skunklude4ws

ok so heres the dealio
i have a 92 lude 4ws with a 94 h23a completely stock an i want to make the car a dedicated time attack car

i have sumone lined up to make me ITB's, exhaust manifold, roll cage, traction bars, and tune it (prolly gonna use chrome) but im going to build the rest of the motor and car myself

so heres the question

what kind of suspension setup would be the best for time attack? i was thinking skunk2 or tein coilovers

and is there ne crank i can use to stroke out the h23 to possibly a 2.5 litre cuz i would like to keep the torque that i may lose with the ITB's and hopefully gain more or would i have to have one machined? or could i just get different length rods? how much would this raise the compression?

im also planning on biulding the head with skunk2 components an have it port polished an all that jazz

as for the bottom end what would be recommended? i was thinking eagle and/or JE

i no lots of questions but ne info helps!

o an btw if neone knows were to get carbon fiber doors lemme no!

 

Artifex

When you say "time attack" car, are you really going to use it for road racing? Because a lot of the upgrades you are suggesting would be a bad choice for road racing....

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phroze2001

Hmmmm well if you are planning on going N/A you may want to start thinking about swapping in an H22, I hear that the H23 is only good for boosting.

p.s. this thread is not titled H22 VS. H23 so no arguing idiots

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harmonichonda01

either of these two would be fine, just be realistic with yourself, would you be doing any autox at the end of this or drag strips, etc etc if this is just gonna be a weekend warrior or fun drag car with your buddies at some meet save yourself some money here

Alot of this concerns me. Let me be frank with you, i am by far no expert at building engines I myself am just now learning how to take my head off and replacing it with a built one on my 5th gen. That being said, all my research and contacts have really stressed the strength of the h22 block with the FRM sleeves. To put it in perspective frm was also used with the NSX block and surely you know its potential. The h22 has alot of respect with intelligent domestic drivers so it is by no means a joke engine. That being said, stroking your car is gonna require you lowering your rev limiter if you don't get everything else working in tandem. That's about all I can speak with authority on as far as blocks go, but I think somebody mentioned going with a stock h22 stroke since you obviously are interesting in an all engine bulid.

The work being done to your head...who is milling it for you? A guy on another forum told me very bluntly to spend ridiculous money on a good head job especially when it comes to milling because you want an insanely perfect job to keep it all reliable and keep clearance issues out of the picture.

To me it really sounds like you got alot ahead of you and I strongly advise you spending more time researching before you purchase anything for the build you are proposing here. However, I think most will agree that the way you asked your questions and stated your intent was much more professional than the majority of forum users so I thank you for that, hope I helped a bit in pushing you in a promising direction.

skunklude4ws

well by time attack i mean that i will be using it for short courses with lots of turns like autocross possibly doing some raod racing liek road america and definently not drag racing but as of right now not to much more this car will be more of a fun but fast hobby/race car

hopefully i can keep it pretty clean possibly pick up a sponsor or two down the road but we all no how well that goes...

so if nething doesnt sound good for what im plannin to do give me ur input on what would be better to do cuz im still learning too this is the first "race car" i will have biult an i do plan to spend a considerable amount of money especially on the head who btw i am still searching for sumone to do the milling but i do plan on having it done

suspension wise i would like fully adjustable coilovers and camber plates so hopefully that would make it a lil more versatile


other than that as far as a motor swap i was actually looking at the jdm h23vtec (type r accord motor) possibly biulding the bottom end but for the shorter courses i dont really need a huge amount of power but i would like a strong reliable motor and as far an stroking it i understand that there would be considerable amounts of wear so that may go out the window and keep the stock stroke

the other thing is i would like to keep it simple as possible the lass parts and systems the better so if i have to go vtec i will but if i can stay away from it i will

if neone has ne suggestions on ways for saving money or ways to maybe make it more versatile so i could use it for both raod racing and autocross lemme no!

thanks alot for the info so far ne info always helps!!

p.s. this car will probably never be street legal again so nething is possibly no mods or work is to much unless i go flat broke

skunklude4ws

how difficult would an h22 swap be into a 92 lude? does the 4ws make any differnce with swapping motors? i no it has its own control box an all but i like to be sure before i go an try sumthin

and i really do want to keep it n/a because i am way more concerned about throttle response iv seen way to many boosted cars get really slow through autocross courses because they cant biuld boost quick enough

i did look through superchargers since they have good throttle response but thats jus too expensive for me

harmonichonda01

its much cheaper than n/a building I can assure you that.
So far my head alone has been
400-extra core
550-custom cams
500-custom valvetrain
400-milling
1500-portnpolish and portmatch to custom intake and exhaust
200-gaskets and new bolts
100-head studs
250-sprockets
50-replacement seals

custom header i got at discount just cuse same fabricator has been working with me the past year

so 650-header
300 custom IM top
200-huge port on IM runners
300-custom TB
100-new map & TPS
200-parts for my self designed pipe and fittings

just to put some #s in perspective with ya dont want you to get in over your head, save up

Notice no work to block, but to put that in perspective for ya, a good sleeve job, honing and boring work easily 1500-2500 with a good shop, lets say .25 over bored pistons anywhere from 200-800 depending on brand add in rings and rods another 400-1000.

Then go add in charge per hour if you aint gonna do that yourself, luckily a friend of my dad is helping me and allowing me access to his dyno and garage for 1000.

It aint cheap and you still have to factor in a tuning source and i'd recommend tranny upgrades and a new radiator so by the end of it you're talking an additional 1000-4000 for those components!

Maybe the JRSC kit would be better for you if those #s scare you now

skunklude4ws

yes yes i no its expensive but i will df not have as many custom parts as u will and the ones that i no im gettin custom for right now are not as expensive as what u got them for

plus i wont have intake maniold and throttle body itll be ITB's which im getting for relatively cheap about 500-600 bucks custom using r1 throttle bodies ;-)) made plus exhaust manifold i can get for around 200 bucks

so thats 800 bucks where u spent about 2000 cams and valvetrain are definently expensive were did u get urs? an how r they workin out for ya?

and ur head added up to about 4k which is about how much i was plannin to spend neway

then before u started in on the block with everything that u told me added up to about 5500 bucks
so far iif i spend just as much as u on the head minus what im doing for ITB's iv spent about only about 4000 -4500 bucks

the block i was planning on spending about 4k on also

as far as the honing and boring of the block and resleeving i can do myself i already have a shop lined up for that so that would only cost me a couple hundred bucks if that so i would only need to buy the sleeves which still leaves me about 3000 bucks for the rest of the bottom end not a sure number but estimated

so now we have tranny about 500 for clutch kit bout 300 for flywheel and keeping the same gearing noting to insane in there unless i have to better axles would prolly run me a couple hundred bucks too

and tuning i havent gotten priced out yet since that will be a loooong ways away since i am planning to do this over a good amount of time so its at least moderately affordable but can be just about nething depending on the amount of time spent on the dyno and tuning

and this doesnt even include costs of fluids and maintenance

so yes i no what im getting into and im definently prepared to do sumthing i luv to do and if neone thinks im stupid for doing so or tries to "scare" me out of it for some reason can jus keep it to urselves cuz unless ur gonna help me then ur going to be ignored



thanks! :-)

Artifex

You aren't going to like this answer, but it's the truth:

If you are serious about competing in Auto-X and Road Racing, take every dollar you would spend on building the car and spend it on driving school. I know an accomplished racer on another forum who tells people to spend 2x the amount of money on driving time than you do on the car....

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skunklude4ws

nah thats a good answer id luv to do driving school above nething and i hopefully will at some point cuz i definently have alot to learn when it comes to racing but until i actually have the car built which i would think will take at least 2 years to make it a bit more affordable then i prolly wouldnt id jus keep it fun an do parkinglot autox in a streetcar haha

but thanks for the advice an i do know that neone can biuld a fast car but it wont mean jack shi* unless u can drive it

i no a guy up here who had a 900+ hp to all wheels evo8 biult by ams (hes a rich ***** daddie pays for eveything) an he only ran a 10 in it the ams driver hoped in a ran on his first runand ran like a real low 9 or a high 8 i cant remember but it was quite the difference an iv seen some pretty crappy cars beat out some decent cars cuz of the drivers too

i run parking lot autox in the lude right now jus for the hell of its got saggy stock springs an bald crap tires and i still beat out a turbo civic with tein coilovers an a crx with 8200$ into suspension although the crx was a d15 automatic so i dunno if it really sumthin to brag about haha

harmonichonda01

meh that kinda power would require me losing street legality, not interested in that much in my lude, +1 on the school artifex, if you live near CO, Faasst performance has awesome courses and instructors thats the only school ive been to in my short time spent in Colorado Springs but even a lil sticks with you

skunklude4ws

ok well this thread is getting a little long and starting to stray away from its original purpose lol so im gonna start a new thread called "biulding a race lude"

Artifex

Honestly, I think you need to review all the existing info we have. Please spend time reading this:
N/A Performance Library (README!)

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Ken

I am no longer an active member of the moderation team. Please contact another mod if you need help with anything.
2000 Base Prelude RIP
Pics of Jessica Alba naked!