My NA H22 Build.. Need suggestions - Honda Prelude Forum

prelude styl · 02-26-2003, 05:17 AM

I've got a HDM H22A in my garage I've been building, this is what I have:
Engine:
JDM H22A

Trans:
SiR S-Spec w/cusco built LSD
ACT Heavy Duty PP
ACT Street Strip Disk
JUN Lightweight Flywheel

Head:
Milled Head 30,000ths
Ported
Valve Job
Type-S Cams
JUN Cam Gears
STR Cam Seal
Crower Dual Valve Springs
Crower Titanium Retainers
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrea Valve Guides

Block:
Type-S Pistons
UR SS Pulley Set

Intake/Fuel:
Ported Intake Mani
Removed Dual Runners
Portmatched all intake mani parts
Hondata Intake Mani Gasket
Removed EGR w/ Plate
AEM CAI
AEM FPR

Exhaust:
GReddy Header
Tanabe Hyper Exhaust
Test Pipe

Management:
P28 Hondata S200

Suggestions:
I'm not sure what brand TB to get, but I'm thinking 70mm
I dunno which brand head gasket would be best, I don't really need any more compression, which would be the strongest?
Not sure what volume RC injectors to get, 370 or 440?
Also is a fuel rail worth getting? If so I'll get an AEM

Anything I'm forgetting? Let me know.

Thanks in advance guys!

TimeRacer · 02-26-2003, 05:27 AM

Depends on how much you want to spend on the throttle body and what sizing that you'd want. Shoot an e-mail to proflowdesign.com, though you'd probably be best off with an ITR throttle body but boring out your stocker is always an option. Which head gasket depends on if you want more compression from it or not. Depending on how high you want to rev it, just stick with the stock or Cometic. I can't see you needing a new fuel rail, getting it would purely be for looks. If you're going to run Hondata push up the injectors to some 370cc's and tune it. Lastly, don't use the test pipe on a daily basis, you'll get caught pretty damn quick here in California.

prelude styl · 02-26-2003, 05:32 AM

heh, funny how I edited my post as you posted, and everything I put up was included in your post.

Yeah I wasn't plannin on getting a fuel rail. And I was leaning towards the 370cc's. What size is the ITR TB? And those are a direct fit right? As for the test pipe, it'd be for track use, I'm going to be using a high flow cat for street use. Any reccomendation on a brand? Oh, and I already have the stock head gasket, should i just stick with that? Will it hold with the raised comp. fine?

71dsp · 02-26-2003, 07:43 AM

What kind of RPMs are you thinking of running? I would consider some water pump and oil pump mods if you plan on racing the engine.

A fuel rail is probably a waste of money, but upgraded injectors might be a good investment. It would be worthwhile to see what kind of duty cycle your injectors are running now at WOT.

The stock head gasket should be fine.

If you can find a Spoon ITR TB, it runs 70mm on the intake side and 64mm (IIRC) on the manifold side.

You could try an Ericks Racing, TB. They come in a few different sizes.

TimeRacer · 02-26-2003, 07:46 AM

The ITR TB is 64mm intake, 62mm manifold IIRC and can be ported out to 70mm if you truly wanted to. Since you're not going all out I'd bet boring out the stocker will be fine. As per the cat, carsound is the best bang for the buck. The stock headgasket will be able to handle the 11.5:1 (approx) compression that you seem like you're going to run. I wouldn't go any thinner since you're already milling the head, the timing will be thrown off if you do.

Satan_SRV · 02-26-2003, 08:03 AM

I ran 370s in my engine for +200whp, I don't think 440s are necessary.

There is a thread in the General Section, STR makes 70mm and 68mm TBs for the H22a

Just a question, why Type-S cams?? There are many better cams on the market. I mean if you are running a Hondata S200, 370cc injectors and 11.5+ CR, why aren't you dropping a wild cam to make power? you're spending all the money for tuning anyway...

prelude styl · 02-26-2003, 02:51 PM

Because Type S cams have higher lifts than Crower Stage 2 cams, but a lillte less than skunk stage 2:
Crower Stage 2- .466/.445
Type-S- .480/.441
Skunk Stage 2- .505/.465

See, so for the $350 I got my Type S cams for, I got cams better than Crower stage 2's, and, I have the relaibility of Genuine Honda, I know these aren't going to break into 2-3 pieces like I've heard skunk and crower do on several occasions.

That's my reasoning.

leptolude · 02-28-2003, 07:15 AM

hey let us in on the place to get type s cams for $350!!! thats a great price!

let us know!!

Ritteri · 02-28-2003, 07:23 AM

TB is going to be a waste, any larger than 64mm at the inlet and youll lose velocity on that motor. Dont mill the head if you dont need to. Send the head out to ENDYN. I fully endorse his valve job and porting too.

Also, your block is JDM right? Is the head too? I believe the Type S JDM pistons have slightly different valve relief angles than the US pistons, so if your mixing JDM pistons with a US head you really need to be careful of tolerances as the angles are slightly off from what I was told by a few very reliable sources. Better off sleeving your block. Too bad it isnt an open deck block for better cooling properties.

prelude styl · 02-28-2003, 01:13 PM

The whole motor is JDM. The motor is already milled (it was for both a compression bump, and to even the head). It's also already ported, but I do still need to get the valve seats done.

leptolude, I got 'em from a buddy of mine.

sharkcohen · 03-02-2003, 05:09 PM

If you are going to get the AEM FPR, you will have to get the AEM rail, as the FPR will only work with their rail. Other than that, there is no need for an aftermarket rail, the stock rail flows plenty of fuel. I'm running the stock rail with 550s and pushing 9 psi. You won't need near as much fuel

If you are planning on running hondata s200 and larger injectors, there is no need for the AEM FPR. Run the stock pressure and size your injectors to your need. Check out RCE's fuel injector worksheet: http://www.rceng.com/technical.htm#WORKSHEET

prelude styl · 03-03-2003, 01:13 AM

Cool, thanks for that link. Yeah I'm going with the 370cc's.. and realize that I don't need the fpr since I have the hondata. Thanks man.

spite · 03-03-2003, 02:03 AM

I'm surprised Billy didn't catch the UR crank pulley. I really don't think it's recommended, especially on a race motor with what I'm assuming to be an increased redline.

prelude styl · 03-03-2003, 11:00 AM

You mean because of the removed harmonic dampener? If so, I know all about that huge controversy, and, with full knowledge am still running it on my car. And yes, it will have an increased redline. Regardless, I'm going to take my chances with it.

UEnvyMyStyle · 03-03-2003, 11:08 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by spite
I'm surprised Billy didn't catch the UR crank pulley. I really don't think it's recommended, especially on a race motor with what I'm assuming to be an increased redline.

yea im not an NA expert but past expierence with UR has been nothin but

i dont think its gonna be worth the few ponies you are gonna get from these, to piss away your hard work

sharkcohen · 03-03-2003, 11:28 PM

With all the rumors about crank pulleys, I personally don't think the few horses gained are worth the potential risk. There are better mods to spend money on.

cuseC08 · 03-05-2003, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by prelude styl
I've got a HDM H22A in my garage I've been building, this is what I have:
Engine:
JDM H22A

Trans:
SiR S-Spec w/cusco built LSD
ACT Heavy Duty PP
ACT Street Strip Disk
JUN Lightweight Flywheel

Head:
Milled Head 30,000ths
Ported
Valve Job
Type-S Cams
JUN Cam Gears
STR Cam Seal
Crower Dual Valve Springs
Crower Titanium Retainers
Ferrea Stainless Valves
Ferrea Valve Guides

Block:
Type-S Pistons
UR SS Pulley Set

Intake/Fuel:
Ported Intake Mani
Removed Dual Runners
Portmatched all intake mani parts
Hondata Intake Mani Gasket
Removed EGR w/ Plate
AEM CAI
AEM FPR

Exhaust:
GReddy Header
Tanabe Hyper Exhaust
Test Pipe

Management:
P28 Hondata S200

Suggestions:
I'm not sure what brand TB to get, but I'm thinking 70mm
I dunno which brand head gasket would be best, I don't really need any more compression, which would be the strongest?
Not sure what volume RC injectors to get, 370 or 440?
Also is a fuel rail worth getting? If so I'll get an AEM

Anything I'm forgetting? Let me know.

Thanks in advance guys!

\

yo, just be careful when adjusting ur cam gears, cuz you might smack a piston into a valve. i have stage2 skunk2 cams and i have about an 1/8 inch clearance. now i know you have type s cam which are smaller but ur head is milled so you might wanna check to see ur clearance before you blow it up.

ameoba · 03-05-2003, 06:10 PM

get rid of those type S cams for all that man, i had S2 stage 2's and they were sweet, if you got the cash JUN stage 3's are sweet too little more power than S2, TB i would go with GUDE and i wouldn't even do injectors unless you get bigger cams, wiht what you have the fpr cranked up will do just fine, the injectors you ave are plenty big, i stayed stock injectors just cranked up the FP with the regulator to like 60-70 psi, kinda hihg, but that alone got me 10hp at the wheels over stock pressure