is there anyone in here that has had the crower or skunk2 stage 1 cams? If have how were the gains? If i went with the stage 1 cams which would be a better all around cam, and which one is more aggressive? I dont realy know how to read cam specs.
Last edited by ludesiffer; 07-14-2005 at 12:12 AM.
By definition as the stage of the cams increases, the aggresiveness and power gain of the cam will also increase (Stg.3>Stg.2>Stg.1). Most typically a Stage-1 cam will offer slighty increased power and allow you to retain your stock valvetrain. The majority of Stage-2, and above, cams will require you to upgrade your valvetrain to be able to handle the increased lift, duration, and overall stresses. Though, the higher the stage of cams, and if you build and tune the motor correctly, very impressive gains can be realized.
so the skunk2 stage 1 is a little more agressive right? Also if you dont change the valvetrain do you still need to switch from the auto to manual tentioner timing belt swap?
also if i were to get stage2 cams without tunning them would there be any kind damage? I know you wont get full gains without tunning but can there be engine damage?
No damage really, but its a waste of money without tuning, gains will be minimal.
As for the vtec lobe question, it depends. Some do and some dont. The crowers come in 2 varieties (stage 2) one with a stock idle lobe and one with a modified idle lobe.
If you change your springs, you'll probably have to adjust them a few times until they break in. I had to adjust mine 3 times, ran fine until my stage 1 crowers snapped 2 months later. I replaced them with the type S cams, was running fine until my auto tensioner failed 6 months later. Supposedly the new Crower cams are 20% stronger than the old cams.
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Let's Compare the Crower Stage 1's to the Type S cams. Crower Stage 1
Intake Duration: 307 Lift: .459
Exhaust Duration: 318 Lift: .428
Type S
Intake Duration: 306 Lift: .469
Exhaust Duration: 310 Lift: .438
The crowers have more duration, while the type s cams have more lift. I'm not sure how that will translate into performance. The Crowers will probably have ruffer idle than the type s's, because of the increased duration. I don't know if it will even be noticiable though. Experts chime in please
Last edited by precisionelite; 02-28-2006 at 02:29 AM.
Let's Compare the Crower Stage 1's to the Type S cams. Crower Stage 1
Intake Duration: 307 Lift: .459
Exhaust Duration: 318 Lift: .428
Type S
Intake Duration: 306 Lift: .469
Exhaust Duration: 310 Lift: .438
The crowers have more duration, while the type s cams have more lift. I'm not sure how that will translate into performance. The Crowers will probably have ruffer idle than the type s's, because of the increased duration. I don't know if it will even be noticiable though. Experts chime in please
As Todd has pointed out many times, you can't compare cam specs from different manufacturers. Each manufacturer measures duration using a different lift threshold, and measured lift really says nothing about it's ramp profile.
The only absolute way to know is to buy them all and measure them with a runout gauge. It has been proposed before, but I don't think anyone's done it yet.
I believe there is some information regarding this in the cam threads in the N/A library.
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Crower mesured their cams and the type s's at .10'' so I believe they are directly comparable. For ramp speed, I believe your right. I'm trying to gleam all the information I can from what is given...like in college algebra :-)
Crower offers 2 mesurements for duration, one at .010'' and the other at .050''. If we comparing these 2 wouldn't we be able to get a rough estimate of ramp speed? At least in comparison to the type S cam and other crower cams.
Last edited by precisionelite; 02-28-2006 at 06:08 PM.
Have the stage 1 skunk2 cams in mine and I have been real pleased. Really helped the car out from about 70mph on. I had mine installed and took it that weekend to have it tuned. Made a 14 whp on the dyno. Careful though mine was running very lean when they made the first baseline. I would fatten it up a liitle on the top end once you get them just to be safe if you are not going to put it on a dyno right away.
Coparing the two dynos up to about three grand the lines almost overlaped. New pull ran just a shade above the old one. After three thousand all the way to redline it made real good gains. Really helped on the v-tech cross over, could hardly see it on the dyno pull. The torque curve really changed. more of a straight line instead of being real peaky. Did not fall of real quick either. Send your email on a pm and I can send you the pdf's of the two to compare.
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