RMF header, or better instead DC will hurt your gains from the cams....might as well get a higher stage clutch not much difference with a stage one.....you MUST do the h23 manual timing belt tensioner conversion with higher lift cams..well you don't have to do it, but a good safety measure....get some motor mounts....also send your intake manifold off to blacktraxs to get re-worked instead of the skunk 2 IM...they can bore out your TB also..
hope that helps..what I would do...
__________________
97 base 5sp black/Rota slipstreams, 16" 13.5lbs./BFG Gforce KDW2's/Tein SS/Ingals camber kit front and back/power slot rotors/aem pads/AEM short ram intake/Hytech header/2.5in highflow cat/Rsr Ex-mag exhaust/VAFC2/PLX wideband/UR Ultra SSc pulleys/skunk 2 stage 2 cams/springs/retainers/skunk 2 camgears/H23 manual tensioner conversion/ES inserts/clutchmasters stage 3 clutch and CM 10lb flywheel
I would opt for a higher flowing header with a high flow cat and custom exhaust.
As for a clutch, an Exedy cermatallic, Competion Clutch cerametallic, or Spec cerametallic clutch would be overkill, but would work very nicely. Also consider a lightweight flywheel, either aluminum or 4130 chromoly.
With a swap, I would certainly freshen up the engine. Even though the sellers say the engines only have 30k to 45k miles on them, they'll generally be in fair to rough shape. The engine I bought off of Hmotors to install into a 92S had dry rot on most of the rubber bits. I replaced all the seals except for the valve seals and head gasket. I would suggest doing at a minimum: timing belt, manual tensioner swap, water pump, oil cooler o-ring, water pipe o-rings, valve cover gasket set, VTEC solenoid gasket, distributor o-ring, rear cylinder head seal (install an aftermarket seal), both cam seals, balance shaft seals, front and rear main seals, driveshaft seals, exhaust manifold seal, Hondata intake manifold seal, new thermostat, and have the injectors cleaned.
I would suggest doing at a minimum: timing belt, manual tensioner swap, water pump, oil cooler o-ring, water pipe o-rings, valve cover gasket set, VTEC solenoid gasket, distributor o-ring, rear cylinder head seal (install an aftermarket seal), both cam seals, balance shaft seals, front and rear main seals, driveshaft seals, exhaust manifold seal, Hondata intake manifold seal, new thermostat, and have the injectors cleaned.
www.slhondaparts.com or www.hondaautomotiveparts.com for parts prices. IIRC, I charged about $500 (labor only, parts were separate) to replace all those seals since the engine was out of the car. The cost would be higher if the engine were in the car since access is much more difficult.
Oh, I should add that you should change all of the coolant lines (heater hoses, radiator hoses, etc).
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.
Linear Mode
