I've alreay got I/H/E/VAFC and I plan on getting a set of pullies soon. I want to save up some $ for headwork, but what's the best route to go. Cams, springs, valves, retainers and a P&P. Does that sound like a good place to start? Any other suggestions. I'm kind of a newbie when it comes to headwork so don't flame on me for it.
JG 900 for P&P, retainers, springs, and new seals, modified valve guides for high lift cams, hot tanked and cleaned, swirl polished stock valves. They also make cams for the H22. With that head package you can upgrade to new stainless oversized valves, double valve springs, titanium retainers, and chamber welding. That gets pricy though. I have an H23 so titanium retainers were not available, but I got aluminum ones, comp single springs, new swirl polished valves (not oversized), and my chambers welded. I got a "hook-up" But they said to do that style head again it's gonna be 3000. The chamber welding was the expensive part. They spent 40 hours welding and blending the metal in. That's a freakin work week! But it was so worth it. I also got a set of JG cams, cam gears, and throttle body all of which are great. I'll post some pics for you. Mike
Do you mean closing the deck? If so then no. Chabmer welding has nothing to do how well the head seals with the block. It raises the compression and, changes the size and shapes of the quench area, and changes the flow pattern of the intake air. The compression is raised about .5. The quench ares are now smaller and kinda square. This keeps the air/fuel consentrated which forces more air/fuel right next to the spark plug for better combustion. Now when the flame front is going forward it doesn't have to go all the way to the edge of the cylinder as before, it goes where chamber stops. This forces it down sooner and bec it's going sooner less energy was lost with the forward travel which is now consentrated on pushing down. By changeing the flow pattern and the tumble the air makes when in comes in you can cram more air in there. If you get the tumble right you get a sucking action. Since the air is spinning more it atomizes the fuel better for a better more efficient combustion. It was by far the best engine investment ever! But I got a severe hook up. But if you want a good bang for your buck take a look at JG's Redline Series heads that are on sale right now for $900 and their Pro-Series heads which are $1250.
I would get other things out of the way before you crack open the motor. I have, in order or purchase, i/e/p/h/vafc/im gasket/motor mounts/testpipe. My car ran 14.2 in Janurary with no passenger seat and no spare tire. Plus I trapped fairly close to 100mph, which proves my setup is pushing out power. I would recommend those things first, especially the testpipe, that alone made me go from 14.5 to 14.2, (plus the weight reduction). Also some sticky tires will go a long way in helping, my times are all with 2.2xxx 60ft times, which aren't too great when you want to hit low 14's. Just some food for thought......
Originally posted by red92s 19924WS: you ever get dyno numbers from your head package?
I'd love to get a dyno pull, but the cheapest one I know is 100/hr. I'm not gonna spend that to know what the hp is. I'll do it if it were cheaper. Right now I'm trying to get eveything installed that I have purchased; receiving everything I purchased; and getting some G-force t/a drags. I'm not goin to the track till I get those. I'm waiting for the JG over bore throttle body, LS ECU, MSD: 6A, blaster 3, and wires. Then I'll head out to Maple Grove for a runny run.....and post the slips of course. And back to the post, you should look into getting ALL the bolt-ons that you can before you get into head work. When you do the head work get everything (P&P intake mani, bigger TB, cams, cam gears, and head package. It makes install that much easier. Mike
What was your compression? My next step in my motor is possibly to get a VTEC head or maybe a JG head package down the road. But isn't it true that with a tired bottom end it could possibly blow the rings on the piston with the stiffer valve train?
Just what I've heard in general not just pertaining to the lude.
good luck at the track! Just to let you know depending on what numbers you get could decide where I go with my build. Sounds like youre really happy with the parts though!
Originally posted by Blitzbaster02 I would get other things out of the way before you crack open the motor. I have, in order or purchase, i/e/p/h/vafc/im gasket/motor mounts/testpipe. My car ran 14.2 in Janurary with no passenger seat and no spare tire. Plus I trapped fairly close to 100mph, which proves my setup is pushing out power. I would recommend those things first, especially the testpipe, that alone made me go from 14.5 to 14.2, (plus the weight reduction). Also some sticky tires will go a long way in helping, my times are all with 2.2xxx 60ft times, which aren't too great when you want to hit low 14's. Just some food for thought......
I've already got I/H/E/VAFC and pullies once I get paid. Wheres a good place to look for test pipes?
Originally posted by irishpilot 1992 4ws How many miles do you have on you motor?
What was your compression? My next step in my motor is possibly to get a VTEC head or maybe a JG head package down the road. But isn't it true that with a tired bottom end it could possibly blow the rings on the piston with the stiffer valve train?
Just what I've heard in general not just pertaining to the lude.
good luck at the track! Just to let you know depending on what numbers you get could decide where I go with my build. Sounds like youre really happy with the parts though!
159,000. The new compression is ????? JG never told me, I ask everytime I call but no one knows except for Javier and he doesn't talk to anyone. He gave me his cell phone number but never pics up. I'm guessing it raised it .3-.5, but that is a guess. About the tired bottom end: failure only comes from a stiffer valve train because you only would get a stiffer valve train when you get bigger cams, and bigger cams mean more hp. The failure comes from the inc in hp, not the stiffer vavle train itself. Happy? Hells yeah I love them. Mike
dude, screw test pipes until you get further along. one guy on here from Hawaii had dropped money on JUN cams and the video of his car sounded badass. if i were you and looking to go the next step, get Jun Adj gears + Jun cams. You'll be able to tune it already with your V-AFC. Then soon enough the Skunk2 manifold will be availble. just my 2 cents. I saw the cams for I believe $750 on Landspeedracing.com.
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