeptical of the design since the car is targeted to be a daily driver and the way the plenum looks it is designed for very high revving for max effect (duh...it is n/a) But they have done nothing but impressed me in my few conversations with them so I think alot of their comments are for my own benefit to keep the car reliable
All in all, let's hope for the best, I will have the HHO kit tuned into the ecu maps also this round so I can record a ****ty copy of that unless somebody in the Houston area has a vid camera and wants to meet up sometime to get a better copy since my good sony camera was stolen sometime in August.
oh wow, i forgot about being on this forum site. The first tune was unsuccessful because the IM had been cracked sometime so that took another month to find a good stock IM, report it and grind out the runners.
The 2nd tune of the car is scheduled to happen sometime this week once a local machine shop finishing honing the cam caps that I got so will get some pictures up of the tune and new engine bay when I get the car back, lord willing this saturday *sigh* i've almost forgotten how to drive the poor lude being away for a year or so off an on now.
The 3rd tune will probably happen in spring with the new header and larger cat i/o so from then I can give a name for an option on custom headers for N/A applications or call it crap depending on how it turns out vs the vibrant 4-2-1 that is already on there.
The Secret Services tuners here in Houston seem a bit skeptical of the design since the car is targeted to be a daily driver and the way the plenum looks it is designed for very high revving for max effect (duh...it is n/a) But they have done nothing but impressed me in my few conversations with them so I think alot of their comments are for my own benefit to keep the car reliable
All in all, let's hope for the best, I will have the HHO kit tuned into the ecu maps also this round so I can record a ****ty copy of that unless somebody in the Houston area has a vid camera and wants to meet up sometime to get a better copy since my good sony camera was stolen sometime in August.
Run into another problem...cam caps honed them down, still not enough, local shop says I need to run without valve pins... so tune will not have the ported head nor exhaust. At this point I just want the car in my possession again so am picking it up with the HHO, intake work, the obd1 swap into ectune pro. The new valvetrain is being put on the stock head while the ported one goes back to get worked on by the official engine builder and I'll be able to put the new cams in the stock head. Hoping to break a simple 190 mark with that and will go back to praying for 210+ #s whenever I get the cam cap problem worked out properly.
Still missing new header, cat, tuners want me to sign a waiver to tune it to full potential without higher compression on the block (still stock) so this limited alot.
Next tune will be with vtec, hydrogen on full, and 2.5" exhaust throughout (now is 2.3-2io cat-2.3 catback)
183/173 as it is now unfinished for the moment, also they said the clutch started spinning around 6k rpm... which is where the big cams want to throw in vtec lobes... so any comments on that would be interesting:
clears hood just fine... I can assure you I took proper measurements before even beginning heh.
Huge throttle response to the pedal, big sound especially with the vibrancy of the CF.
The water is my electrolyte brew for hydrogen induction. If I get a vid camera for christmas i'll record its sound at idle and some revs, for now I just have my cell phone for those pix
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