What is the best camshaft for me to get. I have high compression pistons, comptition valves and port and polished head. Would i be able to get a wild cam if i got stiffer springs? Where can i find stiffer springs and a good cam?
Would a lightweight flywheel help out alot?
Would i be able to spray nitrous with my high compression if i use a small shot?
Will i need a diffeerent programmer and if so, which one should i go with?
__________________
2000 Chevy Silverado: 9" lifet 38.5" pro comp X terrians, billet grill, clear corners. for sale for the right price
Who did the P&P? What kind of valves? Aftermarket valves and a stock valve job and a mild polish job won't contribute much to the cam that's needed.
For OS valves even with 11:1 CR or better I would suggest a Crower Stage 2. I would go to the 3 if you have a pretty wild port job & are 11:1 or better.
I'd recommend a Crower Stage 1 or Type S if you don't want to upgrade the valve springs and are 10.5:1CR or less with a mild polish job.
Get springs/retainers to match the cam. I'd suggest Crowers which you will need for their Stage 2 or 3 cam.
A lightweight flywheel will go a long way towards improving the feel of the car. Probably as much or more than anything else.
A light spray would definitely be compatible, just be sure you go with a wet system. Reprogramming will definitely be needed. Hondata or Neptune would be recommended, an AEM EMS would be a good replacement for the stock ECU altogether.
Where do u suggest i get all this stuff at? I dropped my head off at a very good, local, high performance shop and they said they would put in competition valves and blend the bowls and somthing else, adding about 25 hp. I will be ok with getting stifffer springs. Since a stage 3 and stage two cost the same, would a stage 3 be all right? What shot of nitrous will be safe. Forgot to say that it is forged internals. How much will a programer cost and where can i find a good one at?
__________________
2000 Chevy Silverado: 9" lifet 38.5" pro comp X terrians, billet grill, clear corners. for sale for the right price
Any good shop should have an account with Crower or be willing to set one up. Worst case you can order online from crower.com.
Stage 3 might create some idle issues. If you want an all-drag motor, go for it. I would get your builder to weigh in on what they are doing with the head vs. what cams are available. They should be able to help, if not, I'm not sure how confident I would be in them. The type of head work (the extent of it) should be considered when getting the cam.
Keep in mind that other things like the intake, throttle body, and header/exhaust will become bottlenecks with a Stage 2 or 3 cam.
The motor can probably handle 100 shot with all forged internals, but the programming must take this into account. I personally wouldn't run more than a 75, otherwise the tuning gets tricky. I definitely recommend a wet shot or a reprogram/ECU that will support nitrous control.
There is no "programmer" like there is available for domestics. You MUST know what you are doing when you program these things. The 2 reprogram options that come to mind are Hondata and Neptune, regarded as they best. They will require "chipping" your ECU and a dealer will have to reprogram and dyno tune it for you. Expect to pay $100 or so for the "chipping" service, then dyno/programming time (usually 2-4 hours, charged by the hour).
You can also go with an AEM EMS, it is a plug-in replacement for the factory ECU (for $1200), though it will require the same tuning the above one will require. It has more flexibility though probably nothing that would really benefit your application.
It would really help for you to find someone local to you that is experienced with Hondas that can talk to you about YOUR build and lay out your options & help you figure out what's best.
Ok, i Went to the shop today, and yes he has an account with cower. I told him my compression was 10.5:1 so he said he would do some research on it. Will a stage three cam make my valves or would they hit. my piston is notched for my valves, but i dont know how much. As for the head goes he is going to blend the bowls, mildly port and polish the head,and do a 5 angle valve job on the stainless valves.
He also said that the prelude head comes fairly nice from factory and he is impressed with it compared to the v-8's he is used to working on.
Aslo would i need to retard the timing at all to run a 75 shot of nitrous with this set up? And obviosly I will need cooler plugs but how much cooler?
__________________
2000 Chevy Silverado: 9" lifet 38.5" pro comp X terrians, billet grill, clear corners. for sale for the right price
Stay away from stage 3 cams with 10.5 pistons, that isn't enough compression. You'll idle poorly, your low end will lose a lot of power, and your high end won't be any better than stage 2's. Crower 2's would be the best choice, and I would still recommend upping compression a bit more. Ask them about milling the head a bit to increase the cr to maybe 10.8. Like marcucci said, stage 2's really work best with 11:1 cr and up.
Can't say anything about setting the timing for nitrous since I don't have N2O. Your shop probably won't advance it any like they might have if you weren't running N2O.
__________________
~Matt http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2928232 Intake: AEM V2 TB: 68mm ProProducts IM: Euro R IM Insulator Gasket: Hondata Header: Hytech knock off with 2.5 collector, ceramic coated Cat: Vibrant 2.5" SS Exhaust: 2.5" SS w/ Magnaflow mufflers Tuning: NepTune RTP w/ Wideband Underdrive Pullies: AEM
Last edited by camarokiller; 10-26-2006 at 11:39 PM.
The AutoGuide.com network consists of the largest network of enthusiast-owned enthusiast-operated automotive communities.
AutoGuide.com provides the latest car reviews, auto show coverage, new car prices, and automotive news. The AutoGuide network operates more than 100 automotive forums where our users consult peers for shopping information and advice, and share opinions as a community.