Craig98lude

Well im re-building my motor once again. It should have close to 12:1 compression. I Changed my cams because i had crower stg3's and they broke, so here is my upcoming setup hoping to be done by spring. What are your expectations (HP-TQ) and 1/4miles times with drag radials and a stock weight 5th gen with a pretty good driver. After i get it tuned im going to be looking at doing at least wet 50 shot. (i know alot of the stuff below doesnt matter i just copy-pasted it from a list i had)

-Skunk2 Stage2 Cams
-Crower Dual Valve Springs
-Ti Retainers
-Hondata Gasket
-BlackTrax Supertech Flat Face Valves
-Manual Tensioner
-AEBS Sleeves
-Wiseco 11.25:1 comp. pistons
-.005" Head Shave
-5 Angle Valve job
-Stage 3 P&P Head
-Portmatched Intake Manifold
-Portmatched Exhuast Manifold
- Fully rebuilt all oem honda everything new, except crank
-2 1/2" Test Pipe
-Aem Cold Air
-Aem Fuel Rail
-Aem Fuel Pressure Regulator
-Marshall liquid filled Fuel Pressure Guage
-DC Header (soon to have 2.5in modified collector)
-Aem Pullies
-Apex'i N1 exhaust
-Hondata S200
-Autometer A/F Guage CF Series
-Ngk R 7's
-ES Motormount Inserts
-AC Autotechnic Cam Plug
-SOLO Short Shift Adapter
-Type-S Shift Cable
-Greddy Catch Can

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bolivianfuego

I think if you pic a good head porter to do head work and change the header for say, a SMSP or DTR Fab AKA SSR Engineering Header You can probably hit 230ish 240 tuned correctly. That right there should get your car into the 12s with slicks. That is if your a good driver.

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cdpyro425

dont know about your setup too much or who is building it, but make sure you clay your motor. Its so easy to do and cost effective, it will tell you so much about your motor.
Mainly due to the stg2 cams and your shaved head and flat valves.

Craig98lude

thanks guys any other opinions?

cdpyro425

-DC Header (soon to have 2.5in modified collector)-Portmatched Exhuast Manifold-dont do this on a pretty cheap header
-Aem Fuel Rail-Stock fuel supports up to 300hp-(unless its tapped for the nitrous)
Autometer A/F Guage CF Series(seriously, this gauge is worthless, just a nice light show)

Use the money you were to do these items and get a better header....hell save it for some more tuning...

more realisticaly, you would be looking at a healthy 220 with tuning (depending on dyno type)- Remember in a build for either street or race, your going to have different characteristics for your engine.
Ive met a few people whom tune for peak whp, but in the end run, their car could be slower than a motor with less peak whp, but more area under the curve....

Craig98lude

cdpyro- I had all thoes done already. and i got the fuel rail because i wanted a nice regulator that just bolted on... i get tuning for free so dont have to worry about that!

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cdpyro425

.........hmmm i c... well in that case.....ok.....yeah, *turns and walks out door....*

SoCalude98

.005 gasket is way too thin, I dont see it lasting long at all... Flat faced valves with a high lift cam such as the S2S2 isnt really that great of an idea, you dont really want any additional weight anywhere in the reciprocating valvetrain mass with that type of cam... I would recomend against the crower valve springs, for something as aggressive of the S2S2 cam I would look into something that can handle a lot more lift than necessary with out any accessive spring pressure, such as, the JG Gen2 springs or RM Gen2 springs (I personally use JG, .600 lift capacity).

Better header, IM, etc. But other than that good luck

Craig98lude

i have the crower springs already installed ive had them for about 10k. i used them with my crower stg3's which from what i can tell is a more aggressive cam than the s2s2. also the headgasket isnt .005"... the head is milled .005" i am either going to use a stock headgasket or a cometic. everything on that list is payed for and installed besides the sleeving and the cams.

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SoCalude98

Crower 63423

Int - .468 lift/263 duration @ .050
Exh - .468 lift/255 duration @ .050


Skunk2 Stage 2

Int - .505 lift/272 duration @ .050
Exh - .469 lift/280 duration @ .050

The Skunk 2 stage 2 are much more aggressive (much more lift/duration). I would recomend going with a different spring and retainer set for sure. I dont think Crower even recomends running their stuff with anything over .500 lift, you may want to check into that. Again, the flat faced valves being run on the crower cams (not much lift/moderate duration) isnt too bad. But now that you plan on running a cam that will provide almost .040 (1mm) more lift on the intake side, more duration and a power band that will see a slightly higher rpm range you are really going to want to minumise reciprocating valvetrain mass anywhere possible.

The cometic gaskets are really only good for turbo IMO. For a large bore aplication Id recomend running a laser cut or bored stock gasket.

The 1 5/8 primaries/secondaries on the DC header are going to choke that motor bad, the way the primaries/secondaries are lengthed and sized, it won't do much after 7200 rpm. The collector mod itself isnt really going to do much, as the tail pipe diameter of the collector is such a minumal part of what makes a header perform properly.

As stated in my prior post, the stock intake manifold is also a crunch on potential output. There are a few really nice, affordable options out there for you to consider. I personally have run the JG sheet metal IM with great success.

http://www.jgenginedynamics.com/Prod...800%20copy.jpg

They are all custom built to your specific aplication and have been proven time and time again to be the best bang for buck IM on the market. Some of the big dogs in the industry run them on anything from 330+ WHP NA to 1300 HP FI motors. There are several heavy hitting mid to high 200+ WHP NA street motors out there running them as well. Id definitely recomend giving Javier of JG a call. Hes a very nice and knowledgeable guy.

Craig98lude

Thanks for the Info. i just figured to use a cometic because i was planning on using nitrous

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