Hey, i have an h22 with the following..
type s pistons (a4 open deck block)
skunk2 stage 2 cams
skunk2 cam gears
skunk2 retainers and v. springs
ferrea valves
skunk2 IM
Edelbrock 65mm TB
manual tensioner
aem fuel rail
aem fpr
aem intake
greddy header, exhaust
hight flow cat
sci ignition
msd blaster ss coil
msd wires
vafc, p13 and p72 (not that these matter depending on what advice i get)
So what i would appreciate help on is my ECU choice. Any advice on what would work best with my setup without dropping high dollar such as aem ems. I have looked at greddy emange, a used hondata setup (should i go p72 or p28) these are the things i need info on. What is your ecu choice?
If it's between the P72 and P28 I would get what's cheaper. Most of the time the P28 is cheaper but sometimes you can find deals on the P72 (I got my P72 WITH OBD2->OBD1 harness for 200 flat).
Yea, the only thing i dont like about the p72 is the power drop just before vtec
Well if you are getting Hondata then that can be completely removed. The P72 powerdrop before VTEC only happens when you run a factory mapped p72 on the H22.
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I would go with the P72 to maintain your knock sensor functionality.
The p72 knock board is useless on a h22, it will detect massive false knock near vtec x-over and pull lots of timing.
Only worthwhile if you plan on installing a p13 knock board in the ecu (direct swap if you can solder)
Yep i agree wiht Alphajesse. Look into Hondata as its very cost effective. Look around though your area, at local tuners. What they use and are good with you should look into. Probably hondata but you get what i mean.
The p72 knock board is useless on a h22, it will detect massive false knock near vtec x-over and pull lots of timing.
Only worthwhile if you plan on installing a p13 knock board in the ecu (direct swap if you can solder)
Know what the difference is? A component value, or does the knock board have a small micro on it?
Know what the difference is? A component value, or does the knock board have a small micro on it?
Good question. I have both a P13 and a P72 right now, so I will take a look and find out. The answer is kind of irrelevant though, since nearly all tuners I know of ignore the knock function entirely. You can leave it enabled, but it's not all that accurate.
FYI, there is a small micro on it. However, I believe that it is customized for each engine based on resistors like the mainboards are.
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The p72 knock board is useless on a h22, it will detect massive false knock near vtec x-over and pull lots of timing.
Only worthwhile if you plan on installing a p13 knock board in the ecu (direct swap if you can solder)
I think that's what I may want to do personally, I remember you mentioning they are swapable in another thread. I think for a daily driven vehicle with higher compression that wants to last as long as possible running a p28 isn't the smartest choice unless you have any aftermarket knock-retard system.
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Mon-Fri 8:00am-5:00 pm PST -Replacement and Performance Parts for all Import Automobiles- E-mail: sales@importrp.com
Good question. I have both a P13 and a P72 right now, so I will take a look and find out. The answer is kind of irrelevant though, since nearly all tuners I know of ignore the knock function entirely. You can leave it enabled, but it's not all that accurate.
FYI, there is a small micro on it. However, I believe that it is customized for each engine based on resistors like the mainboards are.
Yes, there is jumper configuration, and a microprocessor on the KS board.
I have read that people have converted knock boards on pgmfi.org, but no details.
Should be entirely possible if you have 2 ecus to compare.
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