Got the car back now, if you want to see what all is done check out the thread skunk2 plus headwork. It feels awesome, especially after the vtec engagement. One problem I have already thrown 2 cels!!!!!! WTF!!! should this be happening?
The car is an sh and i was reading the NTPOG guide to Cel codes,
Would the ATTS light blink or the CEL light blink. If im to count the lights on the Cel it would be a code 7(7 short blinks). The ATTS light is blinking too. It has 4 long blinks then 3 short blinks a code 43 i guess. What am i supposed to go on? A code 7 is throttle position curcuit and the code 43 ( from ATTS) isnt even on the list at NTPOG. Help!
Regardless of if it has to deal with the ATTS system or not ATTS disables when there is a CEL. So ignore the ATTS light for the time being.
When you got all the work done did you get a new throttle body with it? Grab the voltmeter and see what the volt values (turn the car to on, but don't start it) when you take the readings from the TPS lines.
http://www.h22a.org/phpBB/viewtopic....93&forum=10&17
some guy there said his friend with skunk 2 stage 2's got only 172, to the wheels. Sounds like bs, but i wonder wat your gonna get. I hope this isnt true. And that your car reacts better to the cams.
sorry you might be disapointed but i just got the car dynoed and as soon as i scan the pics ill post em. I made 183 with the cams, get this.. there is a huge trade off when tuning them, torque or hp. If i advanced the intake and retarded the exhaust i got lots of torque, like 140s and no hp(like 169). I made the most power with the intake cam retarded one degree and the exhaust advanced 4 degrees(183.9 and got no torque, like 131). Bassackards aint it. Ill post the graphs tomorrow. By the way those are SAE numbers and the humidity was like near a 90%, he said correct those numbers for that and we are looking at 190's. I hope thats good, kinda disapointed though.
no bone stock bottom end, thinking about type s pistons and some light weight rods, getting the crank lightened and knife edged, then everything balanced with out the balancer shafts and belts. also i have a factory cat too, wonder if a hight flow or test pipe would help me out with my mods more than stock. also no pulleys yet, want aem underdrive set. What you think then.
Yea man go test pipe, im running one, you really could feel the gains, i think those high flow cats dont work, they end up getting clogged after a while. And basically turn into a cat after a while. But i dontr know thats wat i think.
Originally posted by bolivianfuego Yea man go test pipe, im running one, you really could feel the gains, i think those high flow cats dont work, they end up getting clogged after a while. And basically turn into a cat after a while. But i dontr know thats wat i think.
High flow cats DO work, and with any part you'll eventually have to replace it when it's lifetime is over. Running catless is completely stupid for daily driving. You don't need the extra 1 hp you get from it.
183.9 is what you got from the Skunk2 cams w/ the valve springs and retainers? Uhm, that's a gain of 4 hp over my dyno which includes only i/h/e/v-afc. No internal modifications.
edit: Looking at your sig, that also includes the port job on the head and intake manfiold?
kae, i dont really see the need inspending so much in a high flow cat, when i could sped like 40 bucks for a test pipe. Its all truely on a opinion, wat you think a daily driver is. SOme people think tein ha's are too stiff for dailly driving, others live with it. Get me?
There are several factors for dyno runs. plus my intake is ghetto fabulous, the exhaust is custom, the cat is stock, and that maybe enough to throw it off a little. But it was humid and this was with me tuning, i dont know how to tune, all i did was make sure the air/fuel plot was around 13.8 to 14.0 and play. i already feel sick about the numbers, you dont have to rub it in my face, and i am doing some more mods then heading straight back. as for you and your 179 or so odd hp, congratulations. remember that my car is an sh and some cars dont respond as well as others do.
Originally posted by bolivianfuego kae, i dont really see the need inspending so much in a high flow cat, when i could sped like 40 bucks for a test pipe. Its all truely on a opinion, wat you think a daily driver is. SOme people think tein ha's are too stiff for dailly driving, others live with it. Get me?
[Rant]
No, a high flow cat setup costs around $80-$100 and plus you're not killing everyone around you when you drive. It's not an opinion that with the straight pipe you're polluting 50x more, and it's not an opinion that carbon monoxide, even in small amounts can cause major health issues. Unless that 1 hp that you gain from it is the deciding factor in a SANCTIONED race then all I can say is the fumes got to your brain.
[/Rant]
As per the Skunk2 cams I'm assuming that you disconnected the battery when removing the head so how long after did you get it dynoed? Since it MIGHT of been OBDII correcting a little, but still that's very weak gains compared to my engine. I tuned mine similar to yours via only V-AFC fuel changes and this was my result.
Who did the P&P work and have you had any other issues w/ the car? Possibly the valve seats weren't done correctly or the valves were not prepped before install. It's just strange (in my mind) that your dyno showed so low.
edit: My car is a '98 SH so the ATTS system has nothing to do with it.
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It's not an opinion that with the straight pipe you're polluting 50x more, and it's not an opinion that carbon monoxide, even in small amounts can cause major health issues. 
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