Question on buying a short block - Honda Prelude Forum

AMorgan · 08-27-2009, 12:06 PM

This seemed like the best place to put this, so my mistake if it's the wrong section. Just for reference, this is an F23A1 short block.

I found a short block i'm interested in buying that was previously used for about 100 miles on a engine build but it cracked the ringlands with some HIGH compression aftermarket pistons. It now has the stock pistons (pistons and rods would be scrapped anyways). Should I even consider this block? Things I should look out for when I go look at it? I basically just need the block, sensors, and crank, etc. I plan to use some aftermarket rods and different pistons in it. Just checking to see if it's even worth looking at before I drive out to take a look. My biggest concern is would cracked ringlands have an effect other than potentially scoring the cylinder walls?

petern101 · 08-27-2009, 01:23 PM

Is this just for fun project car or a daily driver?

AMorgan · 08-27-2009, 01:31 PM

It's going to end up in my track car. Ultimately it'll be overbored for some larger pistons, its getting beefy rods, probably going to balance, knifedge and treat the crank. For now though, i'll probably just do rods, some new OEM pistons, possibly a hone on the block and get it running and running decent. Obviously i'll be replacing bearings and seals, etc. I just want to make sure I don't have to worry about the casting now being weak, etc.

Artifex · 08-28-2009, 12:41 AM

Okay let me give a quick rundown. Here is what you DON'T want:

Overheated engine. Overheating means the block could be warped, especially the deck.
Oiling issues. This one is the worst. It means that the motor could have spun a bearing. If the block had oil problems, then there could be any number of issues with the crank journals. A lot of times even the most aggressive machining can't fix these problems, depending on severity.
Crank balance issues. This one is almost impossible to know before you measure a block. If the crank pulley is off, or a build uses imbalanced parts on the rotating assembly, then the crank journals can get out of round. This will give you problems like the one above.

I would really never buy a used block and not have the crank journals line bored. In talking to the experienced builders, about 50% of blocks they see need some kind of line boring to get the journals back into shape.

AMorgan · 08-28-2009, 07:54 AM

Thanks Artifex. Just to be clear, I wasn't planning on buying it, throwing some bits together and running it. It'd go straight to a machine shop before it even saw an engine stand. I'm still wavering a bit on if I want to go this route or not. i may just end up sleeving the H22 for some forged internals. Part of me wants to be "different" and make sure the sanctioning body does dyno class me, the other says I have a running if tired H22 that could run like a champ if I go over everything, get it cleaned, get some machining done, etc. I'm starting to think they'd end around the same price.

incultcir · 10-25-2009, 10:12 AM

Awesome work guys!!! simply amazing. Anyone have any tips to getting started with this sort of thing? stock photo sites, how you do things ect. I'd love to give this a shot next time so any info would be great

fastkill · 10-26-2009, 09:27 AM

wf who eats spam anymore get that **** outta here.

AMorgan · 10-26-2009, 09:54 AM

This is worse than spam, this is old post bump spam. Moderators, feel free to lock and bury/delete this thread. I ended up making a decision on this already and it doesn't seem to serve much purpose beyond that.