User marcucci. One of the earliest members of this board, and creator of NTPOG (The North Texas Prelude Owner's Group). I learned probably 50%+ of all my Prelude knowledge from him.
If you are in the DFW area, he is the man to see about getting mechanical help.
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Just to bring a thread back from the dead...I just got quoted on a Quaife install by two local (reputable) performance shops in Portland, OR.
PRE said $640 to bring them the car and the diff. If I just bring them the transmission (and I take it in and out of the car) they will put the diff in for $300.
PSI Tuning (Portland Speed Industries) said $7-800 if I bring them the car and only $2-300 if I bring them the trans and diff.
Of course, tack on about $150 for the bearings (they can be had for $65-75/piece online, not sure on shipping.)
Just thought I'd keep this alive with the going rates
Just to bring a thread back from the dead...I just got quoted on a Quaife install by two local (reputable) performance shops in Portland, OR.
PRE said $640 to bring them the car and the diff. If I just bring them the transmission (and I take it in and out of the car) they will put the diff in for $300.
PSI Tuning (Portland Speed Industries) said $7-800 if I bring them the car and only $2-300 if I bring them the trans and diff.
Of course, tack on about $150 for the bearings (they can be had for $65-75/piece online, not sure on shipping.)
Just thought I'd keep this alive with the going rates
This is good info. However, be warned there is a specific preload adjustment technique required for this. It requires access to several different shim thicknesses from Honda, which Honda does not keep in normal stock. If you buy them from Honda, you will have to wait like 2 weeks for them to ship to you. When I did mine, I had to figure out the thickness I needed, and I worked with Billy (71dsp) to get them. Billy kept a small selection of shims in his gear, and he mailed me the one that I needed (thank God for Billy ). If the shops you talked to don't know about the preload procedure, the bearings will burn up after a few thousand miles.
Correct procedure is in the Helm's manual.
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I have read the helms and it doesn't seem too scary, and anecdotal information suggests that more often than not, the shims do NOT have to be changed.
The shops I got quotes from deal with some pretty high dollar cars/jobs, so I would HOPE they know what they're doing, but I would definitely do my due diligence before putting my parts/money/safety/sanity into the hands of someone else. In the last nine years, I think I've had other people work on my car about 3 times, IIRC, and that was out of necessity.
I've done diff/pinion swaps in rear ends, but have never dove into a trans...yet! Since you've done this, any tricks or tips?
I have read the helms and it doesn't seem too scary, and anecdotal information suggests that more often than not, the shims do NOT have to be changed.
The shops I got quotes from deal with some pretty high dollar cars/jobs, so I would HOPE they know what they're doing, but I would definitely do my due diligence before putting my parts/money/safety/sanity into the hands of someone else. In the last nine years, I think I've had other people work on my car about 3 times, IIRC, and that was out of necessity.
I've done diff/pinion swaps in rear ends, but have never dove into a trans...yet! Since you've done this, any tricks or tips?
I wrote a thread somewhere on how I did my install. My memory of it is: don't do it yourself if you can pay someone to do it for you (unless you are ghetto ). It was a huge pain in the ass.
Plus, I definitely couldn't use my original shim. I had to go like 2-3 thicknesses difference, so I had to get something else. The worst part is that you can't plan ahead for that; you only find out after you crack everything open and measure it all (with the new diff in). If you do this on a daily driver, it actually helps to put a 2nd transmission on your car while you get the correct shims.
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not to tread jack, but anyone have any experience with the phantom grip???
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not to tread jack, but anyone have any experience with the phantom grip???
I have no direct experience. Theoretically, they will help. However, they
have nowhere near the engineering put into them as other LSDs. They are
two pieces of steel stock with some holes machined and a few springs. The
majority of the cost/pain of this upgrade is the install process, so cheaping on
the parts is a bit backwards, to me.
If you are looking to be "thrifty", there are Torsen LSDs that are $400-600.
The phantom grip is already $300 and unorthodox (read: nothing like it is used
in any OEM application I can think of. Quaife (and other torsens, too) is used
in $1+ million dollar race cars in world-class racing.)
If you want to be really ghetto-fabulous, buy the upgraded Phantom Grip
Springs for $30 and make a friend at a machine shop. If you figure out the
dimensions of the plates, you could have it all said and done for under $100.
Hell, be a REAL a-hole and BUY the phantom grip, take measurements, return
it, have one made, buy the springs and you are saving more money!
I suppose the up shot to the Phantom Grip is that you don't have to worry
about shimming the transmission (since the diff is the same.) However,
I think performance will not be where you want it, if compared to a Torsen
or clutch-pack LSD.
Artifex, here's the thread on your trans upgrade (it was easy to find...you
seem to only have started four threads on here, despite your prolific posting.
lol)
Getting the gears coated and/or carbon synchros is tempting...oh, so
tempting. I think I may source a transmission to build. My synchros seem
fine, but the (retarded and fumbling) pursuit of perfection is tempting!
I spent hella money + time on that transmission. In retrospect, the only thing I would do again was the Quaife. The coating was an enormous pain in the ass, and not worth the nightmare of disassembling the entire mainshaft.
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I spent hella money + time on that transmission. In retrospect, the only thing I would do again was the Quaife. The coating was an enormous pain in the ass, and not worth the nightmare of disassembling the entire mainshaft.
This is somewhat off topic, but do you recall if you had to get a different size of carrier bearing for the Quaife? I now have my trans at a pretty reputable transmission shop and they just called to say everything looks good, but they have to order some different bearings. I'm thinking something was lost in translation between the mechanic and the service writer, but we'll see.
I'm already at the point of having spent more money on this than any one thing on any car I've ever owned...including a JDM engine. lol
This is somewhat off topic, but do you recall if you had to get a different size of carrier bearing for the Quaife? I now have my trans at a pretty reputable transmission shop and they just called to say everything looks good, but they have to order some different bearings. I'm thinking something was lost in translation between the mechanic and the service writer, but we'll see.
I'm already at the point of having spent more money on this than any one thing on any car I've ever owned...including a JDM engine. lol
You definitely don't need a different "size" bearing. There is only 1 size. You want to buy the OEM bearing, that's it. You have to buy a new one anyway, because you can't get the old one off without destroying it.
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This sounds like a major pain in the arse! Is the extra money, and effort worth it over JDM LSD (NOT ATTS)?
Just thought I'd mention I've been checking places that sell JDM motors/transmissions. Last I checked the M2B4 could be had for around $800 (I think), just hard to find them in stock...
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). If the shops you talked to don't know about the preload procedure, the bearings will burn up after a few thousand miles.
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