About 5 months ago I purchased a 97 Prelude Base for $1650.00. I thought it was a pretty good deal. It has some cosmetic issues but I plan on building it up and making it look better after i've performed some performance mods. So right now its bone stock. It just hit 220k miles so i know its a lot. Coming in January I will have about $2500 dollars to put into it. I want to spend all of this on performance mods. I'm not a mechanic but I'm very mechanically inclined and have worked on cars with my dad since I was a youngin. So I can do some things but I'll have to invest in the help of others. I know I most likely can not get everything on my list with the January budjet. But I just want to get a basic start and build more as time goes on. Please give me your advice on my parts and if they go well together. Also, this is not my daily driver and I'm building it to do some light circuit racing. I dont have a whp number that i have to reach. I just want to build and see were im at when im done. I want to do some minimal internal mods, but I will not have a huge amount of money to throw into this car. So, I need to be getting the value parts on every end I can. If you know of parts that are comparable and cheaper or just slightly more expensive then please let me know. This parts list is primarly for power. I will work towards suspension, LSD, axels etc. at a later time.
Here is a list of what I've gathered from researching on this site and others that match my goals:
Engine Managment: Neptune RTP / Demon / P28 ECU Package or Hondata S300 "which ever is cheaper" or any other suggestions that are comparable and can meet the tuning needs.
IM & TB: Skunk2 Intake Manifold "is there a cheaper comparable IM?" Is there a Throttle Body I can use that wont have to be port matched to the IM and will work with a AEM V2 CAI? Or does port matching not cost a huge amount. If the later can you suggest a good size, ie. 68mm?
Exhaust: Full 3'' exhaust "anyone know of a bolt on kit? So i can do it myself."
Exhaust Mani: Still need help with this. I've been thinking about Megan 2&1 Racing header and test pipe. Its cheap. But I need something that will fit well with the 3" exhaust.
Clutch and Flywheel: F1 Racing Stage 3 clutch & Fidanza Flywheel.
Gaskets: Honda Full Gasket Set "i thought I should replace all gaskets on the motor since it has 220k miles and I'll be racing the car."
Fuel Pump: Walboro 255
Injectors: RC 550cc Injectors, "Still unsure at how Resistor boxes work and if I need one?"
Radiator: Mishumoto Racing Radiator and Fans. "is this needed or is current OEM okay?"
Pistons: Type S pistons. "Seems like these are very expensive. Anyone know of something as good but cheaper? BTW I dont plan on sleeving the block. It's just not in my budjet."
Top End: Skunk2 Cam Seals, Brian Crower Stage 3 Cams "something cheaper and just as good?" Ferrea 5000 Series Special Alloy Valves, Ferrea Dual Valve Springs, Ferrea Titanium Retainers, Ferrea Spring seat Locators, Ferrea Radial Groove Keepers, Ferrea Bronze Valve guides, Ferrea High temp valve seals and Port and Polished Head. "Do i need to totally rebuild the head, or can I skip on some parts and keep oem?"
Bottom End: I have no idea what cost effective solutions I could do to the bottom end. Any suggestions would be awesome.
Thats all I have for now. I would appreciate any help at all on these mods and the direction of my track car. Also, if there is a list of these parts that I can get with my January $2500 budjet that will get this car up and running then please help me list what to do first to get the car going for a little track time.
Thanks ahead for any advice and opinions!
Last edited by jacobsizmore1; 12-09-2011 at 12:40 AM.
i kno the megan headers are hit and miss as to quality....wont gain much over stock with it either. theres a group buy on here for a nice header check that out. with 2500 you should have a nice i/h/e set up easy.
with $2500. You can spend it on the head and tuning.
The head is what makes power.
I'd go with good bolt ons, 3" cold air intake, hytech replica header, 3" exhaust.
Then send off your head to a reputable head porter like RLZ or portflow.
Skunk2 pro1 cams.
You're good to go.
That alone is going to cost you more then $2500 though.
Seems like the biggest part of my budjet is going towards engine managment. Can i get an I/H/E setup without the need of tuning? Or does anyone know of a cheaper engine managment option? Also, say I were to just go with a header and 3 inch exhaust at first. Does that require engine managment? Thanks for the help.
if you were to get I/H/E, then it would definately help with engine management. It will maximize the gains. Also tuning a stock h22 will pick up some good power as well because its not tuned very well from factory.
go with hondata s300. tri-y for your header. stay away from fidanza 8lbs.. only use their 11lbs. only use honda gaskets. 550cc injectors are a little high. you could go with 440cc and be golden. just keep an eye out for some oem type-s pistons. and i would say yes, rebuild the head, completly. go with skunk2 stage 2 cams. better than BC stage 3s (and i think cheaper) but yet not as big and aggressive as the pro1s. for your bottom end.. have it honed, hot tanked, re-decked (resurface deck), have rods reconditioned, replace all bearings with ACL race bearings and replace all studs with ARP studs.
2500 budget is only gonna call for cut coners. to build up a reliable h22 its gonna be about 4000. thats tune and machine work. and if you do alot of the work yourself. if you have a shop do everything.. youre looking at 7-10k
I have Skunk2 IM and just got 66mm Blox TB with it (so that I dont need to port match them together)
You should rethink that cam situation, many people say that Skunk2 cams are better than Crowers? Like Skunks Pro 1's are claimed to be "The Pro 1 cam is the BEST ALL-AROUND STREET CAM" (got mine on this week )
Vibrant header is one option (ordered one )
And I have Mishimoto radiator & fans, still Im not sure does they fit with those performance headers since its 1,57" (4cm) closer to the header than stock one...so I might change the radiator back to stock. We'll see when the header arrives.
Pistons...there are few choices atleast: CP, Mahle, Wiseco
You should really think that bottom, if you get stage 3 cams, all the power is in high rpms, and bottom should be rebuilded with good parts that it can handle that
***Rosko Racing*** I bet that Rosko can help you out, he's dealing almost everything you might need there
but you cant really build whole engine with that money what you have (cams and valvetrain itself costs something like ~1000$) so you need atleast 5000-6000 to get started (and you have to renew all the seals and gaskets as well)....and Id like to remind you that if you do/buy everything at once and install them at once you'll save money. you dont have to tune it many times and you might get bigger deals when you make bigger buy
if you were to get I/H/E, then it would definately help with engine management. It will maximize the gains. Also tuning a stock h22 will pick up some good power as well because its not tuned very well from factory.
Seems like the biggest part of my budjet is going towards engine managment. Can i get an I/H/E setup without the need of tuning? Or does anyone know of a cheaper engine managment option?
go with hondata s300. tri-y for your header. stay away from fidanza 8lbs.. only use their 11lbs. only use honda gaskets. 550cc injectors are a little high. you could go with 440cc and be golden. just keep an eye out for some oem type-s pistons. and i would say yes, rebuild the head, completly. go with skunk2 stage 2 cams. better than BC stage 3s (and i think cheaper) but yet not as big and aggressive as the pro1s. for your bottom end.. have it honed, hot tanked, re-decked (resurface deck), have rods reconditioned, replace all bearings with ACL race bearings and replace all studs with ARP studs.
2500 budget is only gonna call for cut coners. to build up a reliable h22 its gonna be about 4000. thats tune and machine work. and if you do alot of the work yourself. if you have a shop do everything.. youre looking at 7-10k
explain why he should go s300 instead of neptune or what kind of advice he needs to really determine what engine management he needs to use? If you are just shouting out products because thats all you know then say so.
If you are looking to do circuit racing, your midrange and the area just below vtec will be a BIG factor in exit speeds. In that case, i would go with skunk2 Pro series cams. if you are sticking to 11:1 and below compression, stick with pro1 cams.
true critiquing:
2500 isnt anything to be competitive in circuit racing. hell i could spend 2500 in suspension, brakes and tires without even going into detail and be faster than you with less power. this isn't a drag car. the person with the greatest entrance and exit speeds who can maintain control, wins.
an ebay clutch for road racing? really?
Personally i would leave the engine alone and focus on suspension, braking and traction. if you want to increase acceleration, use a bigger final drive.
I guarantee you a properly setup car with less power would rape a car with more power and a poor overall setup.
in saying that. I have oversized mahle pistons (11.5:1) and eagle rods for sale for 450 shipped.
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Blake - Neptune Tuner/Dealer
ALL MOTOR big body honda that will eat your lunch
some of the stuff you have listed is way over kill for just starting off.
what are you trying to do hit 230whp or more?
bang for buck (with out going with nos)
this is what i would do in this order until money runs out
1) conver to obd1, crome is free and works prefectly fine + tune
2) get a shorter final drive !
3) logic header
4) stock im with butterflies removed and ported out
5) pro1 cams or rocketmotorsport cams
6) rocketmotorsports dual valve springs (snap fit to work with stock retainers)
a lot of the stuff you have listed like ferra valves, fancy vavle guides ect are not needed
start with that.
Vibrant header is one option (ordered one )
And I have Mishimoto radiator & fans, still Im not sure does they fit with those performance headers since its 1,57" (4cm) closer to the header than stock one...so I might change the radiator back to stock. We'll see when the header arrives.
there were no problems... just gotta have slim fans with aluminium radiator
heres an interesting thread reagrding the skunk2 products and how they are made (in taiwan).
theres nothing new in that. theres a quite few companies who doesnt make their stuff abroad.
is it better or worse than chinese do it cheaply in taiwan or mexicans do it cheaply in US?
Im pretty sure its all about materials. If you use good materials its good product. If they pay less for the work, it doesnt really mean that the outcome is any worse than someone in western world do it from same materials and get bigger paycheck.
Yes, i posted those two links to show that many of the products skunk2 claim to make in house and do the RD on are not done. Many think S2 is the best there is but they are not better than many of the companies they(s2) claim they are.
In the end it is personal choice, i personally have had expereince with both good and bad parts form s2, i think what it comes down to is what you want to spend moeny on.
It is interesting as aside form skunk2's own race team very few actual race teams use their equiptment/parts. I dunno, i figured i would post these two links so others can be informed of the products they buy.
I know its not new, but it is relavent, as the k20 site shows the different companies who bring in the same taiwan parts and then label them as their own, and that is just not true. thats all.
Get DSM 450cc injectors. Cheap and effective. Save you money and run your oem fuel pump until it dies. It will work just fine for n/a use. Take your factory IM and gut the inside of it.(You can search google for write ups and designs.)
Ask your tuner what to get for engine management.. some like Hondata some like others... Once you get into things costs can add up quick! Leave a hundo or two for unexpected costs cause there will be some! Find a GOOD machinist!
Lots of good advice here. Suspension, brakes and tires are more important if your going to race at the track.
you still will not find a shelf cam that makes better power.
This, S2P1's with their valve train including the flat faced valves for a slight compression bump, every stock engine setup with these has made the most gains for the money.
OP would be best off just focusing on suspension, tires and brakes for now, adding power wont help when the car can't corner on a road course. $2500 can be burnt in easily on suspension and tires, actually might not even be enough considering the condition of the car and if any bushings need replacing.
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Last edited by minilogoguy18; 03-27-2012 at 06:06 PM.
I personnally race my Prelude in local Time attack competition. I'm pretty fast in my class (won the last race) and my car is almost stock on the motor.
Like other say modification to the motor is the last thing you wanna do, dont do beginners mistakes.
Here is the way to go
1- Upgrade brake pads & fluids with higher boiling point, Hawk brake pads & ATE super blue racing on mine. (300$)
2- Suspension, Koni yellow on Neuspeed race are a good cheap combo (1000$)
3- Good tires! If it's a track dedicated car go with Hoosier's, I run Hoosier R6 225/45R15 on Rota slipstream 13 pounds the ratio is better with some smaller diameter tires that stock one's (1500$)
4- For a little add in power, a P28 chipped, AEM cai & exhaust, you can remove the butterflys in stock IM too... it will give you a little bit of power in high RPMs (1200$)
5- Have the car interior stripped, you can easily removed 150 pounds, it will give you a better HP ratio.
Just with those parts you burn 4000$ but I swear, It's THE way to go.
Hope it will help you to take good decisions. HP numbers impress in a parking lot but times on the track will be a lot more satisfying.
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Honda Prelude 96 RaceCar
H22A All motor !
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