Hello, I posted this on another board, but though some of you might find it interesting . . .
The Accord R (whole car) finally is shipping and should be here in a few weeks. I'm going to use that transmission and keep the engine as a spare. I am building this instead:
H23 VTEC Type S. Should be yummy when I'm done. Setup will be like this:
H22 Type S head, cams, valevtrain, etc
H23 block & crank
H23 crower rods (why can't eagle make H23 rods!?!?)
H22 Type S pistons
~11.5:1 static CR
H23 manual timing tensioner
Prodrive oil pump
Skunk 2 manifold (if it ever comes out)
Hondata ECU, IM gasket
J&S safeguard
Goal: Wheel #s - 200HP / 170 TQ
The block, crank, pistons and rods are all going to the machine shop early next month. I'm going oversize on the pistons. Actually the pistons are at SwainTech now getting Moly coated. The rotating assembly will be balanced, crank micro polished, block bored, honed, and line bored. I'm doing the assembly myself. This way I can make sure it's done right ;-).
So we'll see, I think I have eliminated all of the H23s weak points (rods, etc) so I expect normal life span form the motor, but just in case I'll have the H22 Type S as a back up.
Huh.. sounds like you got everything covered. When are you planning on completing this project? Because I wouldn't be planning on that Skunk mani to be part of your setup if you're thinking about finishing this anytime soon... damn bastards.
Definately let us know when you're done and got a dyno for us
I don't think you'll have too much trouble meeting that goal, as long as you don't skimp on the intake, header, and exhaust.
You may want to search for some posts by the moderator of this forum (Satan_SRV), as he was running a fairly similar setup. I believe he also had that kick-ass tranny, but never got around to using it.
It looks like you are running the stock sleeves with aftermarket pistons (albeit coated pistons), correct? I dunno if anyone has posted actual results from a setup like that, although there has been lots of speculation. Keep us updated.
I bought this in a Japanese salvage auction, It's coming over with my next container:
It's a complete car. I am going to use the transmission, and keep the engine intact as a backup in case the 2.3 VTEC blows. Hopefully that'll never happen, but it's going to be going into my track car wich sees 99% of it's life on the track roadracing (high, constant RPMs) heh heh.
A grand experiment I say.
Everything else besides the swap is for sale off of the Accord Euro R, btw . . . ;-)
Only question/criticism on the build is WHY would you use the Type S cams? Reliable, yes, but you would benefit GREATLY from the use of a Crower Stage 2, Skunk2 Stage 1, or some other, more aggressive cam.
My main criticism is that the Accord Type-R engine already has a single stage intake manifold like the skunk2, type-s cams and 11:1 compression...
It just my opinion but your built motor is 90% the same as the stock Accord Type-R motor, it seems like a waste of money.
Why do you have another type-s head? The Accord-R head is a type-s head, and you get the benefit that the Euro-R/ATR intake manifold mates to that head with no modifications.
At a MINIMUM, I would put the ATR head on your built block. My real recommendation is to use the ATR as is and save yourself the trouble.
hey i dont know if your going to come back here and check this post but i emailed you. Im interested in the rims, caliper, rotors and everything it takes to convert my brakes. My rotors are tiny, the ones from the S model.
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AIM:ISUBIEXI
S/SI/Vtec Hybrid. RS*R Header, JDM downpipe, Custom Downpipe back 2.25 Exhaust, Intake, ""Mugen"" Programmed p13, No balancer belt, no AC, Fidanza Flywheel, ACT clutch, SI trans, Power Slot rotors, SkunkII Coilovers, Enki Rims.
It's going to have the Type S head. It's my understand that it is a lot more than just a simple swap to put the single runner manifold onto the Type S head. That is why I had opted to go with the Sk2 manifold (assuming it ever is released).
I have the complete Type S dual runner manifold with all sensors, etc, but I read a few ATR manifold installs which indicated many modifications were needed. Is this assumption incorrect? Would buying a bare ATR manifold be a 'bolt-on' affair given I already have the Type S head ready to go. I read that the bolt pattern was different. What should I do for an IM gasket?
The engine is being built, parts have already been ordered. The reason why, well that's a long story I won't get into . . .
Did you PM me? I responded to all of them. If not no worries. I will post up a FS post once everything becomes available (It's still 1/2 way around the world . . .)
I don't want to take any deposits or anything untill the goods are ready or near ready to be sold.
Thanks, I'll let you know when they do become available :-)
The first main problem is that the flange has extra metal that gets in the way of the USDM H22a head...the oil passage or something.
Basically I'm saying you have the advantage that you have the ATR head and Manifold attached and all the parts like the fuel rail etc...so it's worth looking into as it would be 'easier' than just trying to use a euro-r manifold on a USDM head.
My reason for not doing this is that if the 2.3 blows up (as they seem to do a lot) I want the Accord R engine intact. I don't want to destroy that head and end up in a jam when I am reverting to the 2.2. Obviously my hope is this will never happen, and maybe at down the road I'll put the Accord R engine into my daily driver H22 civic, but I want an intact backup for the race car just in case.
The car has been down for almost 2 years already. Once I get this going I don't want anymore downtime, know what I mean? :-)
Sorry for bringing this up from the dead, But has anybody noticed that this ATR has a DUAL exhaust?! I thought this was a no-no for an h22. Was I misinformed??
ok ok, hold up ... the ATR engine ...
If you buy an H23A from the Accord SiR wagon .... is this the same engine we're talking about??
Will the ATR engine be a direct bolt in for our cars ?? If so, why wouldn't you keep the atr all together and not worrya bout type-s cams etc. slap on a 5spd w/ LSD and call it a day and just not over rev ? .... since its back from the dead
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